Here are a couple of helpful torque specs for the GE 09-13' in one tidy package.

Wheel Lug Nut: 80 ftlbs

Intake Manifold to Head: 17 ftlbs
Intake Manifold to Intake Plenum: 17 ftlbs
Throttle Body to Intake Plenum: 17 ftlbs
Valve Cover: 7.2 ftlbs
Rocker Arm Assembly: 11 ftlbs, 11th bolt at the back of head is 7.2 ftlbs

Timing Cover: 8mm= 23 ftlbs, 6mm= 8.8 ftlbs
Water Pump Pulley to Water Pump: 12 ftlbs

Piston Rod Bolts: Apply engine oil to threads
Step 1. 7.2 ftlbs
Step 2. 90 degrees

Head Bolts: Apply engine oil to threads
Step 1. 22 ftlbs
Step 2. 130 degrees

Oil Pan Bolts: 8.8 ftlbs



Valve Adjustment Clearance:
Intake: .15-.19mm
Exhaust: .26-.30mm
Valve Adjuster Lock Nuts: 10 ftlbs


If there are more specs you need, let me know and I will edit.

 

Nice work looking up and posting those.

 

Thanks, and great job!

 

Great info. Can someone please post torque specs for suspension?

 

I will. Is there something you are looking for in specific?

 

I am thinking about either going coilovers or Swift springs on my 2009, so the top and bottom torques for the front strut and rear shocks would be great!

TIA!

 

hey I'm about to switch out and install some new enkei lug nuts from my old lug nuts for my rims. if I'm just switching the lug nuts and not taking off the wheel do i have to lift the car up on jacks??

 

I would. I suppose you could switch them one at a time (leave the other three nuts on that wheel tight while you change one), but you're going to put stress on the remaining three nuts. Best to be safe and jack it up.

 

I don't see any reason to expect unusual stress on anything with the car sitting still with one lug nut removed. Driving could possibly cause stress with one lug nut off. I would change one by one with the car on the ground.


Clifton

 

de36: could you please add the two common specs that I use a lot, but also always seem to forget. oil drain plug and transmission drain plug.

 

From the Fit shop manual.
Engine drain plug, 29 lb. ft.
Manual transmission drain plug, 29 lb. ft.
Automatic transmission drain plug, 36, lb. ft.


Clifton

 

Thanks, Clifton. Torque specifications is a good Sticky.

 

Do you happen to know the torque specs on the exhaust bolts? I'm changing my exhaust to a Megan racing exhaust and didn't know if I should use the stock torque specs or contact Megan for theirs.

Nice thread, btw, very helpful.

 

The stock exhaust to the under floor converter nuts torque is 25, lb. ft.

Exhaust pipe to muffler torque is 16, lb. ft.

If your replacement exhaust uses stock hardware I would use stock torque values.

Clifton

 

Thanks a lot! This helps me out a ton.

 

I've replaced the rear disks and disk pads on a 2009 Honda Jazz (the UK version of the Fit) with the help of youtube videos - i.e.
(front disks on Honda Fit)
(back disks on possibly a Honda Fit)
The first video shows that on the front wheels the complete unit is held in place by two 17mm bolts (which need a torque of around 80 ft/lbs) and that the calliper unit is attached to this with two 12mm bolts( 16 ft/lbs).

On my car I found that the rear disk unit (that I had to move to install the new disks) was held in place by two 14mm bolts (i.e. not 17mm). This may be because the stresses are less for the rear brakes. The calliper unit was held by 12mm bolts as expected.

Can you confirm the 12mm bolt torque and also give me the torque for the 14mm bolt. I guessed about 50 ft/lbs but am worried this might be too much.

Thanks.

 

These the torques you needed?

 

Good write up!

 

I could use the front suspension torque values for the ball joint, tie rod end, lower strut, etc.

 

sorta old. two lower strut mount bolts 65 ft.lb