Speaker upgrade
Speaker upgrade
Hi freakers,
I'm half-way (Front is done) through installing Polk Audio 651s 6.5" speakers in my new Fit, and I am very pleased to report that it makes a HUGE improvement in the sound.
I used the stock speaker as a mount (you have to cut out the stock speaker, there are posts somewhere on FF on how this is done). I also had to remove (using a utility knife) the "lip" in the inside of the door panel that contacts the front of the speaker. I kept the stock connector connected to the plastic bracket and soldered wires from that to the new speaker terminals. That way the new speaker assembly attaches to the car just like the stock one does.
There is a very noticeable improvement when I set the fader to Front. Much clear, better highs. I also have a small sub under the rear seats that augments the bass very well. I ran it with the sub off and, well, I would be disappointed with that setup. I'm running bass -1, treble +2.
Sounds great, when the rear doors are done I bet it will sound even better!
Oh, and I put on the door sill trim that came today. It really dresses up an already classy car.
Edit: Yep, doing the rears improved even further.
I'd post some pics of the speaker assys and modified door panel but for some reason I can only upload 20 images to imageshack...
I'm half-way (Front is done) through installing Polk Audio 651s 6.5" speakers in my new Fit, and I am very pleased to report that it makes a HUGE improvement in the sound.
I used the stock speaker as a mount (you have to cut out the stock speaker, there are posts somewhere on FF on how this is done). I also had to remove (using a utility knife) the "lip" in the inside of the door panel that contacts the front of the speaker. I kept the stock connector connected to the plastic bracket and soldered wires from that to the new speaker terminals. That way the new speaker assembly attaches to the car just like the stock one does.
There is a very noticeable improvement when I set the fader to Front. Much clear, better highs. I also have a small sub under the rear seats that augments the bass very well. I ran it with the sub off and, well, I would be disappointed with that setup. I'm running bass -1, treble +2.
Sounds great, when the rear doors are done I bet it will sound even better!
Oh, and I put on the door sill trim that came today. It really dresses up an already classy car.
Edit: Yep, doing the rears improved even further.
I'd post some pics of the speaker assys and modified door panel but for some reason I can only upload 20 images to imageshack...
Last edited by IfTheFoo; Sep 26, 2008 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Done with the rear speakers
No, I am using the stock headunit with its amp. Plenty loud for me. I am running a powered subwoofer with its own internal amp, which takes a lot of strain off of the door speakers.
It's plenty loud for me.
It's plenty loud for me.
Sounds good. No pun intended. I miss having a non-factory setup in my vehicles.
edit: If you're having issues with storage space, I host all of my images on http://xs.to
It's not the best site in the world, doesn't have albums and all that such, but it's free hosting.
edit: If you're having issues with storage space, I host all of my images on http://xs.to
It's not the best site in the world, doesn't have albums and all that such, but it's free hosting.
i am wondering this too, and what powered sub did you get, i was thinking of doing this but there i looked under the seat and i didnt see much room down there. please post pics soon!

This might work for a powered sub...
Blaupunkt THb 200A Compact powered subwoofer 70-watt amp with an 8" sub at Crutchfield.com
Still - I don't think you can collapse the seats if you put the sub under the seat.
Blaupunkt THb 200A Compact powered subwoofer 70-watt amp with an 8" sub at Crutchfield.com
Still - I don't think you can collapse the seats if you put the sub under the seat.
I wired the powered sub like this:
Power comes from the accessory outlet, using a radio shack adaptor that has a switch integrated into the plug and long wires that are stripped and tinned.
I ran the volume control wire and the power wire in some plastic wire loom, on the floor between the drivers' seat and the console.
I was concerned about blowing fuses (the adaptor has one as well as the one on the car) but has not happened.
Audio input comes from rear door speakers, running into the "high level" inputs of the sub. It's a bit of a chore to splice into the speaker wires inside the door panels and run the new wires through the rubber boots, down the inside of the B pillars, and inside the lower door trim, and then back to the center of the car just fore of the rear seat backs, but it can be done.
My sub is a low profile one, about 6 inches thick. When the seats are layed flat (long mode), they rest on the top of the sub, meaning that the sub is still a bit too high. I can live with that. Sub is attached to the floor with heavy duty velcro. Seats in regular sitting mode work fine, as well as in tall mode (although the sub is exposed to view). If I need to use tall mode, I can disconnect it all and go subless.
My install is not pristine by any means but does the job - you have to really look for it to find it.
It was tricky getting the speaker splice wires routed thru the rubber boots in the door panels - I had to pull both ends out (from the door and from the door panel), punch a hole in the boot at a spot that would be inside the door if the boot were installed in the door, poke the wire thru that hole, and fish the wire out the other side (the side facing the front).
You could probably tape the wire to a coat hanger or stiffer wire and do the same. The boot has some funky curves that make feeding a wire through there difficult.
I realize that description probably makes little sense, I will try to post som pics, I tooks a few as I was doing this.
Power comes from the accessory outlet, using a radio shack adaptor that has a switch integrated into the plug and long wires that are stripped and tinned.
I ran the volume control wire and the power wire in some plastic wire loom, on the floor between the drivers' seat and the console.
I was concerned about blowing fuses (the adaptor has one as well as the one on the car) but has not happened.
Audio input comes from rear door speakers, running into the "high level" inputs of the sub. It's a bit of a chore to splice into the speaker wires inside the door panels and run the new wires through the rubber boots, down the inside of the B pillars, and inside the lower door trim, and then back to the center of the car just fore of the rear seat backs, but it can be done.
My sub is a low profile one, about 6 inches thick. When the seats are layed flat (long mode), they rest on the top of the sub, meaning that the sub is still a bit too high. I can live with that. Sub is attached to the floor with heavy duty velcro. Seats in regular sitting mode work fine, as well as in tall mode (although the sub is exposed to view). If I need to use tall mode, I can disconnect it all and go subless.
My install is not pristine by any means but does the job - you have to really look for it to find it.
It was tricky getting the speaker splice wires routed thru the rubber boots in the door panels - I had to pull both ends out (from the door and from the door panel), punch a hole in the boot at a spot that would be inside the door if the boot were installed in the door, poke the wire thru that hole, and fish the wire out the other side (the side facing the front).
You could probably tape the wire to a coat hanger or stiffer wire and do the same. The boot has some funky curves that make feeding a wire through there difficult.
I realize that description probably makes little sense, I will try to post som pics, I tooks a few as I was doing this.
Boss Bass600
This might work for a powered sub...
Blaupunkt THb 200A Compact powered subwoofer 70-watt amp with an 8" sub at Crutchfield.com
Still - I don't think you can collapse the seats if you put the sub under the seat.
Blaupunkt THb 200A Compact powered subwoofer 70-watt amp with an 8" sub at Crutchfield.com
Still - I don't think you can collapse the seats if you put the sub under the seat.
I decided I could live with that, only happens once in a blue moon, and I can disconnect the sub if I need to. Better than filling up the rear cargo area with a cabinet, which I use a lot.
I'd love to see some pics of the doors when you get them. My feet have already scuffed up the protective grills on the stock speakers, and I'm wondering how much your Polks stick out, and how they look compared to the stock ones.
My Polks fit perfectly behind the stock grills which are molded as part of the plastic door panel.
How is the Polk DB651s compared to the stock speakers bass output? Just wondering what it'd be like with just the Polks and no sub... would the bass be less than the stock speakers? Asking cause I know sometimes they filter out the low range more on the better speakers, and thus you get better mids/highs and lose bass with a speaker only swap.
How is the Polk DB651s compared to the stock speakers bass output? Just wondering what it'd be like with just the Polks and no sub... would the bass be less than the stock speakers? Asking cause I know sometimes they filter out the low range more on the better speakers, and thus you get better mids/highs and lose bass with a speaker only swap.
If it matches the bass output of the stock speakers, then its a total win IMO... the problem with adding a sub is losing a bit on the utility side. Otherwise I'd jump on a sub... but I don't want to lose any bass either from installing the Polks. So same bass + better mid/high is exactly what I'm looking for - if that's them Polks, I think I have my answer.
How is the Polk DB651s compared to the stock speakers bass output? Just wondering what it'd be like with just the Polks and no sub... would the bass be less than the stock speakers? Asking cause I know sometimes they filter out the low range more on the better speakers, and thus you get better mids/highs and lose bass with a speaker only swap.
The polks are on sale at crutchfield right now, buy one pair, get another pair half off. All 4 speakers come to about $150, with shipping included: Crutchfield.com - Electronics



