Hello so its time for me to do my transmission drain wanted to know if anyone running Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid For the Fit

would like to know people opinions on this

also how many bottles will i need to do this


Last question am i ok to refill from the dip stick this is a AT 2012 fit sport

 

I've run a bunch of Amsoil products in a ton of cars. Never ran the ATF though as mine have been manuals So far I have no complaints with either the Signature series engine oil or the Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid 5W-30. I'd say go for it!

 

so i just do the basic drain and refill ??? with the amsoil or complete clean out ?

 

well since no one talk im buying 1 gallon

 

there are a couple schools of thought on this but bottom line it's your car.

1) the entire transmission contains about 10qts. A drain and fill will exchange and require about 3quarts.

1a) Or you can perform a drain/fill and exchange 3quarts

1b) You can perform a more complete fluid exchange and detaching certain hoses and draining out more fluid than the 3qts. Or like bleeding brakes, just putting new fluid and taking old fluid out until you run through the amount you want to put through.

1c)You can also get this done as a service by calling around for shops with a T-tec fluid exchanger. Often this is at quick-lube type shops.


2) It's your choice on the technique.
The drain fill is arguably easier then an oil change, and yes you can refill through the dipstick hole (if you have a fluid extractor (mityvac) you can also "drain" through the dipstick too and not even jack up the car). There is a couple DIY threads with pictures and discussion on this- search dw-1.
Honda;s maintenance monitor thinks 1 drain/fill is good enough every 30k miles to refresh the fluid.
If your fluid is in good condition, I'd go with just the drain/fill technique.

Iif you have destroyed your fluid, you may want to exchange more of the fluid. There is also the tradeoff of skill/time versus saving fluid.

It is far easier to just do 3-4 drain/fills (perhaps over time), even if you waste fluid, versus paying for t-tec service, or figuring out which hoses to detach.

3) It's also your choice on the fluid. I don't think anyone here has tried the amsoil fluid. Most people have just stuck with Honda DW-1.
If you buy a case it's not too expensive. There is also the theory that if you're concerned about fluid going bad, just do more frequent drain/fills instead of buying more expensive fluid.

 

<3 thank u so much


im buying 1 gallon doing a simple drain and refill thank u

mines not destroyed yet but its light brown so gonna change it im at 25k so yeah

I will refill it threw the dip stick but drain threw the drain bolt

also will have a measure cup to make sure how much comes out


THanks so much also i have 25% off the whole year threw amsoil so mine is well use it

 

Ive read that aftermarket fluids dont work well on the fit automatics. Something about harsh 1st gear engagements. After dealing with that for a few thousand miles they switched back to honda fluid and the issue went away.

Im pretty sure I saw it here on fitfreak. I think it was in the high mileage thread, its dated a year or so ago

 

It's a shame that car mfgs. don't put a converter drain plug in the torque converters. Up at least until the late 70's Ford had plugs, and you could drain all the fluid.

On GM cars we would use a special jig to drill and tap for a drain plug.
If the fluid has changed color and or smells funky, I would find a way to drain it all, as well as changing the filter.

Adding 4 qts of oil to 6 qts of dirty oil doesn't make sense.
I've been away from auto mechanics for lots of years, and not sure how it would be done to replace all the fluid, on newer cars.
Glad I bought a m/t Fit.

I have always had good luck changing my trans fluid (a/t) when it changed color. regardless of mileage. Our 2002 Toyota Tacoma has 130,000 miles and the fluid looks new. And that was with towing a 3000 # trailer 6,500 miles. With trans cooler of course.
If I had a a/t car or truck, I would install an extra trans cooler, even if not towing, and just watch the trans fluid color and smell.

If just changing part of the fluid, I would sure use the same type fluid.

Auto trans fluid doesn't get contaminated by by combustion byproducts, like motor oil. It goes bad from transmission slippage and clutch wear.
Someone mentioned harsh shifts with some type fluid. The degree of harshness determines if it would hurt the trans. When we would service or rebuild a a/t, if we could, we would do certain mods, to make it shift a bit harder. Harder shifts, mean the clutches in the trans were slipping less. Less slippage meant less clutch wear, and longer fluid/trans life. Just like a manual trans. Slip the clutch a lot, and the clutch wears out sooner.

 

The manual is pretty insistent about using Honda ATF. They have a newer spec fluid (DW-1) that has helped in my older Fit (smoother shifts, less noise). I'd be skeered to put anything but Honda's recommended fluid in it. I'm cheap but even paying more, I'll go with Honda's advice on this.

Honda says to do it cold and it will take 2.6 quarts (out of 6.2 total). Have 4 quarts on hand. Here's a long thread on the subject.

 

On my old Del Sol auto, I drained and refilled the tranny 3 times about 50 miles of city driving apart. First drain coffee with a hint of cherry, second drain was chery mocha, and third drain was cherry with a hint of coffe

Was going to do a 4th and final drain and refill, but the transmission started to perform just BEAUTIFUL after the second drain, and was perfect after the third.


its expensive, but please, change your tranny fluid at a MAXIMUM of 50k miles. Your very long living-capable tranny will show its affection. Then you dont have to do multiple drain and refills ever, unless you are going to give your car to your son/daughter. Then it deserves a drain and refill till clean in appearance

 

Ughh Ill just use OEM then thank u


ill just run amsoil motor oil then

 

You dont need fancy motor oil. Especially since Honda is giving you synthetic 0w-20 anyways. Give your car whatever meets standard.

Why make your engine oil changes over $70? $39 oil change and filter at the dealership

 

GD3 owner I know just rolled 200K in his '07 AT Sport. He runs Amsoil signature series, ignores the maintenance minder and only changes it once a year. He drives the car A LOT, and even does a few AutoX. He has done 2 valve adjustments and the car shows near no signs of wear in the upper valve train. THAT is why I run Amsoil.

Also, I PUSH my car regularly to the raised redline. That is a lot of additional stress so I use an oil formulated for those types of conditions.

Also, 0W-20 Signature series is listed at $10.55 per quart retail. x4 = 42.20 + 13.99 (the most expensive K&N Wrench off Filter stocked at an O'Rileys) still only equals less than $60... and you can do that once a year.

 

yeah i push mines pretty hard that y im going to run the motor oil dnt mind spending to save my motor

tranny on the ither hand owell it blows it blows i found one hope my friend dnt sell it its from a 2011 with 16k on it
said he would give to me for 675 lol so said save it for me

just wanted to know about the tranny but seeing that most people say no owell ill just use oem

 

I didnt realize this was a <> contest of who would go the longest on expensive oil


Save yourself the money. Just because hes lying about how often he changes oil doesnt mean Amsoil is awesome.

Hell, I ran supertech 10w-30 synthetic in my crx, being pushed over 300whp. Autocrossed it several times, beat the crap out of it. Never an issue with 6k oil change intervals. Fully stock D16A6 engine and valvetrain. People always told me the D series crapped over 200whp fully stock. Not so if you have a good talented tuner.

I sent in 4 oil samples the first year after the turbo install. Never a bad report. They recommended trying 8k mile intervals for changes




Bottom line, you are not stressing your honda by hitting the high revs. Honda started with motorcycle engines way back when. They still put the love of high revs in every engine they produce or partner into their cars. Especially the K series which has GM background

 

i still change my oil at 10k tops no matter what idc

i Love D series

 

I have a different perspective on the above 2 points.

For point (1). If you let your ATF go so bad that the remaining ATF is really messed up already, you are already f'ed. It's a catch-22 to need to drain all the fluid. People who would need that service due to degraded fluid, wouldn't maintain their car anyway.

Similarly, the majority of people who are picky to use a specific synthetic or boutique oils usually over maintain their cars and are the ones who actually need synthetic fluid the least.

For point (2). Similar to motor oil, the ATF color change does not always indicate degradation. This is notorious especially for z1 fluid. Smell yes, color not so much.

 

No contest, and no lies just facts.

The GD owner is a personal friend and I KNOW he does not lie.

I grew up racing 5hp OHV Honda powered carts. We ran high quality Mobile1 synthetics and on multiple tear downs never had any signs of wear.

I currently own 5 Honda bikes and have gone through many more. My '77 400F revs to 10K to find power and I am all too aware of how Honda revolutionized the 4 stroke motorcycle industry by making smaller engines that rev'd higher. I am well acquainted with things like the '66 R166. 20K rpm and 65hp from a 6 cyl 250cc.

Quality oil makes a difference no matter what. There is nothing wrong with a Honda oil change at $39. They will use a synthetic oil, its OEM. But, I have proof that an alternate oil can be driven nearly 30K over the course of a year on the Amsoil product with no issues what so ever. This is why I recommend it.

My personal case applies to near no one else. Running my Fit up to a 1.5K higher redline does increase friction exponentially. I am also running a significantly more aggressive tune that 99% of Fit owners. I had switched to an 0W-20 and saw some dyo'd gains, but after long trips and large race events (more than 750 miles and 10+ runs with high WOT runs and repeat 2nd gear redlines) I noticed I was burning some oil. I am planning to run a 5W-20 race oil now. I change my oil every 3.5K or when the Maintenance minder hit's 10%, whatever comes first.

Oil is the life blood of a car. What's an extra $20? Cheap insurance if you ask me.

 

CHeap Insurance is what i need lol

 

I'm almost certain I remember reading and coming across Amsoil being the only fluids approved by Honda aside from OEM fluids. I think you'll be fine running Amsoil, its not like they turn out crap products anyway.