1 Only 1 trip odometer.
2 No "adjustable" intermittent wipers.
3 Map lights can't be set to come on with door open. Car too dark at night upon entry.
4 Rear drums.
5 No console.
6 No temperature gauge.
7 No outside temperature gauge.
8 AUX and USB can't be run at the same time.
9 A/C weak on cycle off.
10 No standard cargo cover.
11 Steering wheel doesn't telescope enuf, too far away.
12 Two white Eskies and the black interior.

 

How would it work, music from Aux playing on left speakers and music on USB playing on right speakers??

 

I run Sirius satellite radio thru my AUX on my Civic and Fit. On the Civic, I went in behind the dash and spliced into the wiring to add a 2nd port. I hooked up my cable and ran it back out to the cubby hole under the original port and mounted my Sirius radio and hooked it up there.

This left the original AUX port open and ready to accept another device, IPOD, etc, if needed. It kept me from having wires and plugs from sticking out of the car's original AUX port. I did the same with the power supply also. The cable was carefully threaded thru a hole in the back of the cubby hole, connecting to my Sirius. Install was clean, cables very neatly routed out of the way.

You can't do this on the Fit. The NavRad either has AUX active, or USB active. The default is USB. If you plug a mini-plug into the AUX port, circuitry in the AUX port plug "detects" the connection and the computer then flips the setting from USB to AUX.

When I spliced into the wiring on the Fit, I was unable to splice into the "detect" wire to activate the AUX/USB switcheroo. Even if I could, I would not be able to switch back to USB without disconnecting this "detect" wiring. Hard to do when your splice is hidden behind the dash.

I had to take the end of the 3.5mm plug, grind it down really short, then insert it into the car's dash AUX port, close the cover (keeping it clean looking), then the NavRad would switch to AUX and play my Sirius radio.

On the Fit, this is the best I could do. There will be times when I will hook up to the USB port and I will still need someway for the AUX port to be deactivated, therefore I will pull the ground down plug out of the front AUX port, while leaving the spliced connection still intact behind the dash.

It is possible that when the AUX port is detected, and THEN you plug something into the USB port, the computer will switch to USB. I didn't think to try this when I was doing the wiring. The trouble with this is the detect appears to be controlled by a circuit board built into the AUX switch that is missing on my Civic (Civic has no USB function). I didn't really know what to splice into the "detect" wire to make it send a signal to the computer.

It wasn't about running different sound on right and left. It was about a clean install and having an extra set of plugs to use if I needed to hook up more than 1 device. I can, however, run my Sirius thru the spliced AUX connection and hook up another sound device to the original outside AUX port and both will send sound signals to the radio at the same time. Not sure why anyone would want to do this as you can't seperate the sound into a left or right channel. Both sources would go thru the radio and be output on both left and right.

jerij

 

Me either...that's why I asked. "AUX and USB can't be run at the same time." isn't all that descriptive...sounded like you wanted to have something playing via AUX...and something via USB...at the same time!

I'm sure you've already tried this to no avail, but in the non-Nav head if you have something plugged in to both AUX and USB, pressing the AUX button toggles between them.

 

I would really, really like a 6th gear on the MT. I promise the Honda gods that I will shift down on hills and when passing. Other things: Outside temperature gauge and VSA (not here at any cost). I find I don't miss the engine temp. like I thought I would.

As for 4 wheel disks be careful what you wish for. You will spend much less to maintain the drum/disk combo we have then 4 disks. I have a Integra and it goes through rear calipers like candy. On a small car they don't get used enough and they seize up.

 

I do have a gripe with the visor. I'm 6' so I'm seated fairly far back. I drive north and south to and from work so the sun is on my left in the morning and on my left in the evening. An extension for the visor surely would help. As it is it's next to useless as it leaves a huge gap when pulled to the side...

Map lights illuminating upon entry would be nice but It's not a major issue.

Light in glove box would be welcome but again not a biggy.

I do have a question regarding those that have a problem with no exterior temp gauge...what exactly are you going to do with the information? How does knowing whether it's 56 degrees or 112 degrees outside help you in any way?

Is this just something that you had in a previous car and feel it should just "be there"? A simple point of curiousity? ("Hey it feels really hot! I wonder what the temp is?") What good does it do you?

Not trying to be a dick/smart ass, just wondering what you "think" you need it for...maybe it's a regional thing? Being from California it's either kind of cold outside, blazing hot or somewhere in between. Knowing exactly which one really doesn't tell me I can "do something about".

Just curious...

My Fit is easily the best all around car I've ever owned (car number 29 if memory serves). Sure, it "could" have some other things, but really, for what it costs and what it does it's a great little car just the way it is. Even a $175,000 Bentley GT is going to be met with "gripes" (I've been in one several times and could easily tear it a new one).

No car is "perfect" and the Fit is no exception...

 

You can shift up or down while it's in "D". It will however go back to that gear if you don't shift to "S".

 

You can go from "drive" to "sport mode" and then engage the paddle shifters seamlessly. You basically have two modes of "auto" and then full manual control when you hit the paddles (three modes total). "Sport" mode auto basically allows for longer duration before up shifting and will not go into 5th. Manual control will not kick in until you upshift/downshift with the paddles.

In other words, I can pull out of my garage and set the shifter to "S" and the car will behave just like any other automatic but it wil rev higher before upshifting and max out at 4th gear (it will not shift to 5th in sport auto). Once you give the paddles a nudge you are in control of the shift points. The car will downshift even in "manual" mode though...but this only occurs when decellerating.

Example would be getting off the freeway...you simply apply the brakes and as it slows it will downshift based on speed. It will not, however, go into second. It will go from 5th, 4th, 3rd and then 1st when you hit around 7mph.

It takes a little getting used to...but once you know what it's going to do and when it's going to do it it's pretty fun to drive.

I don't know why the other gent is complaining about it downshifting in full auto when going up grades. If you drive it in manual mode you'll get a better feel for the engines capability. 5th gear climbing a decent grade is not gonna cut it. I don't even bother with auto anymore. I sacrifice 1 or 2 mpgs overall but I drive it the way I want now and it still gets great mileage...

 

1 - adjustability of rearview mirror. My wife and I are quite far apart (30 cm's) when it comes to length. The mirror has a doublejointed fixture, however the balljoint right behind the mirror does not allow for enough travel to adjust. 2 Hands are always required to adjust.

2 - readability of A/C display on dim. It's not readable at all when dimmed, nor is it adjustable like the dash itself.

3 - interior fabric quality. It seems to stain and generally look ugly after just looking at it!

4 - armrest. Pathetically small, adjustment is very rough.

5 - gearbox. Engine is quiet in general, but on motorway speeds the lack of an overdrive/6th gear just has the engine revving too much and therefore being noisy.

6 - suspension. Can't handle small bumps very well, car tends to bounce from one to another.

7 - radio (non nav). No connecting a handsfree kit/iPod/USB without needing expensive add-on hardware.

 

It's not downshifting, it's unlocking the torque converter. It will stay in 5th.

 

1: Doors have to be shut before you can activate the lock
2) No input for car heater - means that you have to manually adjust the climate control before leaving the car to get proper function of the heater
3: Can't close the windows after leaving the car/opening the door
3: No engine temp gauge
4: USB placed in console instead of the glove box
5: Nowhere to keep sun glasses
6: Armrest is so small and placed so high it's practically unusable

Fortunately my Jazz has rear discs, outside temp gauge and height adjustable driver's seat, - otherwise they would be on the list as well

 

1. Let me add my criticism of the sun visors, especially when turned to the side.
2. Sixth gear for the manual transmission would be very helpful on highways.
3. A map light over the front seats would be useful. Installing the map light from the
Fit Sport might solve this problem.

Considering that the Fit base is an entry level model, it is otherwise remarkably well equipped.

ACMierzje
2009 Fit base, Taffeta White
2007 BMW 335i Coupe Alpine White

 

This is a rather minor but I was wondering if anyone else noticed this:

If you keep the A/C on for an extended period of time say on a moderate road trip of about two hours, do you notice that the climate control switches become very very warm almost to the point of being uncomfortable to keep your finger on them? The A/C button does this in particular but the other control knobs become warm as well. Not really sure what is up with that.

 

my only complaints so far are:

1. no optional cargo cover that cover the entire back with the seats folded down
2. no temp guage
3. no rear disk brakes
4. weird air noise/pressure vacuum problem. I noticed if I'm driving over about 70k with only one window down there is this weird noise/vacuum sensation that me and my dogs ears don't really like. It's easily solved by just cracking any other window but it annoys the hell out of me!

 

[quote=Malice101;716933]You can go from "drive" to "sport mode" and then engage the paddle shifters seamlessly. You basically have two modes of "auto" and then full manual control when you hit the paddles (three modes total). "Sport" mode auto basically allows for longer duration before up shifting and will not go into 5th. Manual control will not kick in until you upshift/downshift with the paddles.

I have a gripe about the way Fit AT behaves if you go from Drive to Sport mode while driving. In Sport mode (not using paddles), the transmission stays in third gear up to a pretty high RPM. Someone in another thread said it eventually shifts into fourth at something like 78 MPH. If you're driving along at 60 or even 70 MPH and want to go into Sport mode to use the paddles to keep the car from downshifting out of fifth gear all the time, when you engage Sport mode it will first drop to third gear until you paddle it back up to fifth. I personally don't like the feel of the engine dropping to third at 70 MPH.

 

1. No rear disc brakes
2. No locking glove box
3. No compression braking (This is the first small engined car I've owned in while... I go down a few hills on the way to work. I can take 'em in 2nd gear in my Mustang and can stay off the brakes. Now I have to be on the brakes a lot more.)
4. Blind spots caused by front pillars
5. Expensive replacement keys

This is my first new car ever (CFC was too good to pass up). I really like it overall. The gas mileage is impressive, it's fun to drive and I can fit my 9' 6" inside with no problem.

 

[QUOTE=Ultrawolf;726699]I have the same complaint about shifting from Drive to Sport mode when I want to be able to keep the tran. in 4th, e.g. when driving in mountains. My Fit always does a downshift as it goes into Sport - dammit, I want it to stay in the gear it was in! I wote to Honda Motor about this, asking if it was a problem that only I was experiencing or if it was a "designed-in" thing. If it was by design, I suggested that Honda have their engineers either fix/change their design or please explain to me why the shift change was designed that way - makes NO sense to me. This is a REALLY BIG design flaw if you ask me!

Two years and I have never received an answer from Honda, other than from their legal dept. telling me they ONLY make engineering changes that they develop "in-house" - they do not accept customer or other "outside" suggestions / recommendations.

 

Actually...the Fit in most of the Asian countries- Japan, Taiwan, Thailand .etc all have stock rear discs.

 

I noticed the same thing over the summer. I thought maybe it was a problem, but maybe this is normal.

The features I wish I had:
Have the headlights turn off automatically when the door is opened (or at least an option for this)
Ability to have the power outlet on even if the ignition is off.

 

Two replies....
I don't understand the "doors need to be closed" before locks can be engaged comment. On my 2010 AT basic all the doors can be locked by pressing the master door lock button while the front driver's side door is wide open. Since I have my Fit's doors setup to unlock whenever I put the AT lever into "P", I do this all the time when exiting the vehicle!

And the "no downshifting with AT" comment? Just recently I've used the D1-D2-D3 lower drive gears to facilitate slippery travelling thru our recent east coast blizzard, and I was really glad to have them available! In fact, if you wanted to you could almost drive a non-Sport AT like a 4-speed MT, shifting from "D3" at start right on up thru "D" every time...