Seeking Advice: Clean Up Bolt Threads
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Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,628
From: California
Seeking Advice: Clean Up Bolt Threads
The last time I rotated my tires, I must have damaged the threads on one of the wheel studs. I was able to get the nut back on the bolt, but I could tell things were not right.
What's the best way to clean up the threads on a wheel stud?
1) I don't want to cut new threads. I just want to clean up the existing threads.
2) I've never used a tap and die set or tried anything like this before (that I can remember), so feel free to explain what I have to do in the simplest, most basic terms.
Thanks.
What's the best way to clean up the threads on a wheel stud?
1) I don't want to cut new threads. I just want to clean up the existing threads.
2) I've never used a tap and die set or tried anything like this before (that I can remember), so feel free to explain what I have to do in the simplest, most basic terms.
Thanks.
Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,325
From: Metro Atlanta, Georgia
What you're looking for is a thread chaser, right? cheapest recommendation I got is threading on a nut of appropriate size, but grade 10.9, and thread that on after hand-starting it. the harder metal of the nut would right the threads of the stud.
I did a quick search and I think the size is m12x1.5, but it would be good to double-check
If you wanted to get a tool for the job, this guy should work It would require a 1" socket. I'm sure there are other options out there too
Edit: one of the cool things about the 2-piece thread chaser I linked is.. if you had a stud/bolt that was botched at the tip but not the base, you could install this on the good threads by the base, then back it off with a ratchet to true up the threads at the tip. I think that would address your needs exactly based on my understanding of them.
The above seems to be a popular choice specifically for wheel studs.
I did a quick search and I think the size is m12x1.5, but it would be good to double-check
If you wanted to get a tool for the job, this guy should work It would require a 1" socket. I'm sure there are other options out there too
Edit: one of the cool things about the 2-piece thread chaser I linked is.. if you had a stud/bolt that was botched at the tip but not the base, you could install this on the good threads by the base, then back it off with a ratchet to true up the threads at the tip. I think that would address your needs exactly based on my understanding of them.
The above seems to be a popular choice specifically for wheel studs.
Last edited by Pyts; Feb 3, 2024 at 09:44 AM.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,628
From: California
@NWCH Thanks for the post (but that link didn't work for me). In any case, I watched a bunch of YouTube videos yesterday. They were helpful.
@Pyts "Thread Chaser" is the phrase that I was trying to think of yesterday. I think I might even have one at the bottom of one of my tool boxes. So, you just thread the thread chaser on and crank away, or are there any cautions? I have a tendency to overdo things . . .
@Pyts "Thread Chaser" is the phrase that I was trying to think of yesterday. I think I might even have one at the bottom of one of my tool boxes. So, you just thread the thread chaser on and crank away, or are there any cautions? I have a tendency to overdo things . . .
Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,325
From: Metro Atlanta, Georgia
Some important things to note: It has to be the right size and pitch, and it has to be threaded carefully. When you get a chaser, test it on an undamaged stud first to make sure it threads on without causing damage.
Since the concept is using a harder metal to true a softer one, there is potential to render a fastener unusable/destroyed if the above isn't managed. All the more with an actual chaser, which will have notches in its teeth to facilitate cutting and clearing of debris/obstruction.
If you're threading the chaser on at the tip like a normal nut you'll want to make sure to stop when you bottom out, or even a little before. If you tighten it down to the base of the stud and keep going, you'll start shredding the stud to spin the chaser in place.
There will also be some noteworthy resistance. It can be hard to tell when you're putting in a good deal of force, whether you're truing the fastener or shearing it off. It's good practice to stop and inspect as you go. 1/4" - 1/2" of chasing, then back it off and clean it out
Besides that, you can splash some oil on the stud/chaser to help with binding and debris removal. Any oil should do since the work isn't high-speed. Overheating isn't a factor.
Since the concept is using a harder metal to true a softer one, there is potential to render a fastener unusable/destroyed if the above isn't managed. All the more with an actual chaser, which will have notches in its teeth to facilitate cutting and clearing of debris/obstruction.
If you're threading the chaser on at the tip like a normal nut you'll want to make sure to stop when you bottom out, or even a little before. If you tighten it down to the base of the stud and keep going, you'll start shredding the stud to spin the chaser in place.
There will also be some noteworthy resistance. It can be hard to tell when you're putting in a good deal of force, whether you're truing the fastener or shearing it off. It's good practice to stop and inspect as you go. 1/4" - 1/2" of chasing, then back it off and clean it out
Besides that, you can splash some oil on the stud/chaser to help with binding and debris removal. Any oil should do since the work isn't high-speed. Overheating isn't a factor.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,628
From: California
Some important things to note: It has to be the right size and pitch, and it has to be threaded carefully. When you get a chaser, test it on an undamaged stud first to make sure it threads on without causing damage.
Since the concept is using a harder metal to true a softer one, there is potential to render a fastener unusable/destroyed if the above isn't managed. All the more with an actual chaser, which will have notches in its teeth to facilitate cutting and clearing of debris/obstruction.
If you're threading the chaser on at the tip like a normal nut you'll want to make sure to stop when you bottom out, or even a little before. If you tighten it down to the base of the stud and keep going, you'll start shredding the stud to spin the chaser in place.
There will also be some noteworthy resistance. It can be hard to tell when you're putting in a good deal of force, whether you're truing the fastener or shearing it off. It's good practice to stop and inspect as you go. 1/4" - 1/2" of chasing, then back it off and clean it out
Besides that, you can splash some oil on the stud/chaser to help with binding and debris removal. Any oil should do since the work isn't high-speed. Overheating isn't a factor.
Since the concept is using a harder metal to true a softer one, there is potential to render a fastener unusable/destroyed if the above isn't managed. All the more with an actual chaser, which will have notches in its teeth to facilitate cutting and clearing of debris/obstruction.
If you're threading the chaser on at the tip like a normal nut you'll want to make sure to stop when you bottom out, or even a little before. If you tighten it down to the base of the stud and keep going, you'll start shredding the stud to spin the chaser in place.
There will also be some noteworthy resistance. It can be hard to tell when you're putting in a good deal of force, whether you're truing the fastener or shearing it off. It's good practice to stop and inspect as you go. 1/4" - 1/2" of chasing, then back it off and clean it out
Besides that, you can splash some oil on the stud/chaser to help with binding and debris removal. Any oil should do since the work isn't high-speed. Overheating isn't a factor.
Thanks, @Pyts I really appreciate this thoughtful reply. Do you think it would be better to use a tap and die set instead of a thread chaser?
Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,325
From: Metro Atlanta, Georgia
No worries, sir. A tap and die kit would provide the same service so long as the size is right. Might be a little easier to botch with one of those though. Since they're made to cut threads for the first time.. A little bit of a lean working with that funny twin-grip handle and you're in trouble. But if you're careful it should do.
For myself, I think I'd sooner use a hard nut than a tap and risk being too gentle. But if I only had the tap and die kit on hand I might try it gingerly.
You may report back that it was a piece of cake though! I havent touched a tap in a hot minute.
For myself, I think I'd sooner use a hard nut than a tap and risk being too gentle. But if I only had the tap and die kit on hand I might try it gingerly.
You may report back that it was a piece of cake though! I havent touched a tap in a hot minute.
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