Subwoofer power
Subwoofer power
Hey all,
I'm getting ready to install a small powered (Boss Bass600) subwoofer in my new Fit.
I'd like to run a fused +12V line from the battery, through the wirewall, to the back seat area. I think I'll get the remote turn-on voltage from behind the accessory power outlet, since it is switched with the ignition. I'll get the audio inputs from the rear speakers.
Anybody know the best way to get an 8-gauge wire from the battery through the firewall?
Thanks in advance.
I'm getting ready to install a small powered (Boss Bass600) subwoofer in my new Fit.
I'd like to run a fused +12V line from the battery, through the wirewall, to the back seat area. I think I'll get the remote turn-on voltage from behind the accessory power outlet, since it is switched with the ignition. I'll get the audio inputs from the rear speakers.
Anybody know the best way to get an 8-gauge wire from the battery through the firewall?
Thanks in advance.
I'm not planning on accessing the HU. I'm going to use hi-level speaker outputs. I will have to splice the speaker wires, maybe before the wires go into the door panel.
I haven't pulled the door panels yet, but hopefully my plan will work.
As far as power, I think the best bet for me (with my small sub) is to use the accessory power, maybe splice into it behind the panel. The plug is rated at 120W which is 10 amps. If I blow a fuse I'll have to try something more complicated, like getting 12V behind the fuse panel. Not looking forward to that, its' in a very awkward place.
I haven't pulled the door panels yet, but hopefully my plan will work.
As far as power, I think the best bet for me (with my small sub) is to use the accessory power, maybe splice into it behind the panel. The plug is rated at 120W which is 10 amps. If I blow a fuse I'll have to try something more complicated, like getting 12V behind the fuse panel. Not looking forward to that, its' in a very awkward place.
other cars that i ran power to the trunk went down the center of the car under the carpet.
Okay so let me know if im right about this...
I dont have to pull the head unit out.
I need to find the rear speakers wires before they run through to the door?
I have to splice and get a high or low level output?
I have to steal my power source from battery, my ground is easily done with connecting under my spare tire...
i have to run my 4 gauge wire to what...
I swear the fit is the first car to have lost me as far as wiring goes..
I have done talons, ludes, integras, firebirds...
I think im just having one of those weeks where all is lost...
Can someone give me a step by step guide?
I dont have to pull the head unit out.
I need to find the rear speakers wires before they run through to the door?
I have to splice and get a high or low level output?
I have to steal my power source from battery, my ground is easily done with connecting under my spare tire...
i have to run my 4 gauge wire to what...
I swear the fit is the first car to have lost me as far as wiring goes..
I have done talons, ludes, integras, firebirds...
I think im just having one of those weeks where all is lost...
Can someone give me a step by step guide?
Okay so let me know if im right about this...
I dont have to pull the head unit out.
I need to find the rear speakers wires before they run through to the door?
I have to splice and get a high or low level output?
I have to steal my power source from battery, my ground is easily done with connecting under my spare tire...
i have to run my 4 gauge wire to what...
I swear the fit is the first car to have lost me as far as wiring goes..
I have done talons, ludes, integras, firebirds...
I think im just having one of those weeks where all is lost...
Can someone give me a step by step guide?
I dont have to pull the head unit out.
I need to find the rear speakers wires before they run through to the door?
I have to splice and get a high or low level output?
I have to steal my power source from battery, my ground is easily done with connecting under my spare tire...
i have to run my 4 gauge wire to what...
I swear the fit is the first car to have lost me as far as wiring goes..
I have done talons, ludes, integras, firebirds...
I think im just having one of those weeks where all is lost...
Can someone give me a step by step guide?
You also need (at least for most amps and powered subs), a remote turn-on wire that provides voltage then the ignition is swtiched on. Otherwise the amp is running even then the car is off, batteries don't like that for long.
There may be low-level outputs from the headunit, I don't know. Since I'll prolly replace the door speakers anyway, that route (using the hi-level ) seems the easiest way to go.
I had an CRV that had an accesssory power jack in the back, I used that to power a bazooka, used the speaker outputs to drive the hi-level inputs on the bazooka, and it worked well. I wish the Fit had another acc. power outlet!
Okay so let me know if im right about this...
I dont have to pull the head unit out.
I need to find the rear speakers wires before they run through to the door?
I have to splice and get a high or low level output?
I have to steal my power source from battery, my ground is easily done with connecting under my spare tire...
i have to run my 4 gauge wire to what...
I swear the fit is the first car to have lost me as far as wiring goes..
I have done talons, ludes, integras, firebirds...
I think im just having one of those weeks where all is lost...
Can someone give me a step by step guide?
I dont have to pull the head unit out.
I need to find the rear speakers wires before they run through to the door?
I have to splice and get a high or low level output?
I have to steal my power source from battery, my ground is easily done with connecting under my spare tire...
i have to run my 4 gauge wire to what...
I swear the fit is the first car to have lost me as far as wiring goes..
I have done talons, ludes, integras, firebirds...
I think im just having one of those weeks where all is lost...
Can someone give me a step by step guide?
A 4 gauge power should definitely run directly to the battery! Just off the top of my head 4 should be for 350w+. 350w/12v = 29.16 amps . Run it directly to the battery! Like he said with a fuse close to the batt. Running a sub off the rear speakers is a bad idea if your in to imaging. Most people with properly set up systems like the sound in front like a concert with barely any sound from the back. Just ambient low volume. As you fade the speakers forward the subs volume will decrease. Just splice in to the front speaker wire and run it to the amp's speaker wire signal ports. Done. As for a bezel for a regular DIN stereo we'll have to work harder.
Last edited by MPGASAP; Sep 29, 2008 at 03:01 AM.
I've finished my speaker and sub install. I did end up running the sub from the rear to keep the wire length shorter. I was able to run the wires through the rubber boot that goes in between the door and the pillar, but that was not easy.
Since my sub is small (Boss bass-600) I got my power fron the accessory outlet. (Boss does not gives specs for the amp, just the woofer driver itself). Even when I run the thing pretty loud, I'm still not blowing any fuses so I'm happy. Does not sound like one of those earthshakers, but that's not what I wanted anyway.
I'm using Polk Audio 651s in the doors, and coupled with the sub, it sounds freakin great!
Since my sub is small (Boss bass-600) I got my power fron the accessory outlet. (Boss does not gives specs for the amp, just the woofer driver itself). Even when I run the thing pretty loud, I'm still not blowing any fuses so I'm happy. Does not sound like one of those earthshakers, but that's not what I wanted anyway.
I'm using Polk Audio 651s in the doors, and coupled with the sub, it sounds freakin great!
I've finished my speaker and sub install. I did end up running the sub from the rear to keep the wire length shorter. I was able to run the wires through the rubber boot that goes in between the door and the pillar, but that was not easy.
Since my sub is small (Boss bass-600) I got my power fron the accessory outlet. (Boss does not gives specs for the amp, just the woofer driver itself). Even when I run the thing pretty loud, I'm still not blowing any fuses so I'm happy. Does not sound like one of those earthshakers, but that's not what I wanted anyway.
I'm using Polk Audio 651s in the doors, and coupled with the sub, it sounds freakin great!
Since my sub is small (Boss bass-600) I got my power fron the accessory outlet. (Boss does not gives specs for the amp, just the woofer driver itself). Even when I run the thing pretty loud, I'm still not blowing any fuses so I'm happy. Does not sound like one of those earthshakers, but that's not what I wanted anyway.
I'm using Polk Audio 651s in the doors, and coupled with the sub, it sounds freakin great!
I'm looking to upgrade all of my speakers as well. Where exactly did you mount your sub? Got any pics? I have a brand new 12" JLW3v2 sitting in my house...has anyone seen a nice setup in the spare tire well area? If not I may end up giving that Boss a try....it got great reviews on amazon!
I ran a 4 gauge through the fender. going in perfectly. Routed it under the Steering wheel and to the rear. I was going to do a spare tire install with my custom box. But I would drastically reduce my type r's punch due to a small enclosure. So its in the back where I can take it out in no time
I,ve installed a 10" sub with a 760 watt amp. i ran a 8gauge from the batt. down to where the wiring harness goes through the fire wall. i just slided a big enough hole to where it'll fit and ran it to the back. as for splicing the rear door speakers i took off the door panel and removed the speaker so that i could splice and ran the wires from there to that back aswell. it sounds great and i sounds better when you do go at a high speed where the volume goes up. the system gets louder
I'm looking to upgrade all of my speakers as well. Where exactly did you mount your sub? Got any pics? I have a brand new 12" JLW3v2 sitting in my house...has anyone seen a nice setup in the spare tire well area? If not I may end up giving that Boss a try....it got great reviews on amazon!
I think a spare-tire type sub would be the best - I looked around a bit but did not find anything that would "drop in", and I didn't feel like building one.
our GD's run on the passanger side, next to the ac lines. there is a rubber piece that has wires running through the firewall. If you have it like that then run it through there, and dont play your sub when your car is not running. It will throw a code and drain your batt
The unit I used fits on the floor between the rear seats - it is just thin enough to let the rear seats fold down.
I think a spare-tire type sub would be the best - I looked around a bit but did not find anything that would "drop in", and I didn't feel like building one.
I think a spare-tire type sub would be the best - I looked around a bit but did not find anything that would "drop in", and I didn't feel like building one.
I was able to find a couple of "spare-tire type" subs you were looking for, but that's the easy part. Manufacturing an enclosure which actually sounds/looks decent in the spare tire well would be the real challenge...but I'm with you in that I want better sound, now!
Kicker - new CompVT slim subwoofer [audiojunkies]
I found a great deal on a cheap 12" standard enclosure (

Nice idea mounting it between the seats! I think you would hear a more full range sound from it if it were mounted more towards the rear, especially near a corner, but I'm sure you realize that and mounted it between the rear seats to utilize the magic seats without moving/removing anything...nice!
I was able to find a couple of "spare-tire type" subs you were looking for, but that's the easy part. Manufacturing an enclosure which actually sounds/looks decent in the spare tire well would be the real challenge...but I'm with you in that I want better sound, now!
Pioneer TS-SW1241D 12" Super Slim Subwoofer(PIOTSSW1241D) and other affordable Car Subwoofers at 6ave.com.
Kicker - new CompVT slim subwoofer [audiojunkies]
I found a great deal on a cheap 12" standard enclosure (
Amazon.com: Scosche Se12 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure: Electronics) and jumped on it, so over the next couple weeks I will be working towards getting some extra thump to my system as well...

I was able to find a couple of "spare-tire type" subs you were looking for, but that's the easy part. Manufacturing an enclosure which actually sounds/looks decent in the spare tire well would be the real challenge...but I'm with you in that I want better sound, now!
Kicker - new CompVT slim subwoofer [audiojunkies]
I found a great deal on a cheap 12" standard enclosure (


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