Yes, yes it is.

 

A properly done supercharger or turbocharger is the route to 15-20 hp. Exhausts, filters and revised computers are good for typicaly 5-6 hp on the dyno for a Fit total and not much at less than 56000 rpm.
Nitrous of course will add speed quyikly as it wuill shorten your engine life.
There ain't no free ride.
Course substituting a K or B engine might be much cheaprer and certainly much fster. Since my 1600 CRX gets 37 mpg I don't understand why it isn't the engine of choice for America anyway..

 

I believe he missed the whole well if 100lbs nets you .1 sec quicker than all 2500lbs would equal 2.5secs, but you are left with you and the 1/4 mile to RUN.

 

1/4 mile calculators are kinda fun and I actually use it to see a dollar cost benefit to mods.
1/4 Mile Calculator

Here is how I did mine using calculator above.

stock MT sport 117 HP 2540 lbs = 16.25 sec 1/4 mile
.....now that is close to the best published MT 1/4 of 16.3 (C&D or MT)

remove rear seat, spare, add forged wheels, light pulleys, lightweight battery
you have shaved about 131, lbs plug those numbers in

117 hp 2409 lbs = 15,96 sec 1/4 mile

now some of those mods help 2 ways because it's rotational weight.
each lb off the crank is said to free up avg 2 hp (more on bigger or turbo motors, less on small displacement motors)
each 10 lbs of wheel weight removed is supposed to free up 1.7 hp and my long tube PRM dyno was like + 6 hp
let's just take a conservative less than 75% of that and say I added or freed up 11 HP

128 hp 2409 lbs = 15.49 1/4 mile
now if you hadn't shed weight, but you added at least 30 lbs with a turbo/Supercharger you would need 137 HP (20 over stock) to get my calculated 1/4 mile time above

137 HP 2570 lbs = 15.48 1/4 mile

So I got a calculated 20 HP gain with my mod/weight reduction it cost $1550 to do it. To me that starts to approach a safely boosted Forced induction system at less than 1/2 the cost.

Food for thought

 

That calculator is pretty cool. I don't think the stock fit puts out 117 whp though :/ most stock dynos show 95-104. I think the

 

True, but the point is I picked the calculator that closest matches the best published manual 1/4 mile time. The 117 HP 2540 weight and the published stock MT 1/4 mile times all fit pretty well with this particular calculator.

There are a number of other calculators, some give you a choice of flywheel or whp. The other point is whatever calculator you pick, the gains are all relative.
Try it yourself with various googled calculators, and I think you will begin to see what I am saying.
If I had an auto tranny, I would have tried various calculators to find the one that best matches published AT 1/4 mile times.

 

I think ypu're overestimating.
Because of aero and engine dynamics I doubt you can get a tenth with the first hundred pounds of weight loss. After that its a decsending rate of improved times.
Cutting 2 lb off the flywheel will certainly aid response acceleration but hp wont change much.
Adding a turbo or supercharger will fatten the torque curve most of the way so acceleration will pick up considerably throughout; its torque for acceleration and hp for top speed.
My guess is a quarter second for your plan and at least i second reduction for 10 psi forced induction.
Replacing wheels and tires with much lighter units will help enormously. maybe more than all your weight saving put together.

 

I disagree. Many people use these calculators, hot rodders, bracket racers, tuners. They are not dead nuts but are a surprisingly accurate guide. Tons better than just guessing.

And go to Unorthodox and look for yourself, they have prolly 30 dyno runs posted.
If you do not believe unorthox, google and find dozens of independent tests such as this one Honda Fit Crank Pulley - Import Tuner Magazine

Lastly removing a hundred lbs is more like 3 tenths (on a sliding scale)
This is not countered by aerodynamic drag because how the heck does removing weight change aerodynamics????????

Look, I am just sharing what I did to my car. The tools and research I used to cross check my plan.
If you think that is total crap, feel free to do your own car your own way.

 

Been following this thread for some time, and I just had a small epiphany.
There has been an on-again/off again thread over on the Jeep forum inquiring about how to get better gas mileage out of a Jeep. Usual mods are proposed, (getting a Jeep down from two tons to 3700, air, muffler and timing), but the bottom line is pretty simple. If you want great mileage, buy something else. Which explains why I'm posting this on the Fit forum....
Same deal here, gang. If you want thundering acceleration, buy something else. Now if you'll settle for a couple tenths off the 0-60, or if you just enjoy tinkering and modding, or enjoy the theoretical exercise, good. But I wouldn't expect too much...
Moon

 

But that is what car forums are about. We dont design and build our own cars. We buy them off the rack and gauge how and if we want to taylor them better to our liking. It is all relative.
Go to a Nissan Z forum and tell somebody who is thinking of modding, "if you wanted a fast car you should have bought a lamborghini

We spend our time here for the fun of it basically. If somebody feels great about adding a carbon fiber rear view mirror cover (which to me is worthless) I don't post negative on them. Let them have their fun!
That is just my humble $.02

 

Reminds me of a philosophy used in software development. You can pick 2 of Fast, Cheap, or Good.

Fast and Cheap will be an inferior product.

Fast and Good will be expensive.

Good and Cheap will be Slow.

If you bought a Fit you are in the third category no matter how many V-Tech stickers you put on it.

 

Not arguing with that, but you cut off my last sentence in your quote "...if you just enjoy tinkering and modding, or enjoy the theoretical exercise, good..."
If we're doing it for the loving of the game, well and good. If we're expecting to turn a Fit into a Lambo (or even a works Mini Cooper), we're probably fooling ourselves. That ain't meant to be negative; it's just a little nod to reality.
Moon

 

You spelled grammar wrong. lol. sorry...couldn't help.
I'm in category 3.

 

Now I can pinpoint why I am not connecting with the last 2 posts.

cheap? The fit is not the cheapest economy car. It is as fast or faster than a $32K Prius, many $40K suv's and pick ups, many $26K sedans. Money just does not equal fast.

I am not sure who here could/would expect thundering performance from a fit, or compare not just the fit but 99% of all cars to a Lambo. I think most folks here are asking/stating reasonable gains. Not way out there extremes.

Although it can be the nature of the Forum beast. People can argue endlessly about how to remove 4 ounces from $5000 bicycles. You will see the same all too obvious 'eat less burgers' 'you should have got the $6000 bike instead' replies. But usually people sift through a thread and find that nugget of info they wanted.
At the end of the day it is mostly 'all good' and perhaps good entertainment

 

We used the dyno sheets and quarter mile drag slips from a couple of our avid drag racers with more than a few trophies. I've a slide rule more often than most, but the real world isn't that predictable.
And BTW if aero is a strong factor on acceleration, the fact it doesn't change means weight and power are less effective. And the Fit is not very aero.
Our experence just says forced induction is better than your plan of weight reduction. It may be more efficient to use liteweight 10 lb wheels and 10 lb drag tires to get acceleration.
As any dyno operator knows once the engine is leveled out at a given rpm for 15 seconds, a shaved flywheel has no effect on hp. At a constant rpm the lightened flywheel offers nothing to increase hp. But acceleration from one rpm to another, you bet it makes a difference. Any perceived difference is always lost when the statistics are applied to successive runs.

 

iridium spark plugs.. and air filter.. and use this racing oil from japan. its called Eneos. its about 10 bucks a quart, but i did air filter, straight pipe, high flow cat and muffler, spark plugs and oil, and i got 15 more hp. and if you drive it on the highway, you get about 3 more miles per gallon. oh yea, i got a spec 2 cam, cam shaft from bisimoto. if you add everything up, it was expensive, but not as expensive as getting a turbo or supercharger.

 

I say screw it all and stick a k24 automatic in the back and just wire everything up. Everything is drive by wire anyways with autos, even the paddle shifters.

It'll be just like the rwd h22 integra but even more sleepy.

94 GSR mid-engine RWD H22A4 conversion - Team Integra

 

I'd just like to point out you can do almost all the same weight reduction techniques with FI that you can NA.

 

i say, put a flux capacitor and gun it to 88.

lol.

i have yet to put on my spark plugs cuz i know it'll take time.
so yeah, ....plugs, intake, and exhaust. quickest way. not much gains but what can you expect from a fit.

 

Flux capacitor takes 2 seconds off 1/4 mile time.. lol