I replaced the main horn with the 108db unit from a 2008 Honda Ridgeline today, and it sounds good. However, when locking the doors it still sounds horrible. Where is the second horn?

 

The other horn is behind the driver side headlight assembly. I would just replace both with better sounding units. That way whether you are honking the horn or arming the alarm it will sound better

 

:hello: wiggum

I made a similar mistake when I installed my Hella Supertones - connecting one of each of the new horns (dual horn setup) to each of the stock locations (doh!). Then I figured out that the one behind the headlight was for the alarm and the one in the bumper was the actual horn.

Personally I don't care that the alarm horn is the quieter, meep-meep type.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I just discovered this dual horn nature on my 2010 Sport when installing my Wolo Bad Boy. I'm considering running both positive horn leads to the Bad Boy. Is there anything inherently wrong or dangerous with this idea? I guess I'm concerned that energizing the alarm horn circuit when sound the regular horn will somehow damage the alarm circuit. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

You are trying to connect two power sources to one horn. I doubt if it will work.

 

Having installed an air horn this week, I wouldn't want that sucker going off when I click the remote twice; the meep meep horn behind the headlight seems just fine for its purpose.

 

Thanks guys. I think I'll leave the stock alarm horn in place and run the Bad Boy off the supplied relay. I appreciate all the input.

Erik

 

Put a diode on each circuit inline before the join. It will prevent power from going back to the source.

 

I ran into this too, when I put in my Bad Boy horn. The meep meep is ok for setting the alarm, the air horn would be a bit much for that...

 

Seeing as the Wolo Bad Boy is the popular choice, how difficult is it to install? I'm looking at getting a much louder horn for my car and these seem to be just what I'm looking for.

 

Either mine came with a bad relay, or the wiring instructions were whack. I gave up, and bought a relay from Radio Shack that came with a wiring diagram on the back of the package. Each connector on the relay is numbered; these connections worked for me:

86 - On/Off switch (i.e., the original horn wire)

87 - 12 Volt IN. Air horn motors suck up a fair amount of juice, especially when the compressor motor starts, so it's best to run a 20-Amp fused wire directly from the battery, using 14 gauge or bigger wire. In the area where the wire passes between the frame and the radiator, I ran the wire through about 6" of rubber vacuum hose to guard against chafing -- not essential, as the fuse will blow if the insulation wears and the wire shorts out, but I believe in overbuilding things, so that I never have to touch them again.

85 - Ground to frame of car

87 - 12 Volt OUT. This goes to the + terminal on the bottom of the horn.

Run a second ground wire from the - terminal of the horn to a grounding point on the frame; I used the horn bracket mounting point.

If you have the tools (crimper/stripper) and supplies (red and black 14 gauge wire, connectors, heat shrink tubing), it should take no more than an hour to install an air horn. The hardest part is fabricating a connector to the OEM female connector.

 

Can we get a part number for the Ridgeline horn? They also 2 horns. Thanks

 

The Ridgeline one will work too? Cool. I could swap out the horns in our ridgeline and Fit... wouldn't that surprise my wife... (she drives the ridge most of the time)

~SB