Hey Guys.....

Just had this issue come up. It's a 2013 Fit, approx 160,000 miles.

Just changed the front pads (cause I thought they'd gone to metal cause of some similar noise....but they still had some meat on them), and nothing is loose far as I can tell.

I've driven it maybe 100 miles since then, fwiw.

After I've been in reverse and then go into drive, there's some serious grinding coming from the front. I think from the front right area.

When it happens the car acts as if the brakes are on a little.......the right side seems to be locking up or something.

But then after I drive it for maybe 10-20 feet, it stops, and the car drives normally.

There is a slight noise while I'm driving.....like a low pitched hum or something.

I jacked up the entire front of the car...and put it in neutral..and am able to spin the left wheel...but not the right........is that normal....some kind of anti slip thing?

I made a video to help explain it:


Any ideas?

Z

 

Your right front brake is probably sticking. You'll probably need to lube the slide pins.

 

Thank you so much!.......was worried it was something in the trans/cv joint.....

I just took the pads out and re-lubed the ends........it's still doing it......could it be the caliper itself?

Edit: OH.....you mean the pins...........let me check/lube those......

Z

 

OK.....just did both sides.......Pins had good grease on them and weren't binding....added some anyway

Lubed top and bottom of pads

When I backed out it was still doing it.

Starting to think it may be the pads......got these new ceramic ones that said 'copper free'.......Maybe she LIKES copper.......lol

Otherwise I guess the caliper pistons are sticking?

Z

 

Does the noise only occur when you're turning as in the video? Does it occur every time you back up? Every time you go forward immediately after backing up?

I have had a front caliper lock/seize on my Fit but it didn't sound like your noise. Just a light whirring from the inner pad dragging and definitely no cracks or pops.

Did you flush and bleed the brakes, either with the pad change or recently?

I would do a quick check to make sure that all hardware (caliper and caliper bracket bolts) are properly torqued to eliminate that potential issue.

 

Seems to happen whenever I back up....puts a different force on the caliper and seems to lock it.....then when I go forward it eventually releases.

All hardware is correct. Bolts tight. Pads lubed. Pins lubed.

Pretty sure it's the caliper piston seizing...........will take it apart today and look at it.....

Also the type of pad is probably an issue.........no copper.......copper is a lubricant.....so that's why they are grabbing so hard.

Does it when she's cold. Don't really have that issue after I've been driving awhile. i.e. backing up and going forward.

Z

 

I don't think there is any sort of brake pads that have lubricating properties. That would defeat the purpose of brake pads.

If you're confident that it's the brakes then a sticky caliper piston does seem like the most likely culprit. I disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled mine and to be honest it was a battle (especially getting the new seals correctly seated and in place). It might be worth buying new or rebuilt calipers if you can confirm that's the problem. Rockauto has new calipers for <$70 each.

 

Thank you Drew..........By lubricating, I mean copper is soft, so little chunks of it in the pad makes metal to metal contact not as 'grabby'......but smoother.......seems to me anyway......because now those pads really GRAB to make that noise.....

I think I will get a new caliper...at least for the front right..considering you went through a 'battle'........

Meanwhile, I just won't go into reverse when she's cold.......lol

Z

 

One final thing to consider regarding brakes: If you change the rotors and pads, or just get new pads, it's recommended that you "bed" the brakes. You can read or watch videos about this, but basically you do a number of repeated hard stops to transfer brake pad material onto the rotor, which makes the brakes function better.

It sounds like you didn't change your rotors. Did you inspect them to make sure they're in good condition (e.g., not warped, same thickness on each side)? I'm still not understanding why the noise you're getting is a series of "pops" or "cracks" rather than the prolonged grinding or squeaking that you might expect with a stuck caliper.

I did the brakes on my wife's car last summer. The outside of the rear rotors looked fine and had no lip, so I didn't order new rotors. When I went to install the pads I realized that the inside of both rear rotors looked like the surface of the moon. Badly rusted and pitted and would have ruined the new pads very quickly. So, had to order the rotors after all and pay for more shipping. I don't think rust is as much of an issue in desert CA as it is in salty New England, but it's worth your consideration.

 

I've never turned, or bought new rotors/drums in my life..........I figure the new pads wear in to match the rotor/drum.......I will scuff them to remove glaze.....

I think it's the pads.....they're some kind of new crap I think......'Copper free'.....sounds woke ......lol......expensive as hell though...I always buy the most expensive ones....cause I want them to last as long as possible.

I like to drive through puddles at speed......had some mud on the road here....maybe that caused something.......never did before though.

I'll try that panic stop thing to 'bed' them.

I put new shoes on the rear awhile back.....and they're taking a hell of a long time to start working.....been using the emergency brake hard to get some wear on them.....taking a long time....never did turn those drums......maybe need to......but never had to b4.............sigh.......

Guy one time said about a noise........keep driving......you'll find out eventually what it is.......lol

Z

 

Btw.....here's the Pads: Duralast Elite.....has some kind of 'transfer' crap that's supposed to coat the rotors....I say it's BS.....probably why they are so 'grabby'...........

Just read a review on them........they're for luxury sedans.......shit.......says as long as you go with the flow and don't brake too hard they're fine....

Crap........I drive like a Freak.....and brake HARD lots of times....SO.....gonna try to return these......

Z

 

You can get away with old rotors for a while, but at some point you're going to run into problems. When you brake the rotors wear away the pads, but the pads also wear away the rotor (to a lesser extent). If you're running new pads on a brake rotor with a major lip, it wouldn't surprise me that you're having odd noises and brake performance.

Think of it this way. I wear size 10 shoes. When I'm visiting my parents I sometimes slip on my dad's size 14s to run to the mailbox. I can also cram my feet into my sister's size 7.5s. Neither works well and both will cause problems for my feet.

With the rear drums, have you tried adjusting the star wheels? I always adjust with the wheels off and get them to the point where there's a minor but noticeable amount of drag when turning the drum by hand.

There's nothing wrong with the pads you bought. I have ceramic pads on my Fit and on my wife's Nissan Leaf. You generally go with ceramic (and often pay a bit more) for reduced dust, better performance, and long lifespan. If you drive like you're in a Fast and Furious movie you're going to be changing brake components, including pads, rotors, and maybe even rear shoes and drums more often than a more relaxed driver.

 

Ok......I think this is a lot more serious than just brake pads.....

Just drove it to exchange those pads and she's making Major noises now........grinding.....chirping......etc.

Jacked her up and the right side wheel goes back and forth a bit....the left one turns smoothly.....

Gonna make a video of it all........didn't get a video of the noises while driving though.

SO....what is it.........CV joint?......Transmission?.......at a loss here now.......

I did get a new set of the Duralast Gold pads I had b4.......will install them, but I don't think that's it.........sigh

Z

 

This seems like an obvious suggestion, but you might want to stop driving until you get this figured out.

 

Here's a video showing more details:


Z

 

I'd like to..stop driving her that is....lol..........but wanted to get those other brake pads to eliminate at least one thing.......

Checked prices on CV axles at Rock Auto......damn......they're cheap.........like $50........

Z

 

If you're like me, at about this point I admitted with some frustration that I hate brake work and am also not good at it. I'm sort of a jack of all trades kind of guy so not being able to diy something properly was super irritating. To me.

I paid my local mechanic $425 or so to fully replace the front brake and rotors. Now they work. I don't like paying them any more than I do the dealer, but they're honest. Refused to change any rear brake components because "we took it apart and there's no wear, not going to waste your money".

I concur that the rotors wear worse on the insides, and putting new pads on old rotors I always had grinding and in one case some mild sticking. A sticking caliper or slider will also run one rotor hot, but it won't necessarily cause pulling to one side (I don't know why not)

I had hoped to keep the car for another 20k miles or so but looks like we will be getting rid of it after the spring gardening season is over.

 

After Pad Change.......Here's the noises:


Z

 

Changing Brake Pads is pretty simple.........probably the easiest job next to changing a tire.....

Rotors are more involved, but still a very easy job....just 2 screws that you need to remove......probably need one of those hammer driven screw looseners.....about $10 maybe.....but again, a pretty simple job........

Z

 

If you have trouble rotating an axle with the brake caliper removed, you have eliminated the brakes from consideration. That's not to say that your brakes are perfect or that you shouldn't replace your rotors if they're unevenly worn (inside vs outside) or have a lip, but they're not causing your larger issues. Switching your brake pads isn't going to solve anything here.

In your first video the popping/cracking noise sounded like CV joints to me. That's why I asked if you hear the noise when turning (common when CVs start to go bad) or all the time. I suspect you have passed the "starting to go bad" stage a long time ago and are now living in the "bad and ready to disintegrate" stage. The clicking you hear on both sides is most likely worn out CV joints, but could also be slop (= wear) in the differential I suppose.

If you really want to diagnose the problem, you can use large vice grips or a pipe wrench (plus an assistant) to isolate each CV joint. Use the vice grips or pipe wrench to secure the axle (between the inner and outer CV joint) so it can't move and then try to rotate the hub like you did in the video. If you have movement and clicking, your outer CV joint is gone. Then use the vice grips or pipe wrench to rotate the axle back and forth and see if you get movement or clicking in the inner CV joints. An easier alternative if you've reinstalled the brake calipers and pads is to have someone step on the brakes to lock the axles. Then grab your axle between the inner and outer CV joints with your vice grip or pipe wrench and attempt to rotate it back and forth. If it rotates and makes noise one or both CV joints are bad.

Edit: I just watched your third video which again points to CV joint problems. You really don't want them to come apart while you're driving (around the yard would be inconvenient, on the highway would be very bad), so I would again suggest parking the car until you figure out and fix whatever problems you're having.