Speaker upgrade
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 524
From: Dallas, TX
How is the Polk DB651s compared to the stock speakers bass output? Just wondering what it'd be like with just the Polks and no sub... would the bass be less than the stock speakers? Asking cause I know sometimes they filter out the low range more on the better speakers, and thus you get better mids/highs and lose bass with a speaker only swap.
And like you, I don't know that I'm willing to give up any space/functionality for a sub. Unless, that is, JL comes out with a Stealthbox for the new Fits (not holding my breath on that one).
Last edited by txmatt; Jan 2, 2009 at 03:06 PM.
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 251
From: Bothell, WA
Door Panel Removal Instruction
Is it hard to remove the door panels?
Got any pointers? Are front & back similar?
Got any pointers? Are front & back similar?
Hi freakers,
I'm half-way (Front is done) through installing Polk Audio 651s 6.5" speakers in my new Fit, and I am very pleased to report that it makes a HUGE improvement in the sound.
I used the stock speaker as a mount (you have to cut out the stock speaker, there are posts somewhere on FF on how this is done). I also had to remove (using a utility knife) the "lip" in the inside of the door panel that contacts the front of the speaker. I kept the stock connector connected to the plastic bracket and soldered wires from that to the new speaker terminals. That way the new speaker assembly attaches to the car just like the stock one does.
There is a very noticeable improvement when I set the fader to Front. Much clear, better highs. I also have a small sub under the rear seats that augments the bass very well. I ran it with the sub off and, well, I would be disappointed with that setup. I'm running bass -1, treble +2.
Sounds great, when the rear doors are done I bet it will sound even better!
Oh, and I put on the door sill trim that came today. It really dresses up an already classy car.
Edit: Yep, doing the rears improved even further.
I'd post some pics of the speaker assys and modified door panel but for some reason I can only upload 20 images to imageshack...
I'm half-way (Front is done) through installing Polk Audio 651s 6.5" speakers in my new Fit, and I am very pleased to report that it makes a HUGE improvement in the sound.
I used the stock speaker as a mount (you have to cut out the stock speaker, there are posts somewhere on FF on how this is done). I also had to remove (using a utility knife) the "lip" in the inside of the door panel that contacts the front of the speaker. I kept the stock connector connected to the plastic bracket and soldered wires from that to the new speaker terminals. That way the new speaker assembly attaches to the car just like the stock one does.
There is a very noticeable improvement when I set the fader to Front. Much clear, better highs. I also have a small sub under the rear seats that augments the bass very well. I ran it with the sub off and, well, I would be disappointed with that setup. I'm running bass -1, treble +2.
Sounds great, when the rear doors are done I bet it will sound even better!
Oh, and I put on the door sill trim that came today. It really dresses up an already classy car.
Edit: Yep, doing the rears improved even further.
I'd post some pics of the speaker assys and modified door panel but for some reason I can only upload 20 images to imageshack...
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 212
From: Ft. Campbell, KY
I've found this in multiple vehicles I've upgraded speakers in, too. While OEM speakers are certainly not as robust as aftermarket ones, the paper cones and small magnets of stock speakers seem to do a decent job of getting (often muddy) bass out of the low power stock head units. Almost any good aftermarket speaker will be more accurate, but I've found I miss some of the bass afterwards without some sort of subwoofer.
And like you, I don't know that I'm willing to give up any space/functionality for a sub. Unless, that is, JL comes out with a Stealthbox for the new Fits (not holding my breath on that one).
And like you, I don't know that I'm willing to give up any space/functionality for a sub. Unless, that is, JL comes out with a Stealthbox for the new Fits (not holding my breath on that one).
sorry for jumping on this i know its old but did you ever look in to compact subs? there about 2-3" thick and making an incloser would not be hard for that at all or do what i did get the big a$$ sub box but dont bolt it down so it can be remover just in case...
the black cord goes to the box all i have to do is take them out and tape them so they dont ground out
thats a boston G2-10 with a GT20 AMP its turned all the way down and still almost to much just to show you what it could look like
New Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 16
From: Apple Valley, MN
If it matches the bass output of the stock speakers, then its a total win IMO... the problem with adding a sub is losing a bit on the utility side. Otherwise I'd jump on a sub... but I don't want to lose any bass either from installing the Polks. So same bass + better mid/high is exactly what I'm looking for - if that's them Polks, I think I have my answer.
Because of that reason I'm looking to continue following IfTheFoo's lead and put in the Bass600 compact powered sub. IfTheFoo, if you see this, I have a couple questions for you:
1. Why did you put the sub under a rear seat and not under the driver's seat? That's what I'm thinking about doing (size looks right), but if you did try that yourself and found it to not work I'd like to know -- I want to make this install as invisible and practical as possible.
2. Why did you run the high-levels from the rear speakers instead of the head unit? I'm thinking of going that route, but if there are reasons you didn't do that I'd like to know. That should be possible, right?
3. Why did you power the sub from a plug in the accessory outlet instead of directly wiring it to the outlet's wires (or using an add-a-circuit in the fuse box)? Just easier?
4. Does anyone have any idea if it'd be possible to run wires, like power and audio, invisibly under the center console? That would seem to be the cleanest way to wire things, if that's possible.
Disclaimer: I've never done car audio before so please excuse any ignorance
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