Getting a new engine. Anyone ever pull it out the top? ESM says out the bottom it must go. But I know some gd3 folks have pulled it out the top. Anyone try with the GE8?

 

I have no idea, but inquiring minds would like to know. A new l15 or... something different?

 

pulling it from the top looks really difficult. imo, the A/C radiator/headlights most of the front end would have to be off to prevent any damage and at that i dont even think theres enough room with the radiator support being there. id say drop it from the bottom. seems easyer.

 

^This



10 char for the loss.

 

Current engine is dying. Best case scenario: rings are fried. Worst case scenario: Pin hole in the piston. Tons of blow-by is geting into the crankcase and exiting out the breather filter. Luckily L15A7s are practially given away for free. Easier to buy a new motor, toss it in, and let the other one sit on an engine stand until there are internals available to upgrade. Of course there is still a slim chance it could be something trivial causing the white smoke to pour out the breather since I haven't done a leakdown test yet. I'm preparing myself for the worst though.

 

Hmm isn't the windshield cowl in the way of an engine extraction from above? The way the windshield cowl eats into the GE's engine bay/hood opening is pretty severe IMO.

Better to pull it from the bottom.

 

I've taken the cowl off so many times now I can do it in 5 minutes flat. Only thing that's really in the way once the cowl is off is the VIN/Chassis number plate which is an extension of the windshield frame. I could cut it off or bend it up.

I should have known something was wrong when I started putting down 0-60 in 7.0 seconds and doing burnouts.

 

drop from the bottom much easier..

 

It would be interesting to know what failed. How much power was it putting out with your mods, and how many miles were on the engine?

 

Is this possibly b/c of the nitrous? Just curious do you have any idea what a/f ratio you are running? Possibly too lean with the nitrous. I think I remember in your other post you said you were running a 55 shot correct?

 

WOOT!! Don't need a new engine! Pulled the plugs and one was fouled. Also my breather filter was soaked in oil probably causing crankcase pressure to increase enough in conjuction with the fouled plug to cause the smoke. Damn Honda engines never die. I was looking forward to having an extra engine to tinker with though.

The nice thing about being a pessismist is that you are always happy when you are wrong. I think I'm going to take out the nitrous for a while though and go back to audio mode.

 

well that's good news on a side note though I don't see anyway possible of getting it out the top. There is a lot more room out the bottom. This week I have installed to engines so far. Last one starts today...man I love this stuff

 

I'm wondering if an R18 would fit in there. That would be a nice balance of power and weight. Open up the exhaust and let it breathe a little bit and you're probably looking at 150 or 160 at the crank with probably not more than 50lbs in weight gain.

~SB

 

BUMP FROM THE GRAVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This thread makes me nostalgic. To think I used to have to pay $40 per 4minutes of nitrous to go slower than I do now . Wonder why my blown HG didn't show up on the compression test back then... oh well.

More importantly, I can now confirm that you CAN remove the engine out the top, even though its not in the ESM. Not only can you, but its a million, billion times easier than going out the bottom, NO CAR LIFT REQUIRED! Going out the top made a week long job, a 4 day job. I could probably do it in 2 now. So if you're just removing the engine, Bend the vin plate up, remove the radiator, belt tensioner, water pulley, alternator, etc. and yank her out (okay, many many steps were omitted), Hell of alot easier than dropping the K member and yanking out axles, trans, etc. It's right there in my sig coming out the top.

Hopefully one day somebody searches for this many years from now and I save them hours and hours of time.

 

Thanks for your post Lyon.

I also just pulled my engine with manual transmission attached from the top. 2008 GE8 right hand drive, manual. (I decided to replace my engine, after a spark plug came loose and blew 60% of the thread out)

I removed the wipers and the plastic cowl and metal shield under it. also removed front bumper, the brace above the radiator and radiator out.

and disconnected everything as per the honda workshop manual but left the subframe on. So basically, clutch slave, shifter cables, water hoses, wiring to the ecu and battery, some air lines, driveshafts, intake, battery tray, transmission mount, loosened brake master res.
For the exhaust i left the cat that connects to the head on, and undid the two spring bolts from that to the rest of the exhaust. I even left the o2 sensor in.

To remove it all..
I used a seatbelt strap and tied it to the most inward part of the bracket that connects to the transmission mount, and the most inward part of the bracket that connects to the timing chain side mount. I also removed the intake manifold so the belt didnt put pressure on it.

then connected an engine crane to to the belt in the middle, and slowly jacked it up while also pulling it a bit forward.


when installing i connected transmission mount first... then the timing side mount, and then the rear mount. obviously make sure the stuff that needs to be on top (like shifter cables) is move to the top of the engine while lowering it.

 

Almost all Honda engines are removed from the bottom side. Why make your life harder?

 

In a home garage, with an engine crane.. its easier to take it out from the top.

Not having to remove the subframe makes it easier too.

The point of my post was: that its possible and fairly easy to remove it from the top. Given the honda workshop manual says to remove it from the bottom, people might wonder (like i did) if removing it from the top is possible.

 

​​​​​​When I pulled the tranny to get the old clutch out I could barely fit it out of the bottom! Had to sit it on my legs and slide out. Some bigger jack stands (the 6 tons) could maybe get it up enough, but I'd prolly want two jacks to raise it that way, or drive it onto ramps, jack the rear way up, stands, then jack the front and remove ramps so that the car isnt changing angle too dramatically on one end. Even so, I dont think I could throw the engine around as easy as the tranny and would prefer to use the crane. I appreciate your filling us in!

 

hey man i was wondering if you left the transmission in car or pulled it with the motor?? Thanks in advance

 

manual transmission was still connected to motor