the car's CLUTCH earlier this morning going to work everything was 100% OK
then when I was going home I CA NOT USE IT ANYMORE !

if the car's engine is turned ON the clutch WILL NOT ENGAGE???
i have to turn off the engine put it into 1st or 2nd gear, turn the car's engine ON, put it into either 1st or 2nd gear then drive in 1st or 2nd gear for it to work. if the engine is turned off i can change gears but there is some small resistance going t0 5th gear.

if the car is turned ON , and I put it on REVERSE it will make a noise, so I can not use reverse.

Can anybody help regarding this sudden problem.
I always take care of my car, this is a daily driver. all oils are check
religiously. Car is stock NO modification done.

this is a manual transmission car.

I bought the car brand-new

it says on the warranty 3 years or 38,000 miles. (will honda still honor it )?

There is also a clause that says " some repairs may be covered beyond the LIMITED warranty" on a case to case basis...will they honor this sudden problem, I had NO problem with this car, this was very
unexpected!!!


has anybody had this problem?

thanks

 

Is this your first manual car?

And, from what I understand, the clutch is a wear and tear item, and it wouldn't be replaced. Unless you have a nice dealership.

 

bad clutch slave cylinder? No such problem with my Fit, but the slave cylinder failed on our (departed) Mazda5. It was fixed under warranty.

 

do you think its a bad clutch slave cylinder? what could have cause it?
this is very surprising, my car runs 100% strong no problem, until yesterday
how much do you think it would cost to have it fix in an independent mechanic?

 

Take it to honda. Its a huge safety hazard to have to turn the motor off for shifting

 

The clutch disk is a wear item, and probably would not be covered under warranty at this stage. (Typically it should last longer, but a lot depends upon the driver and the style of driving. Riding the clutch will make it wear quickly.)

I agree, though, that this sounds more like a problem with the clutch hydraulics, and I'd think might be covered under the (longer) powertrain warranty. I'd at least ask the dealer. The clutch hydraulics should definitely not break down or wear out this early. A clutch that's wearing generally does so a little bit more gradually, with it slipping progressively more under load and so forth.

How much it would cost to repair really depends on what the problem is. If it's the master cylinder or the line, it should not be too unreasonable. If it's the slave cylinder, I think you need to take a lot of stuff apart (separate the engine and the transmission, which probably means removing them from the car) to get at it, and so the labor could be a bit steep.

Regardless, I'm not sure you have much of a choice in the matter; it's something that obviously needs to be repaired somehow or another.

 

I drove standard transmission vehicles for many years. My experience with the clutch is that they slowly deteriorate over time. You can feel it wearing down slowly where it doesn't start to catch until your foot is almost off the pedal. It's easy to tell when your clutch is wearing down.

What you describe is something that came on all of a sudden. Doesn't sound like a normal clutch problem. South like some other problem.

If it does turn out to be the clutch itself, that is a wear and tare item and not covered under warranty.

Good luck

 

uh, clutch slave, just look left of battery and down in front of transmission. Hardline goes right to it. Bet you could change a clutch slave in 2 minutes, not including time to bleeed lines

I think if hydraulics were bad, he would not be able to shift PERIOD. They would not operate the clutch at all.


Im thinking the clutch or pressure plate is at fault here. Perhaps a defective piece, it happens

 

Check to make sure it has fluid and air is bleed out of the slave cylinder. This happened on my friends civic and that all we had to do to fix it.

 

So the slave cylinder is external to the transmission housing on the Fit? I learned something today; on many vehicles, it's inside the bell housing or transmission housing somewhere. Thanks for setting me straight.

The OP isn't entirely clear, but I read it as saying he can only shift when the engine isn't running, which of course doesn't require using the clutch because nothing is rotating.

 

when i got out of work last night i turned on the engine i was still able to shift to 1st gear, then only after a couple of yards i shifted to 2nd then and then that was where it all happpend, i can not shift to 3rd gear.
lucky i was near a gas station.

if the engine is off, i can shift to 1,2,3,4 easily on the 5th a very small resistance also with reverse.

if engine is on there is no way to shift gears, and if you shift reverse
you will hear a loud transmission noise.

the way i went home last night is, i turned off engine, put it on 2nd turned it on, and drove all the way home on 2nd gear.


i am very good driving a manual transmission car (30+ plus yrs.)
(all oils/fluid check regularly)

 

Rev match to shift while the car is moving. Also check my last post it might be a simple and cheap solution to your problem there is a little nipple on that slave cylinder so you can bleed the air out.

 

hey hehn

where can i find this: nipple on that slave cylinder so you can bleed the air out

(there is No fluid leaks when i check the car today. brake and clutch fluid properly filled-up too.)

thanks

 

Should be in the front it'll have a little black rubber cap on it, kinda like what you would see on a brake caliper. It should be pretty close to the radiator fan.

 

First check your clutch fluid in the master cylinder. If it is full, then open the slave cylinder bleeder screw, and see if any air bubbles come out in the fluid.
With the bleeder open, have someone slowly push the clutch pedal down. Tell them, not to let up on the pedal at all, until you tell them, after you close the bleeder screw. Otherwise, when they let off the pedal with the bleeder open, it will pull in air.

If your master cylinder is empty, fill it, and then you have to bleed the master cyl, before you bleed the slave cylinder.

With the master cyl bleeder open, have someone slowly push the pedal down and hold it down, while you close the bleeder. Repeat a few times, until no air bubbles come out. Refilling the master cyl as needed.

After bleeding the master, you always need to bleed the slave cyl.

If after bleeding and still no disengage, open the slave bleeder, and have someone push the clutch pedal down. If no fluid comes out, the master cyl. is ng. If fluid comes out, I would bleed again and try it. If no luck then, the slave cyl. is most likely ng.
Good luck with it. Let us know.

 

You said the clutch master cylinder reservoir fluid level is good? Look at the slave cylinder on the bell housing, locate the slave cylinder push rod. The push rod is connected to the clutch release lever which goes inside the bell housing. Have someone operate the clutch pedal. The push rod should move about 1/4" or more if the hydraulics are operating correctly. If it doesn't move or barely moves your hydraulics are probably bad assuming the push rod is properly connected to the clutch lever.

If you haven't needed to add fluid to the clutch reservoir there shouldn't be any air in the system, no need to bleed the system. If bleeding is needed it's bled from the nipple
on the slave cylinder. The shop manual doesn't show a bleeder for the clutch master cylinder.

Have you noticed any change in the clutch pedal feel, no change in pedal effort and no change in the pedal height when it engages or releases the clutch lever?
The clutch pedal height can be adjusted if needed.

Clifton

 

after i left the car yesterday morning at the dealership i finally got it back today with clutch issue repaired (knock on wood)

dealership said the problem was:

Pressure Plate Failure
* clutch disc and pressure plate = replaced
- disk , friction = replaced
- disk , pressure = replaced
- bearing = replaced
- fluid M/T = replaced

Pressure Plate-Uneven not enough angle to push clutch disc, clutch disc burnt wont shift

replace clutch pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing and pilot bearing.
perform alignment. test driven manual shifts thru all gear smoothly at this time.

note: flywheel is clean no gouge

that is what it said in the paper report.

at least i did not pay anything since there are two warranty for the car
1) limited time warranty = 38,000 miles / 3yrs
2) power-train warranty 5 yrs. 60k miles

this was covered by powertrain, i thougth at first my limited warranty was
over but the SA slip his tongue and said the car was coverd by powertrain
he initially wanted $ 110 for check-up fee, but said if the problem was
caused under the powertrain warranty i will not pay anything in which case
the problem was under trans-axle/transmission

almost all my cars are manual and this is the first time this happened to me. Never had problem with manual transmission cars.

My 2011 Fit Sport came with cruise control, on long trips i used it a lot
could that cause the problem?

this car is religiously maintained oil/fluids etc.. i only buy the highest grade oil/fluid for my car.



Thanks for all who help, gave suggestions





.

 

thanks for the follow-up. Betting it's a freak occurence and glad it was covered under warranty. Looks like 13fit nailed it.

 

I'm also glad it's settled, and that your dealer covered it under the powertrain warranty (as they properly should have).

Cruise control use has nothing whatsoever to do with your problem. From the clutch's point of view, there's no difference at all between the cruise control maintaining speed and your foot on the accelerator maintaining speed. I've driven many miles in cars with manual transmissions using cruise control, and never seen premature clutch wear.

 

I'm curious... phenoyz, do you take your Fit to the race track often?