[quote=anime2k3;919009]driving normal shouldn't be a problem but you know, i am concerned on the braking. The front pad rear drum setup, doesn't instill confidence in me for winter driving. Heck, The fit doesn't exactly stop on a dime.

According to the specs from Consumer Reports, the Fit's breaking performance is above average. Here are the specs:

• Honda Fit Sport Manual transmission:
  • Braking from 60 mph dry: 136 feet
  • Braking from 60 mph wet: 145 feet
• Honda Fit Base Automatic Transmission:
  • Braking from 60 mph dry: 132 feet
  • Braking from 60 mph wet: 145 feet

Compared to the Civic Si which has disc brakes on all four wheels:

• Honda Civic Si coupe Si 4-cyl MT
  • Braking from 60 mph dry: 132 feet
  • Braking from 60 mph wet: 141 feet

Consumer Reports Links:

1. Car Model Review - Consumer Reports
2. Car Model Review - Consumer Reports

Note:
The braking judgement is a composite of wet and dry stopping distances, resistance to fade, as well as pedal feel and directional stability. Braking distance is from 60 mph, with no wheels locked.

Let me know what you think.

 

[quote=fit.sport;919134]
Well that's is a surprise. I suppose I am a bit judgmental on the car coming from my previous one that was a 2000 ford contour. That car was used by the city as a fleet vehicle. now that i think of it, they probably put in alot better brakes.

 

[quote=fit.sport;919134]Very little to do with a Disc/drum setup. remember, the fit has Narrow tires so a smaller contact patch which helps with economy but does detract from braking distance. Also, drums in the rear don't matter that much because there very little weight in the rear compared to the fronts. Upgrading tires first, then pads/shoes, then converting to rear disc/SS brakelines/lighter wheels would be the order to improve braking performance.

Overall, an Si/Fit braking comparison is Apples & Oranges. The Civic Si has 215 Width tires whereas the FIT is 185 (or 175 on the base FIT)
The Si tires have 16% more contact patch, the discs are 15% larger and have greater stopping power because they are further out from the center of the wheel, the tires are much stickier, and the suspension is stiffer (which assists with getting the braking power to the ground). Even with 17% greater weight, I'd expect the Si to stop better.

~SB

 

First, you should get snow tires, preferrably 175/60x16 because they are narrower and plow thru snow easier and apply more pressure on the snow for better traction and they are trifle taller so you have more ground clearance and the 'roll-on' angle is less steep so the tire will ride onto oncoming snow better. Forget any speedo errors.
Second, there are several good snow tires recommended so choose one of those.
Third, seeing where you live you should get a winter set of wheels, preferrably steel ones. 15" or 16" OK and if you get 15" readily available used you can go with 175/70x15 tires.
As far as driving is concerned the Fit is a notorious understeerer so try not to push corners hard. Braking is pretty much a function of tirtes so use tire rack's performance evaluations to decide which tire you'd like.

 

Is anybody putting weight over the rear wheels (yes, I know we're talking front wheel drive) and is there any consensus as to exactly how much.
I'm a bigger guy who will most likely put near an equal amount of weight just behind or on the passenger seat for balance; which I believe is important in a light vehicle (snow/ice or not).
From driving a 2WD full size truck in nasty midwestern winters for many years I've learned two things...tires and proper weight distribution = getting home to see my wife.

 

I think with the position of the gas tank in the middle like it is, the car is already well-balanced. If you put weight in the rear you may be encouraging oversteer in the snow. I've also heard it reduces the effectiveness of front wheel drive... maybe I should do some research on that. I'll get back to you!

 

At TireRack the only tire that comes up in 175/60x16 is a Dunlop. I hate the factory Dunlops and did not like Dunlops on my other car, so it is unlikely I will go with an odd size and be stuck with a Dunlop. I would get the winter wheels, but since I plan on replacing my stock wheels, likely in the spring, I will just mount the winter Blizzaks on my Sport 16 inch wheels in the standard size so I don't have to mess with different coded TPMS sensors.

 

Thank you, sir...I'm running about 290 lbs. all by myself at the moment and again plan on only loading my other gear/emergency items directly by my side or directly behind the passenger seat. That's quite a lot of load up front with a full tank of gas (always) somewhere in the middle...so it would seem to me that 120 lbs. or so of kitty litter/ice melt would balance things out a little and still leave me well below the 850 lb. limit suggested limit (I don't carry passengers).

 

...hauling weight in the winter also strikes home the importance of good quality tires (I'm still not used to the idea of now betting my life on a low profile design)...as you are obviously wanting the tire to safely carry the weight and not be over-inflated for the conditions (more rubber on the road).

 

From what I've heard, there's two conflicting schools of thought on this:
1. Due to the forward weight bias of FWD cars, the rear has a lot less weight than the front, therefore, putting weight in the back of a FWD car will help keep the rear planted and less likely to come loose.
2. Adding weight in the rear of a FWD will make it hard to control if the rear end breaks loose, due to the additional momentum from the extra mass. The extra weight also reduces fuel economy and increases stopping distances.

I don't know which is better, to be honest. However, in my own personal experience, I had a more of a problem with the car understeering (not being able to complete a turn -- I ran into a snow bank and got stuck) than with the rear end coming loose, so I don't plan on carrying any unnecessary weight in the back. I have winter tires this year too, so I'm hoping for a trouble free winter .

 

Gotta agree clicq +1 to you- this will be my first NY winter w/ trips to Northern Maine thrown in.

I'm sort of thinking the Fit was designed to take weight distribution and handling into consideration. Trying to trim it by adding or repositioning weight will only confuse it.

 

I looked those up on TireRack (have been sold on Michelin so far) and couldn't find them in 185/55/16...is there an alternate size that everybody seems to agree upon in a snow tire?(Edit: Tire Rack carries the above tire in 205-50/16)

How about another long-lasting design (is this even possible in regards to these low profile tires?) regardless of cost?

 

I'm guessing that the weight of the driver and all of his gear balanced properly in the front seats has a bearing (again, I'm not 'light' and believe in being prepared when out on the road)...along with how a full gas tank location was designed when considering cargo loads as well.

From the 850 lb. total weight limit; they couldn't have designed this little car with both the former and latter in mind with anything but 'little people' as their test drivers.

Not arguing the point; just wanting to get this right before things start to get serious here in the Great White North.

 

Tire sizes:

 

Thanks for the quote, Krimson.
I also need to thank Blackbeard for making me research the following:

".. I will just mount the winter Blizzaks on my Sport 16 inch wheels in the standard size so I don't have to mess with different coded TPMS sensors."

...as I know nothing about the TPMS having "different coded sensors" or how this will affect my winter wheel selection (gotta love the 'search' function!).

I'm also interested in learning exactly what snow-rated tire lasts the longest. I'm used to Michelin LT type truck tires not only handling it all but lasting 50 to 60,000 miles as well. I may need to get out of the driveway and down the road a ways to where the plows operate; yet I'm probably like most in that I need a well designed all-season with good tread life (vs snow handling) 95% of the winter season.

 

There's a lot more info about winter tires in the winter tires thread over in the Fit Shoes forum, though that's mixed with 1st and 2nd gen owners: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...questions.html

I personally bought a set of 15" steel wheels and Continental ExtremeWinterContact tires in 195/60R15 size, so my speedometer stays accurate. I went with a 15" wheel size because the tires are a little cheaper, and you have more sidewall to help deal with the inevitable pot holes that come up during the winter. Tire Rack will also mount and balance the tires on the wheels for free if you buy them together; this helps to offset the cost of the wheels, though you may be able to find a local tire place that will match Tire Rack's price.

As for the TPMS, if you get another set of wheels without TPMS sensors, you'll just have to stare at a TPMS light all winter -- there's no other ill side effects UNLESS you have a Fit with stability control (VSA); then you lose the ability to turn it off (which could be a problem if you get stuck and need to spin the wheels).

However, you can't just get sensors and call it a day -- the Fit needs to be programmed to recognize the sensors (and when you switch wheels, you'll have to do it again). You can buy a tool to do this, but it's another added expense.

As for which winter tires last the longest, remember that you only use winter tires in the winter, so you're not putting that many miles on them each year, so tire life isn't as big an issue as with all-seasons. At least, I say this now, but I'll be a little sad if the tires don't last me through 4 seasons (~15,000miles).

 

Took your advice clicq and ordered the 15" steel wheels from Discount along with the Michelin X-Ice's in the size you noted and the sensors ($1000 OTD; T/R wanted $925/with sensors; didn't call around).

As for the TPM programming...Discount claimed that they would take care of all issues involving the sensors both on the install and when the stockers went back on in the spring for the life of the tires (also swapped/balanced at no charge).

I have trouble believing that this is possible...yet I've never had problems with them not doing what they've said before and need to get it done. I also like the fact that there's a store in most every large town that I'd ever be in to cover my tire needs most of the time at no charge.

Thanks again!