Stock stereo / power amp
Has anyone tried adding an aftermarket power amp to the stock (non-nav) stereo system?
I know it doesn't have rca outs but couldn't you just re-route the speaker wires thru an amp? Are the speakers rated high enough for wattage to bother? I did search but couldn't really find anything on this other than wire diagrams Thanks! |
There is a FIT In Car Entertainment forum on here, I suggest looking there.
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you can, make sure the power amp that you will buy have the speaker level input.
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Boosting Stock Stereo
I just in the last couple weeks did that. From Crutchfield I got a small Sony XPlod amp 200watt (under the driver seat) and Sony replacement speakers for the front and rear doors and the dash tweeters. There's a $25 converter you put in line from the stock speaker wires that converts then down and allows RCA jacks out. It was loud, but not enought bass for me as the rear doors only hold a 6 inch speaker. Returned those and bought a small kicker sub that sits in the back storage. Now it seriously cranks, and I have great sound quality! Best part is I have all the features of the stock head unit (usb in, etc) and it all looks stock so I mantain a low profile with the stereo theives.
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Originally Posted by Hitech Fit
(Post 890196)
I just in the last couple weeks did that. From Crutchfield I got a small Sony XPlod amp 200watt (under the driver seat) and Sony replacement speakers for the front and rear doors and the dash tweeters. There's a $25 converter you put in line from the stock speaker wires that converts then down and allows RCA jacks out. It was loud, but not enought bass for me as the rear doors only hold a 6 inch speaker. Returned those and bought a small kicker sub that sits in the back storage. Now it seriously cranks, and I have great sound quality! Best part is I have all the features of the stock head unit (usb in, etc) and it all looks stock so I mantain a low profile with the stereo theives.
Also how did you splice the converter into the stock wires?.. i want to do this but hate the idea of cutting the stock wires... I wish someone made an adapter that went between the factory head unit and the factory wires that extracted the speaker wires and also something to use as the remote, so there would be no cutting/splicing involved. |
I did indeed cut the wires at the back of the stero and spliced in from there. That is also where I attached the amp remote turn on wire. I will warn you that there was very little slack wire back there, and I had to cut the tape back on the loom just to expose enough to make my connections. As for wiring, I found the complete diagram of colors on this web site, afterwitch I came back and joined as it's a great info forum. The Crutchfield speakers came with adapters that plugged in to the stock harneses in the doors. I did however then tap into the factory wiring looms that run down the length of the lower door steps as I couldn't feed my new speaker leads through the rubber grommets out to the door. Crossovers easily fit in the front kick panels. There's enough room if you wanted, to put the amp behind the right side of the glove box. I did under my seat as it was easier to get to adjust.
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I think I'm going to go with one of these:
PAC AOEM-HON17 Add an Amplifier Adapter, Car Stereo Kits, Audio Wiring Harnesses, Installation Equipment, Electronics, Accessories & Adapters It's a bypass so there is no cutting of wires at all http://www.autosoundcentral.com/v/vs...emhon17-2T.jpg |
Originally Posted by TunaSoda
(Post 890471)
I think I'm going to go with one of these:
PAC AOEM-HON17 Add an Amplifier Adapter, Car Stereo Kits, Audio Wiring Harnesses, Installation Equipment, Electronics, Accessories & Adapters It's a bypass so there is no cutting of wires at all http://www.autosoundcentral.com/v/vs...emhon17-2T.jpg thanks for bringing this to my attention. :) |
Let me know what they say, I am thinking this is exactly what I need :)
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Another option: re-Q - Take control of your factory stereo!
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Originally Posted by TunaSoda
(Post 890481)
Another option: re-Q - Take control of your factory stereo!
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Here is the PAC manual: http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_120100.pdf
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I'd still like one that has a separate 3rd rca output for a subwoofer, I could splice but it would be nice to have the channels EQable
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Originally Posted by TunaSoda
(Post 890479)
Let me know what they say, I am thinking this is exactly what I need :)
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BTW tunasoda sounds disgusting.. was that a Jone's soda flavor?
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Originally Posted by LeafEater
(Post 890499)
BTW tunasoda sounds disgusting.. was that a Jone's soda flavor?
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Nice LOL :D
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Now I see it - a new MOXIE flavor, right?
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will that add an amp adapter fit in an 08 by ne chance its says (ALL) right next to it so....idunno
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Good thread, I to am thinking about replacing the stock speakers, and powering them with a small but quality amp. Also want to stay as low profile as I can. I wouldnt mind a small sub but then I'd need a cargo cover and it adds to the cost of the system....
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Originally Posted by fitdriver420
(Post 964125)
will that add an amp adapter fit in an 08 by ne chance its says (ALL) right next to it so....idunno
I have a GD3 and started to tap the harness wires using these little PIA's: http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/file...dlights-09.jpg Yesterday I tapped the wires for the speakers, and I was sure I tapped the right wires for my LOC. But I wasn't getting a signal to my amp, but the remote wire was working. I just decided to forget it and get an OEM stereo because I didn't feel like tapping more wires (those things SUCK) SO this morning I went back to take the taps off, and realized they didn't even expose the metal on the wire harness wires! If I can get one of those amp adapters for <$50, I'd definitely consider getting one instead of getting an aftermarket stereo and dashkit.
Originally Posted by Hitech Fit
(Post 890196)
and it all looks stock so I mantain a low profile with the stereo theives.
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Hah. I'm going the same route as I want to keep my interior as stock as possible. Thieves are thieves, they will take whatever want may it be stock or aftermarket. But obviously an aftermarket deck will be more of a potential sale if they get their hands on one.
I am going with a PAC unit as well, getting a 4/5 channel amp to power all 4 speakers and (maybe) add a small sub in the future. |
I've been researching stereos to get, and then started thinking about thieves. I'm only 16 and this is my first car. We live in a pretty good area, and I can park in a garage, so I've never really had a break-in experience. But I'll be going to a local college next year and I have no idea how the security is over there, so I found a DIY for a fake stereo faceplate (lol)
Anyways, this cool little thing could possibly deter thieves. Given that you hide your amp/subs well too. |
Well, it's still up to you. It's your car after all. It's only my plan for my car to keep it stock looking inside, my rear windows are tinted and I have a cargo cover anyway so that can at least minimize the fishbowl appearance of the car and hide my valuables.
I like to use the PAC unit because it will lessen the use of cutting/splicing wires. |
I hope the PAC unit will work in my 2008 Base.. If so I'm definitely getting that. I kind of want to stay stock now, paranoia is getting to me xD
And about the cargo cover, I kind of want to try a DIY one like some users have made on here. They look relatively simple, as long as I get the right material for safety reasons. I might possibly just splurge on a 60 dollar OEM cover with the money I save from not buying a dashkit. |
My GD is a base too, but I replaced my head unit with the one that came from a sport so I get mp3/wma capability as well as the preset equalizer. The sport unit pushes a bit more power compared to a base unit too. So my suggestion to you is to find a cheap head unit off a sport and use that with the PAC.
Check your local Craigslist for some deals. |
If I can get that PAC adapter, I can just tap some wires on it to get an auxiliary input. It'll be easy.
EDIT: Nevermind, the wires needed for auxiliary aren't on the wiring harness, I just checked the DIY thread for it (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-base-fit.html) |
Originally Posted by Clouds
(Post 1190366)
If I can get that PAC adapter, I can just tap some wires on it to get an auxiliary input. It'll be easy.
EDIT: Nevermind, the wires needed for auxiliary aren't on the wiring harness, I just checked the DIY thread for it (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-base-fit.html) |
Yeah I may as well just get a simple DIN stereo with RCA out and AUX in.
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Originally Posted by Clouds
(Post 1190370)
Yeah I may as well just get a simple DIN stereo with RCA out and AUX in.
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New head unit is the way to go. The OE Head unit isn't a high quality one so if you are looking for any decent sound, you'll have to replace that. Adding an amp will add more power, but won't improve the quality of sound, only make the bad sound that comes out even louder. I replaced the OE Headunit (which is REALLY EASY BTW) about 3 weeks ago and the difference in sound quality (and volume) is much better, just by dropping in a $250 double-din head unit (which has bluetooth, dual USB, 3 sets of pre-amp outputs, etc...).
Remember, the source of your audio has to be good to see the benefit of speaker or amplifier upgrades. If you don't upgrade the HU, it'll be like upgrading from stock tires to drag slicks on a Yugo. you won't see much (if any) benefit unless you upgrade the car/engine first. ~SB |
I might just get a single DIN because - 1. I don't like the touch screens and don't need the features. I like to press the buttons without looking, it's harder to do that without a touch screen. Plus, if I have auxiliary input I don't need bluetooth. I only need one pre-amp output because I'm just running one sub, possibly two in the future. and - 2. I can't afford a nice double DIN unit right now xD
I'm probably going to find one with a removable faceplate. |
Originally Posted by Clouds
(Post 1190462)
I might just get a single DIN because - 1. I don't like the touch screens and don't need the features. I like to press the buttons without looking, it's harder to do that without a touch screen. Plus, if I have auxiliary input I don't need bluetooth. I only need one pre-amp output because I'm just running one sub, possibly two in the future. and - 2. I can't afford a nice double DIN unit right now xD
I'm probably going to find one with a removable faceplate. ~SB |
Originally Posted by specboy
(Post 1190654)
What's your budget? Crutchfield has some decent double-din units for relatively inexpensive and if you've never purchased from them before, I have a referral code that should get you $20 off. PM Me. I just installed the JVC Double-din and it does not have a touch screen. large knob, a few decently placed buttons and that's all.
~SB And probably, including the dashkit (~$50), I have about 200 to spend on the stereo. |
Originally Posted by Clouds
(Post 1190674)
Would the referral code get me a discount on other JVC stereos?
And probably, including the dashkit (~$50), I have about 200 to spend on the stereo. This is the Stereo I have - I chose this because of the display (although I wish it was a little bit brighter in the sun) These are the Double Din Stereos that Crutchfield has. I recommend Double-Din so you don't have a Giant pocket above or below and the Stereo takes up more of the dash (plus the display is bigger and there is more room for buttons, knobs, etc... - easier to use with bigger buttons in my opinion) Here's the Referral Code: pvrc8-62577-2c0iq ~SB |
Originally Posted by specboy
(Post 1190767)
Referral Code should work on most any Car Stereo (either over $100 or $200, Can't remember).
This is the Stereo I have - I chose this because of the display (although I wish it was a little bit brighter in the sun) These are the Double Din Stereos that Crutchfield has. I recommend Double-Din so you don't have a Giant pocket above or below and the Stereo takes up more of the dash (plus the display is bigger and there is more room for buttons, knobs, etc... - easier to use with bigger buttons in my opinion) Here's the Referral Code: pvrc8-62577-2c0iq ~SB |
This is the one I'm getting "IF EVER" I decide to go aftermarket.
Sony WX-GT80UI CD receiver at Crutchfield.com |
Originally Posted by jmsplitfyre
(Post 1191010)
This is the one I'm getting "IF EVER" I decide to go aftermarket.
Sony WX-GT80UI CD receiver at Crutchfield.com |
Originally Posted by Clouds
(Post 1191005)
Thanks! I agree that Double Dins are easier. Even ones that are limited on features are more expensive tho :/ and I don't mind the pocket much. I could use it to hold my phone/iPod if I'm playing music from them. If I can find a good-priced non-touch screen Double Din, I'll go for it (:
Ultimately, it's your choice but I'd go with a DD unit vs a Single Din if the difference in price is minimal. ~SB |
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