For my '09 Base Fit, when re-torquing the drain plug with a new crush washer, what should the torque be set at? I'll be doing my own changes from now on. I let CarMax do it this time, as it was a freebie. They agreed it should have been done before I got the car, only showed 20% oil life, and they rotated tires as well. Fast friendly service, except they were too inept to use the correct viscosity, and they're putting crap CarQuest filters on - uggghhh!!! . Probably no harm, I'll get rid of it in 3000 miles and switch to Mobil 1 full synthetic and a Honda filter. At least this was on the house. Normally they get $38 for a basic oil change, ridiculous! The statement clearly showed that 5W-30 was used, obviously can't read the oil fill cap either. At least they didn't blindly dump in 5 quarts like the previous service clown. Checked it when I took delivery and it was overfilled somewhat. I'm also considering switching to a K&N flat filter, keeping the stock airbox intact. My latest gas mileage readings have been less than encouraging, to say the least. On a 170 mile highway trip this weekend, running 75-80, no A/C, the mileage monitor showed 41.3. Thought I was really doing great. Wrong! At fillup I calculated the actual number at 32.537, 5.249 gals burned for 170.8 miles. I had the factory Dunnys at 38 psi cold. What a disappointment. My old Civic AT would sometimes get 35-36 highway, same 1.5L. Something's gotta give here!

 

2-fingers torque setting. Use a torque wrench and you'll probably strip your oil pan threads.

 

29 ft-lbs.

 

FWIW....mileage really drops off at 80. Correct oil viscosity oil will help. Look at the max pressure rating on the tire sidewall and pump them up to 90% of that.

 

A precise torque wrench setting prevents stripping threads. It also flattens the washer seal the correct amount. It's definitely more accurate than a "2-fingers torque setting" whatever that is.

 

39 nm would be the magic number

 

EPA says highway 35 for autobox, 33 for manual, so if you're driving a manual, it seems you're hitting that estimate. If you've got an automatic, sounds like something is a little off. Variations in gas including the pretty much standard E10 everywhere lowers the MPG a bit too.

Note that EPA test loop includes the extra variables you described such as driving faster and with AC on.
If you hypermile it, you might get better results.

Regarding the computer calculations, did you get the software update that supposedly corrects the calculations (TSB info in the sticky)

 

+1, there's no way you'll strip the threads unless you have no idea what you're doing with the torque wrench. 29 ft-lbs. FTW

 

Issue on oil pans is more of cross threading than stripping. Gorilla it and you will strip them as well. With the crush washer you can 'feel' tight. A real good reason for having them.

geomarathoner
I can agree with everything up to the tire pressure advice. 3-4psi over recommended door jamb sticker will provide the best return in economy regarding tires. With my 2010 I can feel a definite loosening up in the handling above 38psi at highway speeds. Not safe.

I've learned to set the pressure to the 'highway hot' at 36psi. Everything else takes care of its self. But this thread is about oil plugs.... tons of other threads regarding tires and tire pressures.

 

haven't done the mileage monitor tsb software update yet. i calculate it is 22 percent off, that's a lot. the car is an automatic, cruising at 75 i see 2600 on the tach, and the monitor showing steady @ 41.3. i am also due for the lost-motion spring tsb inspect/replace. i do notice a mild ticking but doesn't sound bad. and yes the ethanol additives do absolutely nothing to help mileage or lower emissions. on the subject of oil and breaking in, how long do you like to stay with dino oil before switching to synthetic, to allow sufficient break-in friction? and go with 3k changes until synthetic maybe?

 

You open up a big can of worms whenever you mention oil or oilchange intervals. Find other threads for discussion on this dead horse.

Many people have been fine to go with what Honda recommends which is down to 15% (or 0%) MM cycle (approx 12,500miles) both on initial factory fill and subsequent changes (either conv. or synth).
If you do a different interval, it's your car and up to you.
Some will say it's fine and beneficial, others will say it's a waste of money.

For the first fill, Honda does say do not change "early". Again some people have changed as early as 1000miles due to perceived benefits of "getting the metal out" and report they are "fine".

Honda doesn't really document how early is too early, as they combine the recommendation for breaking-in with the full lifecycle of the oil even though breakin process and oil life are 2 distinct things.

Personally I don't drive the Fit that much, so changed based on time at 1year, 6000miles. I know the oil is still "good" at 6000miles, but assumed breakin is completed after that time. I wanted to switch over to M1 0w-20 AFE for the miniscule fuel savings sooner rather than later as compared to being frightened over metal shavings.

 

I dont think I've ever used a torque wrench on a drain bolt...

 

Back to the main topic......when oil pans were all made of stamped steel, torque was not all that important when replacing the drain plug. Stamped steel is slightly flexible and you could feel it "give" just slightly if you overtightened the plug. A lot of people used a breaker bar "to be sure it don't leak" and all was okay.

Today, however, oil pans are usually made of cast aluminum and not stamped steel. If you grossly overtorque the plug, there is no slight "give"......it will just break. Then you are screwed.

What I do with a new car is to use a torque wrench the first few times, just to get myself "calibrated" and then freehand it from then on. It's true that you can feel a fresh drain plug gasket compress just a little, if you pay close attention.

On most (not all) other fasteners on a car, I use a torque wrench just about every time....like it was done when the car was first assembled at the factory.

 

2 fingers what ?

my shop manual says 29 lb-ft with gasket but even 35 lb-ft is OK. And yes, if you don't have calibrated muscles use a torque wrench.