Originally Posted by Drew21

If you have trouble rotating an axle with the brake caliper removed, you have eliminated the brakes from consideration. That's not to say that your brakes are perfect or that you shouldn't replace your rotors if they're unevenly worn (inside vs outside) or have a lip, but they're not causing your larger issues. Switching your brake pads isn't going to solve anything here.

In your first video the popping/cracking noise sounded like CV joints to me. That's why I asked if you hear the noise when turning (common when CVs start to go bad) or all the time. I suspect you have passed the "starting to go bad" stage a long time ago and are now living in the "bad and ready to disintegrate" stage. The clicking you hear on both sides is most likely worn out CV joints, but could also be slop (= wear) in the differential I suppose.

If you really want to diagnose the problem, you can use large vice grips or a pipe wrench (plus an assistant) to isolate each CV joint. Use the vice grips or pipe wrench to secure the axle (between the inner and outer CV joint) so it can't move and then try to rotate the hub like you did in the video. If you have movement and clicking, your outer CV joint is gone. Then use the vice grips or pipe wrench to rotate the axle back and forth and see if you get movement or clicking in the inner CV joints. An easier alternative if you've reinstalled the brake calipers and pads is to have someone step on the brakes to lock the axles. Then grab your axle between the inner and outer CV joints with your vice grip or pipe wrench and attempt to rotate it back and forth. If it rotates and makes noise one or both CV joints are bad.

Edit: I just watched your third video which again points to CV joint problems. You really don't want them to come apart while you're driving (around the yard would be inconvenient, on the highway would be very bad), so I would again suggest parking the car until you figure out and fix whatever problems you're having.

Originally Posted by Drew21

160K miles of steady-speed cruising on the highway is very different from 160K miles of hard acceleration/deceleration, potholes, gravel roads, etc. Parts wear (out) much faster on a car that's beaten on than on a car that lives an easy life.

I think you're at the point where it's worth consulting a real mechanic. My dad is a mechanic so I have medium knowledge about lots of automobile issues, but not enough to fully diagnose over the internet.

With that caveat, CV joint damage seems more likely than transmission damage and it fits the noises your car is making and the play in the axles you had in your second video when rotating the hubs.

How hard is it to replace the axles? Depends on what you're comfortable with and what tools you have. I would recommend watching a couple Youtube videos to determine if it's something you want to tackle.

Originally Posted by 56chevydan

In your last video, I see what looks like your brake caliper resting on top of the hub and pushing the brake backing plate against the rotor. The backing plate also looks distorted and possibly worn away from what I could see in the video. I'd start by making sure the backing plate is free of touching the rotor- use a pry bar or large flat bladed screwdriver, if needed, to make clearance between the backing plate and the rotor. While you have the wheels off the ground, reach behind the backing plate and grab the axle in the middle and move it up and down and front to back to determine if there's any play or movement in the axle. There should not be any movement in it. If you find movement or clunking in the axle- it is bad and needs to be replaced.

Originally Posted by Kenword

I know I'm a little late to this party, but decided to add a little advice. I've driven front wheel drive cars since the early '80's, and the most common repairs I've done are wheel bearings and CV joints. Wheel bearings are all now 'maintenance free' and sealed, so you can't do anything with them until they get noisy, then you replace them. Some only last 50,000 miles or less, others may go over 100,000. The usual sign of failure is a howling noise that changes as you steer the car left, and right, and back again. In my experience, CV joints usually do not cause trouble unless the rubber boots covering them crack or are damaged, allowing water and dirt in and grease out. It's good to inspect the boots whenever you're under the car and especially if you see grease has leaked out. Drew 21 is correct that they can make a clicking sound when worn, especially if you make a sharp turn. There are kits to replace the boots and it has saved me money in the past, but with axles only $50, you may as well get the whole axle and be done with it. I believe the grease is different colors because different kinds are used in the inner and outer joints. And yes, the outer joint is usually locked together somehow. It may be a press fit or have a locking ring somewhere. An important thing here is to buy quality parts. I heard years ago that there are cheap Chinese made axles that are poorly balanced and cause vibration issues. You're probably fine with what you got from Rock Auto. Another tip is anytime you take front suspension apart it can affect wheel alignment so it's good to get it checked. Looks like you're on the right track and doing well.

Originally Posted by Drew21

Did you figure out what caused the "slop" in both axles in your second video?

Originally Posted by 56chevydan

It appears that one side of your pass side axle has contaminated grease in it. Unless someone had that axle apart in the past and used different grease to re-pack the cv joint on one side- which doesn't make sense,, the grease in both sides should be the same color..

Considering the relatively inexpensive cost of axles, the fact you have 160,000 miles on the originals, the cost of an alignment when you've put the car back together, and the need to, at a bare minimum, totally clean and re-grease the cv joints and install new boots on both ends of both axles , it would, in my opinion, be a good investment to install both rebuilt axles you ordered.

The one axle that is two piece includes the fixed sub axle that compensates for one axle being longer because of the placement of the engine and trans in your car.. Front wheel drive cars have an engine on one side and the trans is mated to the back of it on the other side. One axle is naturally longer to make up the distance from the hub to where it goes into the trans. Good luck- I hope you get it back together soon.