My thoughts exactly.

 

I'm on a mobile device...but I seem to recall all the dyno graphs posted were SAE corrected so that should've fixed a low read from the K&N camp. All the graphs should be within 5 whp of each other if correctly SAE adjusted.

 

butt dyno is telling me somethin on both hack and prm... placebo? can't wait to put numbers... still trying to fit a schedule to hit the dyno.

i am missing the diy low grunt tone and this has been confirmed with 2 friends of mine. hear those sweet tones you hear from a G35 exhaust? it's that kind of sound. the all rubber top and base on the aFe filter + the abs plastic and silicone couplers should be most responsible for this effect... love it.

as stated, the prm gives off mid-tones and non of the low tone grunt of my diy. i believe that the prm's construction with aluminum pipe and plastic tube housing of the reverse filter gives it this resonating mid/higher tones.

 

Do you have an exhaust? I have the $65 DIY axle-back. The PRM accentuated the DIY low end purr...but I agree the sound is more prominent in the mid and high RPMs.

 

i'll post graphs later... i'm on my phone atm

 

It's always good to dyno for yourself. There are plenty of ways to "cheat" the dyno, and every car is different.

 

this topic is a bit off as it pertains to sound levels but here's the quick in-cabin set and test of the sound/freq levels.
I do have an axle back installed, tanabe touring medallion (supposed to be the most discrete in it's category).

this is how intake + tanabe touring medallion sounds like in-cabin...
***for reference... refer to the frequency sweep HERE...

diy+tanabe touring m prm+tanabe touring m

diy+tanabe touring m prm+tanabe touring m

quick look at the graphs shows you how smooth the diy+tanabe touring medallion compared to the prm+tanabe combo. you can also see the low-tone-grunt that i was talking about on the diy and how smooth the curves are.
looking at the prm+tanabe, you can see the prominent mid-tone i was referring to. the dips in the lower frequency translates to the "loss of low-tone grunt". the sound curve on the prm is not as smooth and transient as that of the diy.

remember... these are inconclusive tests as no proper setup of cabin was made... maybe a thread on it's own when i get to properly eq the cabin and do proper tests

 

Will be interesting to see how the db curves compare to the hp curves...

 

YES!!! exactly... this really turned out to be fun

 

Finally, I'll be watching this thread to see if these intakes actually do anything.

 

fyi, should note that not all dynos read the same =x

 

tagged for interest

 

They should if they've been SAE corrected....

 

I've seen sae corrected numbers from the same dyno show + or - 5hp which is fine on a 300 hp foxbody that gets 25hp gains from an xpipe. The only 'real' way to test gains this small is: raw numbers, run stock, run mod, run stock, run mod. 4 pulls within a short time frame same atmospheric conditions not sae corrected. I am extremely skeptical as well when these dynos show EVEN increases across the powerband. Thats more indicative of normal dyno variation. PRM and Takeda look VERY legit. Weapon R looks like standard dyno variation. Not even to say that their product is not legit. I personally will be buying their 'header' very soon if I can get a good price. I'll certainly write a review if I install it. Even if there are no gains for NA, I expect gains when I reinstall the magic go go juice (n2o) in the spring or maybe if I ever get the capital for rotex glory. We shall see. My unrealistic hope is that I can richen the LTFs with my VTEC override and counterbalance it with a header that would traditionally lean things out. Dreaming is free.

 

What truly interests me is the breathing problems above 5k. It shows in the torque curves. Honestly, I look at them and think "Is this even a Honda? Have they truly given in to the lowest common denominator that doesnt like to wind out the engine?" So where is the restriction? Heads, Valves, Cam, Fuel MAP, Exhaust, Intake Manifold? My personal guess is Intake Manifold. Those runners are LONG. Long is great for low to mid torque but not so great for high rpms. Anybody remember the splitport 3.8s, 4.0s, and 4.2s that ford used to make ala Windstar, Mustang, and F150? Same concept.

 

I may have missed it as well but I'm not seeing where it states if these all are for 5sp or Autos. Most Manufacturers will choose 5sp for marketing reasons but if we get these off of other random locations, you never know.

What we need is a chart that shows the following across the top:
Brand/Type: K&N SRI | PRM SRI | etc...
and down the side:
max HP
Max Torque
ambient temp
Stock HP
Stock Torque
ambient Temp
Dyno Type: jet/pack
Vehicle (5mt/5at)

This will allow everyone to compare directly.

a few things I noticed about the K&N: it doesn't show the Max power but the power at 6000 rpm. also the ambient temperature increases by a fair amount and it's a 2nd gear run.

~SB

 

Well, it's all we have for the moment. I'm pretty sure most of us know how to really dyno a car. I'd say that intakes make 3-5 whp or so on average. I don't think it's really worth getting too into it if there is only +/- a horsepower or two in that figure. Some more extensive dynos from people on this board would be cool though!

 

I disagree. I've said this multiple times but people still don't get it....not every bolt-on you throw on your engine will produce gains. THIS INCLUDES INTAKES!! Some will produce gains, some losses, and some will be neutral. Some that produce gains at the top of the power band will kill power low to mid range resulting in a very poor driving car (i.e. area under the curve is reduced).

Modified magazine illustrated this beautifully in a Tech article many months ago.

 

I'm saying they all gain some power. I think that's safe to state. Let's say under the curve power, not ultimate horsepower then. The other mods you have on there will effect that obviously. I really don't see how that is the case with intakes. Show me one that has no evidence it makes any power, otherwise, I'm not really following you with regards to this particular topic. Bolt-ons in general, yeah maybe.

 

I'm saying they MIGHT not all gain power. The bolded quote above leads me to believe this part is confusing you. You really need to understand AUC (area under the curve) if you're interested in this topic....AUC is the whole reason dyno power is displayed in this format, rather than an absolute number. Max HP is really not a meaningful number.

If you're having trouble following then you should read up more on the topic. Try k20a.org or one of the various tuner mag's tech or power pages section.