2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

Sound Deadening Step #1

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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jbyron
Dynamat is extremely overpriced! And what you laid down only cuts out low vibrations for the most part. Different materials will cut out different frequences, from the low to the high. I use eDead at edesignaudio. It's a great value and you can buy by the sq. ft so you'll only buy as much as you need. Since you've done the mat, all you need is v3 (liquid that dries hard great for hard to reach places and contours) and v4 (cuts out high frequencies like wind noise)
This is great info, but can you elaborate a bit? I see a lot of people just lay Dynomat extreme and figure it's the best..it would be helpful to see what frequencies are blocked using each material...or if we knew which frequencies are most resonant in the GE cabin.

Although a material like Dynomat seems to block a lot of the road/wind noise, if you know of a better option to block the exact frequencies used as they transfer into the cabin, it would be most helpful if we had some frequency or other numbers to compare - let us know.. thanks!
 
Old Mar 29, 2009 | 01:14 AM
  #22  
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My sound deadening project continues. Finally got to work on the rear doors this weekend. I put Dynamat on the outer skin and CAE DK-1 on the inner skin. It was a PITA to put Dynamat on the outer skin because all the parts and obstruction. It took me good 14 hours to do both doors. I replaced the stock speakers at the same time. I am too tired to work on the front doors. May be next weekend.





 

Last edited by vwli; Mar 29, 2009 at 03:51 PM.
Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #23  
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Thumbs up Good Work

I'm using you as my reference.

This is going to really pay off for you.

How do you like the improvement (in noise elimination) from this latest work so far?

Please let us know.
 
Old Mar 29, 2009 | 03:30 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jrlnc
I'm using you as my reference.

This is going to really pay off for you.

How do you like the improvement (in noise elimination) from this latest work so far?

Please let us know.
Noise reduction is not as significant as laying Dynamat at the trunk area. But there is still some improvement. I think doing the front doors will have more effect since it will be closer to the driver. The rear speakers sound so much better than before though. I do not know it is becasue of better speakers or the sound deadening of the doors. It must be a combination of both. I can't wait to finish the front doors after this aching body heals.
 

Last edited by vwli; Mar 29, 2009 at 04:00 PM.
Old Apr 5, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #25  
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There will be a great improvement on the front doors. My midbass improved when I had mine deadened.
 
Old Apr 5, 2009 | 02:43 PM
  #26  
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My primary concern for wanting to sound deaden is to hinder road noise instead of improve audio quality. Would it be worth my time to do this or is the difference insignificant?
 
Old Apr 5, 2009 | 11:44 PM
  #27  
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I did the front driver door this weekend. It took me about 6 hours. Dynamat on the outer skin and CAE DK-1 on the inner skin. I'll rate the noise reduction as follows:

#1 Trunk area
#2 Front door
#3 Rear door

I did not snap any pic. I'll do that when I work on the passenger front door next weekend.
 
Old Apr 12, 2009 | 02:22 PM
  #28  
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I wrapped up my sound deadening project yesterday. I finished the passenger side front door. I snapped a few pics. I was so tired at the end of the day that I forgot to take picture with the CAE DK-1 on the inner skin. The Fit is definitely a lot more quiet than before with all the sound deadening. I can enjoy the music and carry on a conversation on the freeway much more better.

Total time: around 28 hours
Total cost: a bit over $200
Reward: endless


 
Old Apr 12, 2009 | 02:55 PM
  #29  
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great work.
i wish we had some before and after DB ratings.
 
Old Apr 12, 2009 | 08:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by niko3257
great work.
i wish we had some before and after DB ratings.
I know what you mean. Too bad I don't have a DB meter to measure the before and after reading.
 
Old Apr 12, 2009 | 10:49 PM
  #31  
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Did you consider covering the big holes with Dynamat? That would have sealed the door and would have given you better midbass response. It looks like some wires are poking through but I think some form of covering would improve the sound. Just a thought...

Originally Posted by vwli


 
Old Apr 12, 2009 | 11:03 PM
  #32  
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I covered the big holes with CAE DK-1. I forgot to snap a pic after I was done. On the front door panel there is a styrofoam block. I have to make a cutout on the DK-1 to accomodate that.

BTW, I don't want to change subject or anything. I just found a cracked fog lens on the driver side. I finished the protective mesh on the air dam 2 days ago after reading horror stories on damaged condenser. Bottom line is, never underestimate the road debris.
 
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 04:37 PM
  #33  
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This is a cool thread, and something i've thought of doing.

Thanks for the pics, they're very helpful!
 
Old Apr 19, 2009 | 02:43 AM
  #34  
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Thanks for all the pics and detailed descriptions!

How difficult is it to remove the front door panels??
 
Old Apr 19, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Hondafrk
Thanks for all the pics and detailed descriptions!

How difficult is it to remove the front door panels??
It is not difficult at all. Same procedure as removing the rear door:

- Press on three tabs under arm rest and remove cover panel. Then remove one mounting screw. Disconnet power window wire harness.
- Remove one mounting screw on door release handle.
- Slide the door release handle foward (There are 2 tabs on release handle which sits on 2 slots on the door. By doing so, it will release it from the door. If you do not do that, you might break the tabs)
- Remove door trim panel by popping the snap pins one at a time (I use trim removing tools. But I don't think that is a must)
 
Old Apr 19, 2009 | 07:04 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by vwli
It is not difficult at all. Same procedure as removing the rear door:

- Press on three tabs under arm rest and remove cover panel. Then remove one mounting screw. Disconnet power window wire harness.
- Remove one mounting screw on door release handle.
- Slide the door release handle foward (There are 2 tabs on release handle which sits on 2 slots on the door. By doing so, it will release it from the door. If you do not do that, you might break the tabs)
- Remove door trim panel by popping the snap pins one at a time (I use trim removing tools. But I don't think that is a must)
Thanks a lot, + rep!
 
Old May 2, 2009 | 01:33 PM
  #37  
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I got some CAE-DK1 left after doing the doors. I decided to put some under the hood yesterday. I removed the insulation pad on the passenger side and the air scoop on the driver side. I lay the DK-1 on the two pockets on the hood. After I was done, I put the insulation pad and air scoop back. The one on the passenger side is completely covered by the OEM insulation pad. You can see part of the DK-1 under the air scoop in the pic. The engine noise is reduced significantly. I have to get used to the sound of the engine when I am switching gear. I am very happy with the result.
 

Last edited by vwli; May 2, 2009 at 11:55 PM.
Old May 2, 2009 | 09:51 PM
  #38  
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cool, whats CAE DK-1 is it a sound barrier or a deadener?
 
Old May 2, 2009 | 11:57 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by cbs1013
cool, whats CAE DK-1 is it a sound barrier or a deadener?
It is a vibration damping based material. See Car door damping kit for detail.
 
Old May 3, 2009 | 01:51 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by vwli
I know what you mean. Too bad I don't have a DB meter to measure the before and after reading.
A digital DB meter is only $49 at Radio Shack.....all we would need is your current DB (with sound deadening materials installed). I could measure the stock DB as I have the same DB meter.

Digital-Display Sound-Level Meter - RadioShack.com

 



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