Installed Mugen Axleback Exhaust Last Night
#1
Installed Mugen Axleback Exhaust Last Night
I know there are other Mugen exhaust related threads, but I wanted to make a few observations on the process.
The OE muffler was easy to remove at the flange. (Should be - the car has only 11 miles on it: just delivered 12/19 - 2012 OBM M/T Sport.) A bit more difficult getting it off the rubber hangers. I used a fat screw driver, (is there a tool for this?) but it was quite a struggle, despite having the car up on ramps - something I highly recommend vs. stands, and NEVER just a jack, floor or otherwise. Maybe it was just my difficulty with the hangers but the car shook quite a bit as I struggled to remove them. You certainly want the car secure throughout the process!
Reversing the procedure was a bit more difficult at the flange since the separate nuts supplied with the Mugen were very hard to thread onto the spring bolts, likely designed that way to insure they stay put, I suppose! I think the torque recommendation was 16 lb/ft, which is probably what it takes. Additionally, before removing the OE muffler I measured the gap between flanges and kept the same for the Mugen. On the OE muffler, the nuts are welded to the flange - much easier to work with.
No problem reinstalling at the rubber hangers. I recommend a drop or two of liquid soap to make them slide on easier - wish I had thought of that when trying to get them off!
Total time: about 1.5 hours. The final fitment was spot on: no adjustment necessary.
I started it up to take it down off the ramps: what a sweet sound - worth the struggle and expense. I hope to post pic's soon, maybe even a quick video with sound to YouTube.
The OE muffler was easy to remove at the flange. (Should be - the car has only 11 miles on it: just delivered 12/19 - 2012 OBM M/T Sport.) A bit more difficult getting it off the rubber hangers. I used a fat screw driver, (is there a tool for this?) but it was quite a struggle, despite having the car up on ramps - something I highly recommend vs. stands, and NEVER just a jack, floor or otherwise. Maybe it was just my difficulty with the hangers but the car shook quite a bit as I struggled to remove them. You certainly want the car secure throughout the process!
Reversing the procedure was a bit more difficult at the flange since the separate nuts supplied with the Mugen were very hard to thread onto the spring bolts, likely designed that way to insure they stay put, I suppose! I think the torque recommendation was 16 lb/ft, which is probably what it takes. Additionally, before removing the OE muffler I measured the gap between flanges and kept the same for the Mugen. On the OE muffler, the nuts are welded to the flange - much easier to work with.
No problem reinstalling at the rubber hangers. I recommend a drop or two of liquid soap to make them slide on easier - wish I had thought of that when trying to get them off!
Total time: about 1.5 hours. The final fitment was spot on: no adjustment necessary.
I started it up to take it down off the ramps: what a sweet sound - worth the struggle and expense. I hope to post pic's soon, maybe even a quick video with sound to YouTube.
Last edited by JoeB; 12-21-2011 at 10:33 AM.
#2
Nice. It's nice to start something like that with a fresh car - only 11 miles is as fresh as it gets. After a couple winters those bolts tend to get a bit rusty. I've done exhaust installs on various cars, and the easiest way to get those rubber hangers free from the flanges is to use some silicone on them. Oil will degrade rubber, so don't use that. Spray the silicone on there, let it sit for a while, and those flanges are much easier to pull free. It also makes installing the new exhaust way easy, because the hanger is lubed up already. Smooth like butter.
Now you just have to post some pics! Enjoy it. Over time it will start to sound more aggressive, too, as it goes through some heat cycles.
Now you just have to post some pics! Enjoy it. Over time it will start to sound more aggressive, too, as it goes through some heat cycles.
#3
Nice. It's nice to start something like that with a fresh car - only 11 miles is as fresh as it gets. After a couple winters those bolts tend to get a bit rusty. I've done exhaust installs on various cars, and the easiest way to get those rubber hangers free from the flanges is to use some silicone on them. Oil will degrade rubber, so don't use that. Spray the silicone on there, let it sit for a while, and those flanges are much easier to pull free. It also makes installing the new exhaust way easy, because the hanger is lubed up already. Smooth like butter.
Now you just have to post some pics! Enjoy it. Over time it will start to sound more aggressive, too, as it goes through some heat cycles.
Now you just have to post some pics! Enjoy it. Over time it will start to sound more aggressive, too, as it goes through some heat cycles.
#6
I did it the easy way. Watched my Dodge dealer put the Fit on hoist and 1/2 hr (15 minutes or less to do install and 15 to pay) later I was driving home with my HKS on and the original in the box.
Cost?? $29.
Cost?? $29.
#7
LOL, that is, indeed, the easiest way.
#8
I highly doubt theres any performance gains. I'd get it for the sound if it wasn't so expensive, as all Mugen parts are.
#9
Honestly, about half way into trying to figure how to get the muffler off the hangers, and then later when trying to secure the flange bolts, I was seriously thinking I'm to old for this - should've had someone else do it!
But it works, sounds and looks great and, best of all, it didn't fall off on the way to work this morning....
#10
Agreed. A few years ago I had a Nuespeed cat-back system installed on my previous '98 Jetta GLX. Sounded and looked great, no noticible difference in performance, but improved mileage by an extra 2 mpg - like saving a gallon on each fill-up. At $3+ per gallon, while it didn't exactly pay for itself, it did save me a few bucks.
#11
Agreed. A few years ago I had a Nuespeed cat-back system installed on my previous '98 Jetta GLX. Sounded and looked great, no noticible difference in performance, but improved mileage by an extra 2 mpg - like saving a gallon on each fill-up. At $3+ per gallon, while it didn't exactly pay for itself, it did save me a few bucks.
#12
Can't tell yet: still on my first tank of gas from the dealer - I think I just turned the odo to 50 miles this morning! I'll post again about this in a few months.
#13
Nice. It's nice to start something like that with a fresh car - only 11 miles is as fresh as it gets. After a couple winters those bolts tend to get a bit rusty. I've done exhaust installs on various cars, and the easiest way to get those rubber hangers free from the flanges is to use some silicone on them. Oil will degrade rubber, so don't use that. Spray the silicone on there, let it sit for a while, and those flanges are much easier to pull free. It also makes installing the new exhaust way easy, because the hanger is lubed up already. Smooth like butter.
Now you just have to post some pics! Enjoy it. Over time it will start to sound more aggressive, too, as it goes through some heat cycles.
Now you just have to post some pics! Enjoy it. Over time it will start to sound more aggressive, too, as it goes through some heat cycles.
As promised, a few pictures:
#17
Hmmmm you indicated that there were threads on the subject but you had some things to add. It is two bolts (always torque to proper specs) two rubber hangers ( lubrication eases friction) oh and ramps are safer than stands( flat ground is safest. Ramps or jackstands be sure to put the car in gear. Thanks for passing on your knowledge of automobile modification !
#18
I think at stock height you may even be able to just creep under there, not too sure though. And to get the rubber hangers off you can also use dish soap and push up on the muffler to relieve the tension on the hangers so the holes expand...'tis what I did.