I admit I do like having the heliums on there for winter wheels. Its like having a bit of both worlds. But, the heliums I got on a straight trade because it appears the previous owner hopped a curb with them. 3 of the wheels have some sort of dent on them. I did check the runout on the balancer and they seem to run true. So far, no leaks and no vibration, I think I got a good trade. Plus the honda center caps match perfectly

But honestly I can't wait to test fit my summer wheels and see it tucking on 0 offset. To each their own!

 

Moar lows next chance I get to work on it.

 

Awesome Fit! Easily the best GE base model I've seen.

Personally I think it would look even better with the '12 Sport black headlights...

 

Nice wheel setup. I see the specs on the tires but what are the complete specs on the wheels? 15x#? and offset? Thanks!

 

OMG, those images are fantastic, dude! Obviously, a labor of love.
Thanks for sharing them.

 

The new rims look nice. Nice mods btw, great pics!!! +reps.
Gotta get that splash shield.

Wish I knew you wanted to get rid of the pie-cutters, I'm seriously thinking of trading my GE8 sport rims for those LX rims (and use them for winter).

I need a lift in my personal garage...

 

Thanks for the comment! Hmm maybe something to consider. I would get cost on them.. Not enough of a difference to warrant at least a couple hundy to me haha.


Thanks most people think it's not possible to fit this size on our fit without major mods. They are 15x8 0mm.

 

Thanks man! Yes I do love my little fit. I just got a canon t2i rebel. Love it so far, takes awesome photos.


Haha yes I think everyone needs the crz shield. I still have the xxrs, heliums just for winter.

Yeah but my winters were 15" so I couldn't have used the sport 16s for my winter wheels

Lifts are a god send haha. I built two turbo civics including full color change paint on one in the unheated garage on the floor so I am grateful every day for having access to hoists in a warm shop now lol.

 

Thanks for the info!

Just curious but why did you decide to go with 0mm offset and not 20mm offset? Was there a certain look you were going for? Is it that you wanted a 3' lip and not a 2.5' lip?

 

aghghg looks so good
your making me wanna invest in some lower offset wheels now
and i will probably be doing the skid plate mod aswell this summer

 

Yes I was going for the deep dish look. My previous 15x8 wheels were + 15 and had 3" step lip. These 0mm have 3.5" step lip. For my next wheels I would consider 9" wide with a slightly higher staggered offsets like + 15 front and + 10 rear maybe? Maybe 16" too. Still have to look into it. I think I'll just get dialed on the xxrs this summer though. I'm trying to make the next set of wheels coincide with when I paint the car so any fitment bodywork can get taken care of at the same time.

Everyone should have a little lip lol. But some people just hate that look lol. Doesnt bother me though haters gonna hate.

Thanks again everyone for the feedback, ill be sure to continue posting my progress.

 

Oops I missed this little doozy. Thanks for the flattery man.

 

I had a bit of a crisis today.

Not satisfied with how low the car was sitting after the initial install and adjustment, I wanted to lower it further. I found that this was a little bit difficult, mainly in the front. I was already at the point of having to preload the spring in order to provide threads on the shock tube that I could then rotate down into the lower mount. It seemed that no matter how much I preloaded the spring and then lowered it into the mount, it just would not get lower when I put it on the ground. I measured ground to top of fender wheel before and after, and after many attempts in some cases the ride height even went up slightly.

My only theory to this is that by preloading the spring I am increasing the amount of weight needed to lower the car onto the wheels, or in other words to sag. So even though I was indeed shortening the strut, it simply did not sag as much as before and basically compensated for the amount that I had shortened the strut. And in some cases over-compensated resulting in the slightly raised ride height after an adjustment that by all logic should have resulted in a lower ride height.

A co-worker informed me that on his F&F type 2's there was an option for a 200mm spring and a 160mm spring, him having the shorter springs. I have already inquired with F2autolife and they do not offer any other spring sets for the GE8.

GOING BACK. At my initial install, I noted that the tops of the struts all had the small allen bolt in the shaft that the knob fits into and makes adjustments with. [As opposed to the one-piece allen bolt at the top of a regular strut] I was not comfortable with using this smaller allen bolt as a holding point to stop the struts from spinning in the body as I tightened down the 17mm mounting nuts. This was however necessary, as the nuts provided in the kit featured the nylon insert in the end that increases the resistance and forms a tighter fit. This tighter fit immediately causes the shafts to spin. Therefore I opted out of the nylon insert nut and went for a regular 17mm nut without the nylon insert [on all 4 struts] which made it not necessary to hold the shaft from spinning.

So. Today, after making a few more adjustments to the ride height, on the drive home I found that I had a knock coming from the passengers front strut. I knew for a fact I had torqued up all the hardware in the wheel well, as well as the lock rings on the strut itself. On a hunch, when I got home I removed the small access panel on the wiper cowl and felt the 17mm mounting nut, and I was able to remove it with my fingers. My theory is that by spinning the shock body down into the lower mount, the shaft stayed in line with it and essentially spun itself out of the nut.

Whatever the case, that is now something I will be re-checking the torque on after any sort of adjustment to the ride height.

 

You my friend i think just solved my issue. I will be checking my nut to see if its loose, no pun intended, this weekend. After adjusting the coilovers several times, I too started to notice a very quiet knock. One that only I could feel through the steering wheel as I was turning the steering to the right while getting out of first gear. Were you experience this too?

 

Haha well let me know. After tightening the RF 17mm nut and road testing, sure enough the knock was gone. Driving silently I thought I detected a minor intermittent but similar knock from the rear, so I'll check the 14mm nuts in the rear shocks after work today too.

 

how did you mount the front and rear tow hooks?

 

The front installation I show in pictures on the first page. The rear.. is my little secret. I have since removed the rear to paint the towhook and it just has never gone back on. Maybe when I install it again I'll post it up.

 

On a more related note, I have since lowered the car approximately another inch since the last posted photos. When I finally get the chance I will post moar pics of the stance.

 

Couldn't you double nut it? since you don't want to use the nylon nuts. I use the little allan key to hold it in place on my wife's with no problems, mind you she has Apex coilovers. Anyway your car is coming out great I'm looking into Typetwo so please keep use posted.

 

Ahh I could double nut it! I didn't even think of that. i will have to try that. Thanks man. I will for sure keep you all up to date. I'm really itching to test fit my summer wheels. I'm 99.9% sure the rear quarters are gonna just sit on the tires haha. Good thing I have access to an eastwood roller.. and a body shop har har har.