2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

Clutch Problem

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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 01:38 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DrewE
I'm also glad it's settled, and that your dealer covered it under the powertrain warranty (as they properly should have).

Cruise control use has nothing whatsoever to do with your problem. From the clutch's point of view, there's no difference at all between the cruise control maintaining speed and your foot on the accelerator maintaining speed. I've driven many miles in cars with manual transmissions using cruise control, and never seen premature clutch wear.
I am really thinking what could have been the cause...
I've also driven a lot of manual cars before and this is the first time this happened to me....some of them old second hand cars but did not have any problem with the manual transmission...
And I bought my Fit brand-new...


Originally Posted by Goobers
I'm curious... phenoyz, do you take your Fit to the race track often?
I NEVER track or race my Fit!!! old folks Honk at me when i drive my car because i drive slower than them... although i go to race tracks and watch them blow their cars out



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Last edited by phenoyz; Aug 11, 2013 at 03:29 PM.
Old Aug 9, 2013 | 05:18 PM
  #22  
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Then why do you want to install a kill switch?

Your topic -> https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...ml#post1196265
 
Old Aug 9, 2013 | 11:24 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Goobers
Then why do you want to install a kill switch?

Your topic -> https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...ml#post1196265

what has this question got to do with my clutch? so what if if i was asking how to instal a kill switch
 
Old Aug 9, 2013 | 11:59 PM
  #24  
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Simple, there aren't many reasons to install a kill switch. The most likely that I can figure out is it's required regulation for races. And an aggressive (perhaps not not an expert) racer can burn through a clutch.
 
Old Aug 10, 2013 | 11:03 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Goobers
Simple, there aren't many reasons to install a kill switch. The most likely that I can figure out is it's required regulation for races. And an aggressive (perhaps not not an expert) racer can burn through a clutch.
umm... because i read this article from yahoo: Most Stolen Car in America

http://autos.yahoo.com/news/the-10-most-stolen-cars-in-america.htm
 
Old Aug 10, 2013 | 01:10 PM
  #26  
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How many thieves can steal a car with a stick these days?
 
Old Aug 10, 2013 | 05:46 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by phenoyz
umm... because i read this article from yahoo: Most Stolen Car in America

http://autos.yahoo.com/news/the-10-most-stolen-cars-in-america.htm
My issue with kill switches vs theft is... If u have access to it, so would a thief. And chances are good, they can probably wire bypass it more easily than the immobilizer. At least with an immobilizer tied to the ECU, it would need a signal code to be communicated. Something not so easy with wire bypass.

Of course, if you put a master kill switch that kills ALL electricity, it would disable the alarm also.

At best, you can delay the most inexperienced thieves (maybe stop them if they're really stupid). But any with some experience would defeat the kill switch easily.

In any case, I'm gonna back myself out of this topic before I invest too much.
 
Old Aug 29, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #28  
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if anybody wants to mess with your transmission, how can they do it?

 
Old Jun 28, 2014 | 03:38 PM
  #29  
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So, uh, getting away from track racing and kills switches.....

I haven't found a factory service interval for changing the clutch fluid in my fit, though after 80k that stuff was nasty and didn't even resemble brake fluid any more. Maybe black oil mixed with prune juice or some such nastiness. Did I miss something in the maintenance schedule, or is it just good practice to change it out with the brake fluid every 3 years?
 
Old Jun 28, 2014 | 07:49 PM
  #30  
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Change it for sure every 2-3 years, closer to 2 years if you do a lot of city driving (more shift changes)


The easiest way to change the fluid without breaking anything loose is to grab a spare turkey baster, suck the reservoir dry-ish, and refill with fresh fluid. Pump teh clutch pedal 30-40 times slowly, to mix the fluid up. repeat this process 2-3 times, and you should be able to get it nearly 60-70% new.


The only way to get 100% (which isnt necessarily needed) is of course to loosen teh clutch slave bleeder, and gravity bleed for a few hours. Then do a proper bleed and be done.
 
Old Jun 30, 2014 | 07:43 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 13fit
Change it for sure every 2-3 years, closer to 2 years if you do a lot of city driving (more shift changes)


The easiest way to change the fluid without breaking anything loose is to grab a spare turkey baster, suck the reservoir dry-ish, and refill with fresh fluid. Pump teh clutch pedal 30-40 times slowly, to mix the fluid up. repeat this process 2-3 times, and you should be able to get it nearly 60-70% new.


The only way to get 100% (which isnt necessarily needed) is of course to loosen teh clutch slave bleeder, and gravity bleed for a few hours. Then do a proper bleed and be done.
Yup, every 2 or 3 years (brake fluid change schedule) is what I'm thinking as well. I used a vacuum bleeder to change it out. Easy and no mess. That mityvac is worth it's weight in gold. I'm kicking myself for bleeding brakes for 20 years manually.
 
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