I would go parallel than series.

 

I'm not sure you can install parallel in a simple ground automotive install and I don't see the benefit to do so. Hot to hot and they all work, just need to have a big enough fuse to carry max load.

 

I skipped the drilling and went with the easy route with this...

...got mine from local Target
check out the installed video clip

 

yes you can and is more fail safe but indeed tedious and IMO,not worth the hassle unless you want the 12v aux in the trunk... for a more quicker solution, OP should just consider my above post

 

The big external splitter box is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. I've got enough of a wiring mess and would rather have the extra ports built-in if possible. I want to add 2 or maybe 3 ports next to the existing one if they will fit.

 

then I suggest you go with parallel wiring the contraption above worked for me without getting in the way non the less http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60...uxDSC02949.jpg

 

I understand the difference between series and parallel. But I haven't had the panel off yet to look at the plug. How are wires attached to it? Are there any special connectors I need or do I just need to get the plugs and covers from Honda and solder, crimp, etc. them up myself.

 

the stock should be prong connectors

 

You just need a couple of "quick disconnects" or "slide connectors" or "push on connectors". Below is a pic of what you need (female end).






BTW, spade connectors are the ones that are forked. For the longest of time, I thought the quick connects were called spade connectors, because the make part resembles a spade (shovel).

 

Thanks. I should have those lying around.

 

Sadly enough, I had to google whether or not to put outlets in series or parallel. Only to be reminded of a fairly obvious problem with series outlets. If any one of them are off/unplugged, they're all off. Series wiring: negative of 1st becomes the positive of second.

In any case, this is a mod I've been thinking about lately too. Having a portable GPS, cellphone and bluetooth headset that all need recharging is a PITA. But, I do have a multiple port adapter I had used a while back. Though it is a bit unsightly with all the wires.

 

Well that was my point to begin with run in series - simply run hot to hot on each one. It's not like light bulbs. Each socket will be grounded and they're off until used. I think the power outlet circuit is on a 20A fuse - plenty.

And as ThEvil0nE points out, unless your running an aux 12V power to the boot, for some untold reason_, it's just not worth the hassle, and I'm still not clear on how you would wire them in parallel anyway.

As for getting 12V power to the boot, I would dedicate a line off the battery, fused appropriately and of suitable gauge with no stops in between.

K_C_

 

hum...

Do the sockets have two wires or three? Actually, it still doesn't make sense to me, how you can wire them in series.

Your description of "hot to hot to each" is what I would consider parallel.

A series would be hot to #1, ground/negative of #1 would act as hot to #2, etc.

The only way I can think of to wire them in series is that each socket has an internal bypass that activates if something isn't plugged in, but that's far too complicated to be needed. It's easier just to treat them like light sockets. Hot/positive in, ground/negative out (and sometimes a second ground).

 

How about a separate battery in the spare tire well for an aftermarket stereo system along with an aux outlet. I love my 12 volt mobilecool cooler. Awesome for hot days on a road trip.

Anyway, check out my cardomain site below.

 

I have my stuff hard wired. Do any of your stuff come with a hard wire kit? Not that you need a specific kit.

 

Um, and how would you recharge it? Wouldn't that still require running some wires from the front of the car? Or did you mean in addition to the KC mentioned?

Nope. I thought about doing hard wire for some of them. I've seen the DIY where the person opened up the plug head from the Garmin's cig adapter (was that you?). But, I decided that these things were meant to be portable and not permanent. Plus, I might get an aftermarket HU w/Nav anyway (if I do, don't know when).

Reminds me of something I saw last week. A CBP (I think, could be BBP) Fit from Florida. That person had mounted their gps onto a bracket that was screwed into the dash. Something, I'd much rather avoid. My gps is flopping around on the passenger seat. Its too bad I don't have a surface I could attach the suction mount onto like I did in the Pathfinder. That location was perfect for me, within arms reach, didn't have to look too far from the road and did not block the windshield at all.



Best pic I have of the mount (at the top). Incidentally, that's an Alpine ida-x305 HU... it has ALL the glitches with iPod that the stock non-nav Alpine stereo has in the Fit (at least in mine). But it had a better display.

 

I guess you haven't been to my cardomain site.

As for the Garmin hard wire. That wasn't me.

 

Haha, actually, I think I did visit it a while ago. Apparently I forgot.

 

Nice site. So are you charging the aux battery off the primary?
My 96Deville had one big-ass cable running to the trunk when I bought it - I thought it was a direct power source, now I know.

I agree with the hard wire approach if you can get away with it. I'll be wiring in my GPS and my XM on the near future.
Only issue I need to approach is with the GPS. I mount that in the drivers vent window, guess I'll sneak it up and just leave the lead lay in the window well.

Goobers you might have seen my XM mounted to the power outlet panel.


Back to the power outlets - they have two connectors, one is hot the other ground.
No need to connect ground to ground - tie each one at their location, connect the hot from the first to power the next and so one.

 

Yes. I was worried about the alternator not being able to keep both batteries charged, but so far, so good. I always joke about the fact that I can jump start my own car if it came to that.