Wired misfires HELP
Wired misfires HELP
I am having wires misfired or at least what I think are misfires. I replaced the spark plugs kinda recently. And I guess I did just fill up on gas so maybe water in the gas idk
Lot of questions:
what spark plugs (should be IZFR6K13 NGK)
what spark gap (1.3 mm or 0.047 to 0.051 inches with the above)
what torque (16 to 20 ft-lbs)
what mileage
bad ignition coils (are they stock Hitachi)?
Air flow? Did you mess with the air filter? Is it clean and is the air box?
what spark plugs (should be IZFR6K13 NGK)
what spark gap (1.3 mm or 0.047 to 0.051 inches with the above)
what torque (16 to 20 ft-lbs)
what mileage
bad ignition coils (are they stock Hitachi)?
Air flow? Did you mess with the air filter? Is it clean and is the air box?
Lot of questions:
what spark plugs (should be IZFR6K13 NGK)
what spark gap (1.3 mm or 0.047 to 0.051 inches with the above)
what torque (16 to 20 ft-lbs)
what mileage
bad ignition coils (are they stock Hitachi)?
Air flow? Did you mess with the air filter? Is it clean and is the air box?
what spark plugs (should be IZFR6K13 NGK)
what spark gap (1.3 mm or 0.047 to 0.051 inches with the above)
what torque (16 to 20 ft-lbs)
what mileage
bad ignition coils (are they stock Hitachi)?
Air flow? Did you mess with the air filter? Is it clean and is the air box?
I did plugs and coils about 20,000 miles ago and they are not NGK and Hitachi due to the argent need to get back on the road so couldn’t wait for the parts I needed. But when I had the problem in the past my check engine light came on and was flashing so I can almost rule that out. It’s not consistently the same cylinder so I don’t think it can be that. I have an intake but it isn’t wet and it has a dri bag over it so it couldn’t be that.
the only other thing I could think of is fuel pump or contaminated gas. I drove my car on E E and then got gas and about a mile later I had one hiccup. And now it brakes up only under harder acceleration it idles fine and will even rev out to 5000 in first no problem.
I did plugs and coils about 20,000 miles ago and they are not NGK and Hitachi due to the argent need to get back on the road so couldn’t wait for the parts I needed. But when I had the problem in the past my check engine light came on and was flashing so I can almost rule that out. It’s not consistently the same cylinder so I don’t think it can be that. I have an intake but it isn’t wet and it has a dri bag over it so it couldn’t be that.
the only other thing I could think of is fuel pump or contaminated gas. I drove my car on E E and then got gas and about a mile later I had one hiccup. And now it brakes up only under harder acceleration it idles fine and will even rev out to 5000 in first no problem.
the only other thing I could think of is fuel pump or contaminated gas. I drove my car on E E and then got gas and about a mile later I had one hiccup. And now it brakes up only under harder acceleration it idles fine and will even rev out to 5000 in first no problem.
Test your fuel injectors, you could have one starting to go bad which will eventually dead short and fry your the mosfets in your engine ecm. Here is how you can test them to see if they are good or bad.
With the injectors unplugged you should have around 10.3ohms of resistance on the injectors themselves. If your injectors read out of this margin by more than .2-.3 you have a bad injector. The bad news is if your injector is bad so is your ecu, the good news is its repairable. Every injector you swapped into that circuit will also likely be bad or will fail soon and fry the ecu power mosfets.
The injector clips should read 7.3v with key on engine off. More or less means the ecu is bad and the Mosfets need to be replaced the Mosfets themselves are cheap SSD103 is the number of them.
With the injectors unplugged you should have around 10.3ohms of resistance on the injectors themselves. If your injectors read out of this margin by more than .2-.3 you have a bad injector. The bad news is if your injector is bad so is your ecu, the good news is its repairable. Every injector you swapped into that circuit will also likely be bad or will fail soon and fry the ecu power mosfets.
The injector clips should read 7.3v with key on engine off. More or less means the ecu is bad and the Mosfets need to be replaced the Mosfets themselves are cheap SSD103 is the number of them.
Test your fuel injectors, you could have one starting to go bad which will eventually dead short and fry your the mosfets in your engine ecm. Here is how you can test them to see if they are good or bad.
With the injectors unplugged you should have around 10.3ohms of resistance on the injectors themselves. If your injectors read out of this margin by more than .2-.3 you have a bad injector. The bad news is if your injector is bad so is your ecu, the good news is its repairable. Every injector you swapped into that circuit will also likely be bad or will fail soon and fry the ecu power mosfets.
The injector clips should read 7.3v with key on engine off. More or less means the ecu is bad and the Mosfets need to be replaced the Mosfets themselves are cheap SSD103 is the number of them.
With the injectors unplugged you should have around 10.3ohms of resistance on the injectors themselves. If your injectors read out of this margin by more than .2-.3 you have a bad injector. The bad news is if your injector is bad so is your ecu, the good news is its repairable. Every injector you swapped into that circuit will also likely be bad or will fail soon and fry the ecu power mosfets.
The injector clips should read 7.3v with key on engine off. More or less means the ecu is bad and the Mosfets need to be replaced the Mosfets themselves are cheap SSD103 is the number of them.
no the injectors are at the front on the intake manifold, they are somewhat tricky to get at but can all be tested on the car by nothing more than removing the injector clips.
The first thing I replaced was the fuel pump, but it seamed to have no effect to the problem. So now I have the awesome decision if I want to remove the one I just put in and go back to the original or not. the new one is much louder then the original. The second thing I checked was for louse spark pugs because I have seen that that can be common in the L15A engine. After fighting with the sub par parts I got from auto zone and all 4 coils came out in 3 different parts. I finally got to the pugs. the middle two were not hand tight but they were close to it. after some inspection plug one had some unburnt carbon on it. this lead me to believe that that was the problem cylinder. I then cleaned all 4 plug seats just incase they had some carbon build up. I then put the plugs back in and tightened then ever so slightly more then I would normally. After fighting with the coils and cracking one of the plastic lower parts I looked to see if I still had the ones I replaced. luckily I still had three of the 4 and two of them were the OEM Hitachi. So the two with the most damage from the mess that was removing the coils got rereplaced with the OEM coils. I plan to do this properly with the NGK plugs and Hitachi coils soon but for the moment I just wanted to make sure this was indeed my problem. Once everything was buttoned back up I want for a test drive and everything was back to normal. and running even better then before. So thanks for the help and cant wait to do this replacement for real with good parts.
The first thing I replaced was the fuel pump, but it seamed to have no effect to the problem. So now I have the awesome decision if I want to remove the one I just put in and go back to the original or not. the new one is much louder then the original. The second thing I checked was for louse spark pugs because I have seen that that can be common in the L15A engine. After fighting with the sub par parts I got from auto zone and all 4 coils came out in 3 different parts. I finally got to the pugs. the middle two were not hand tight but they were close to it. after some inspection plug one had some unburnt carbon on it. this lead me to believe that that was the problem cylinder. I then cleaned all 4 plug seats just incase they had some carbon build up. I then put the plugs back in and tightened then ever so slightly more then I would normally. After fighting with the coils and cracking one of the plastic lower parts I looked to see if I still had the ones I replaced. luckily I still had three of the 4 and two of them were the OEM Hitachi. So the two with the most damage from the mess that was removing the coils got rereplaced with the OEM coils. I plan to do this properly with the NGK plugs and Hitachi coils soon but for the moment I just wanted to make sure this was indeed my problem. Once everything was buttoned back up I want for a test drive and everything was back to normal. and running even better then before. So thanks for the help and cant wait to do this replacement for real with good parts.
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kelsodeez
Fit DIY: Repair & Maintenance
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Dec 17, 2008 12:56 AM



