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Should I use bass blocker?

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  #1  
Old 01-23-2008, 10:48 AM
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Should I use bass blocker?

I am planning on installing a sub in my Fit, using the High-Level inputs from rear speakers. If I use a low pass filter on my sub, should I put the corresponding high-pass filter on the rear speakers? Note that only the sub will be amplified, and the rest will be stock.
Thanks,
CP
 
  #2  
Old 01-23-2008, 10:21 PM
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Yes, its a good idea to install them.

Since you now have a dedicated subwoofer, you'll get better sound out of the stock speakers if you remove the bass going to them. Especially useful now that you'll be cranking the volume on the stock speakers trying to match the output from the sub. Make sure you set your low pass filter on the amplifier so that you get a more or less flat response curve. (The sound level remains constant at all frequencies).
 

Last edited by Goutetsu; 01-23-2008 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 01-23-2008, 10:44 PM
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yes. using bass blockers on your speakers kinda help it not distort as much.

some speakers dont keep up with the bass, and since your running a sub, you wont need AS much bass coming from your speakers.

i mean yeah you need midbass, but that midbass doesnt need to hit low notes.
use mini mic fuses and hook them up to your speakers. it helps a lot.
 
  #4  
Old 01-24-2008, 09:35 AM
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Thanks for the info, but what are "mini mic fuses"?
 
  #5  
Old 01-24-2008, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by CptanPanic
but what are "mini mic fuses"?
Yeah, I'm kinda wandering the same thing here.
What did you mean SD_MR_FIT?
 
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:23 PM
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essentially they are bass blockers.
if you go to a local sound shop they should have some. my buddy installed them for me, because at the time when i was running my stock speakers he heard a lot of distortion due to the the speakers not keeping up with the sub.
 
  #7  
Old 01-25-2008, 08:58 AM
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Do you have a link?
Can't seem to find anything resembling a bass blocker under that name.
 
  #8  
Old 01-28-2008, 11:25 PM
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Just adjust the "bass" setting on the stock head unit to minus 3 or 4. Has the same effect. Then just adjust you gains accordingly.
 
  #9  
Old 01-29-2008, 11:22 PM
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Ummm... no.

First of all you will get increased noise, especially over an unbalanced connection. Arguably you could use this method because this noise is not as perceptible on a subwoofer, but that's not the main concern

If you had a 24 band equalizer maybe you could get away with it. But if you use that method with the head unit's "equalizer" you will lose a lot sound in the 100Hz - 500Hz region. End result? Your sound will be craptastic...

By the way, your certification is outdated. It was changed from "First Class" to "Advanced Level" back in '03.
 
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Old 01-29-2008, 11:30 PM
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You will get increasd noise into the subwoofer, but using the factory head unit wont make it noticable and it wil save soldering capacitors inline for esentialy the same effect.
 
  #11  
Old 02-01-2008, 08:29 PM
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but it's not the same effect!

the increased noise won't be much of a problem, not because of the head unit, but because car noise tends to be in frequencies beyond the subs range.

The problem is that factory HU with only Bas/Tre adjusments have a very high Q. (how wide the bands in the equalizer are). If he had at least a 7 band eq (think alpine hu's), then it could work,
but as it is, there will be a dip in the 200~500hz region. He's looking to improve sound in his car after all...
 
  #12  
Old 02-02-2008, 09:28 AM
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most "bass blockers" unless you know specifically what capacitance you need ae generally 500Hz and up @ 6dB/octave. These are the generic on's every shop keeps in stock for 4" coaxials. To get the correct one's you need to order them online generally or go to your local electronics store. For the stock honda spakers and most aftermarket 4ohm speakers a 4 to 3 micro Farad no polarized capacitor is perfect. This will give you roughly 150-200Hz high pass at 6db/octave. If you like listenig to bass heavy music at loud volumes might want to try something closer to a 2 micro farad cap. (300hz) Sounds high but it's nly 6db/octave which means the 300Hz filter will only lower the volume by 3Db's @150hz, 6DB's @75Hz. and 9DB's @37.5 and so on.
 
  #13  
Old 02-02-2008, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by CptanPanic
I am planning on installing a sub in my Fit, using the High-Level inputs from rear speakers. If I use a low pass filter on my sub, should I put the corresponding high-pass filter on the rear speakers? Note that only the sub will be amplified, and the rest will be stock.
Thanks,
CP

For a short answer, No you wont. There are crossovers built into the headunit to prevent sub bass from playing in the door speakers. Thats why it is called a low level converter. The bass blockers are a simple crossover and aren't going to do much, I would equate this to the piggybacking resistor in the IAT sensor that sells on ebay very commonly. It may give you a marginal benefit, but won't help much.

You would be much better off replacing the door speakers and running them off a dedicated stereo amp. Although I am not very familiar with the stereo setup in the fit, and when I called metra about ordering a harness for my fit they asked if it was externally amplified. Im going to have to do some research on the actual components of the stock setup to be able to help futher.

If you need any more advice feel free to pm me or speak to me on aim
 
  #14  
Old 02-02-2008, 02:07 PM
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a low level converter has nothing to do frequency response and the OEM head unit has a 20hz subsonic filter only.

a low level adapter is is generally just a potentiometer to reduce the voltage from the head units speaker level to a lower voltage compatible with RCA level inputs.
 
  #15  
Old 02-02-2008, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Injundon
a low level converter has nothing to do frequency response and the OEM head unit has a 20hz subsonic filter only.

a low level adapter is is generally just a potentiometer to reduce the voltage from the head units speaker level to a lower voltage compatible with RCA level inputs.
sorry, as i said in another post im not really familiar with the fit's oem headunit, but in most higher end headunits you can adjusts the crossovers there, as in an active setup...
 
  #16  
Old 02-03-2008, 03:18 PM
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Just turning down the bass on the head unit definitely isn't the same as soldering in some bass blockers. There is a huge difference in a high-pass filter and a reduction in bass from the source unit.

If I were in your shoes, I would set your amplifier's low-pass filter at 100hz, get 150hz bass blockers like these:

Bass Blockers Pairs at Crutchfield.com


It would be better to have a bass blocker with a lower crossover point, but that is the lowest I could find. However, with its shallow -6db/oct slope, you ought to be alright.
 
  #17  
Old 02-03-2008, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jmanpc
Just turning down the bass on the head unit definitely isn't the same as soldering in some bass blockers. There is a huge difference in a high-pass filter and a reduction in bass from the source unit.

If I were in your shoes, I would set your amplifier's low-pass filter at 100hz, get 150hz bass blockers like these:

Bass Blockers Pairs at Crutchfield.com


It would be better to have a bass blocker with a lower crossover point, but that is the lowest I could find. However, with its shallow -6db/oct slope, you ought to be alright.


And that's the [economical] way to go!

The 150Hz to 300Hz cap sounds about right, depending on your taste for bass, but given the build of oem speakers, I'd go with the lower point.

Your next step in the upgrade should be dedicated speaker for amps (with high pass filter) + upgraded speakers. But all in due time
 
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