2011 Fit Base Auto @ 130k+. Mother in law's car which I maintain but I'm out of state so can't perform any failures immediately. So ideally I address maintenance and common failure items in advance of failure.

Work already done

• 120k valve adjust, ATF drain+fill, brake fluid flush, spark plugs (~20ftlbs torque - checked 3x for tightness over last 10k miles)
• 12v battery new this year
• Other common maintenance items all up to date (oil/air filter, brake pads/shoes thickness, tires etc)

Recent Problem

A couple non starts after 3+ days of no driving (already new battery). Battery+Alternator check (12.5v engine off, start engine 12v then jump to 14.5v, high electrical load (AC max fan, defroster, headlight, radio) 14.5v) so alternator looks good unless it has some random failure. Problem was dome light. Was left in on position but no light until some wiggling. Bulb is flaky and dome light switch is known requiring reconditioning.

Will be testing and checking the common Honda parasitic drain areas : AC clutch relay, backup/MICU fuse (interior #1), anything other common area?

Any other common areas at 130k+?

• Looks like Honda AC clutch relay is another failure. Got a pair of relays for backup.
• I read people encounter alternator failures often @ 150k ish so perhaps this is a preventive replacement item soon? Was going to go with either OEM Mitsubishi new or high quality OEM rebuild (high quality bearings, Mitsubishi regulator)
• Any common water pump failure between 130-200k?
• Any other area at these miles? Fuel pump? O2?

 

My alternator started to humm at about 120k miles. Repacked the bearings inside and works good now. I would be concerned about the alternator at your mileage. Best of luck, Clay

 

Thanks. I'll probably replace with high quality rebuild soon. Read enough failures by 150k to warranty a swap.

 

My mechanic said mine was at risk of going fairly soon. I picked up a spare at a discounted price when I found it. I'm feeling like at 185K, it might not be so important to use OEM anymore, since longevity isn't as likely.

 

At around 115k my rear shocks failed and my starter. I also changed the front struts while I was at it, but it could have lasted longer. Also my heater/ac blower motor started to fail, so I replaced that. Changed my serpentine belt at 99k and 120k. My positive battery cable was changed with the starter, but I probably changed the negative at 110k.

 

Thanks for the note on starter, rear shock, and blower motor. I guess starter is the stranding risk while shock and blower motor can wait on repairs. Will definitely do some research to see about starter failure frequency.

 

I'm at 115k with a manual. Clutch, but I have 205/50r16s. Rear shocks were partially blown at ~40k miles (some dealt with it) did KYB excel G all around with OE springs. Uh. Oh, both main seals, I just found out, have failed just a little. Doing the rear now, and will get the front later -- may be a byproduct of a modified PCV system (added reed valve, now removed). Belt tensioner chirped at me at some point, so I replaced the bearing with a Timken -- that goofy writing is around here somewhere. Blower motor. Uhh...
I mean.. my tie rods are showing feint discoloration in their periphery. Anti-roll bar end links. I replaced control arms at some point rather than try to fit new bushings -- they were cheap. I think the water pump will be fine for a good while, what with having electric fans and all.
Engine and trans mounts are hanging in there!
Oh! I switched over to a magnetic starter from TYC not long ago (versus "non-magnetic", I assume).

Alternator seems happy. Thrown lots of spark plugs at it, along with valve adjustments. I personally think the shift fork and its boot needs replacing. Little thing's all beat up somehow.

CV shafts are getting a little sloppy but they don't knock. The boots on those things are amazing -- they look almost new.

 

Thanks, I guess might need to do tensioner pulley bearing as preventive. Again car is used by mother in law 1000 miles from me with me visiting 4x/year.

California bay area car so blower motor rarely gets action and doesn't leave mother in law stranded anyways. Will take a closer look at shocks and struts. Suspension rides really bumpy but can't really compare to long wheelbase sedan's smooth ride.

 

Why did you change the belt twice? Please explain (I'm about to replace mine).

 

After 21,000 miles I was getting nervous. The belt is one of the those things that if it breaks it will leave you stranded. When I first changed it the belt looked worn, but this time it wasn't that bad. Could have went longer, but it is hard to know that without taking it off and looking at the stretched inner side for cracks.

 

This video was posted on a different thread yesterday or maybe Friday. It was news to me, but apparently modern belts don't really crack so looking for cracks is not informative.

Having said that, no quality belt will wear out in 20K miles. If you changed it the previous time at 99K miles, you had pretty good evidence of that fact.

 

I have to agree with my colleague @Drew21 on this. I have bookmarked several YouTube videos, including the above, but I won't bother posting and being redundant. I have 95k+ mi. on my car, and I will be changing my drive belt and tensioner next month just because I have the parts and I don't where I will be, and in what health I will be in, when I reach 100k+ mi.

 

I bought the car at 99k miles, so I had no clue how long the belt was on there. There were visible cracks on the inner surface. At 120k there was clearly wear, but no visible cracks. The belt is $11, Bando 5PK1140, so I would rather change it. Certainly a pain to change, but better than not knowing and getting stuck for such a cheap part. Also time is important in addition to miles. The belt was on there seven years. Yep, took me that long to put 21k miles on the car!

 

That makes more sense. Sort of like the 3100-mile full synthetic oil/filter change I just did. Sounds a bit extreme, but that was all the miles on the Fit since last November. Not driving back to the parents (>2500 miles roundtrip) last Christmas makes a big difference on the annual mileage when you have an older EV for all local driving.

 

Not to flog a deceased equine, but I will add:

1) Changing the belt at 99k mi. is wise and prudent. In all likelihood, that was the factotry OEM belt on there.

2) I am not familiar with Bando. This Bando is $43.22. I brought this Mitsuboshi for $61.40.

 

Don't know much about serpentine belt brands. About 20K ago, I put a Gates K050448 on mine. Anything to worry about with a Gates?

 

I put on the same exact Gates belt about 5 years and 42k miles ago. Still doing great!

 

Front suspension creak on long suspension travel (Like speed bumps) when temperatures are below 40F. Mine has done it since almost new. It seems to be inherent to the suspension design.