Should I undercoating my fit if I drive in Vancouver only?

Is undercoating a rip-off?

The car salesman say no and the the others guy say yes...

 

Undercoating was much more important back in the old days when the vehicles werent made with the same materials and without the high tech processes they use today. Today most manufacturers galvanized some of the undercarriage or treat the frame before its painted.

Undercoating helps by putting an additional barrier between the vehicle and the road salts as long as its applied correctly.

There are also different kinds of undercoating. One is a black, sticky, tar like spray on that is thick and covers everything. The other common one is more of a light honey, clearer looking, oily spray on which works too but doesn't last as long as the black sticky one. Which one were you thinking of getting?

If I were undercoating my own vehicle I would pressure wash the bottom of the car before applying undercoating so nothing would get trapped between the undercoating and the vehicle. It should be completely dry before applying it so you don't cause a problem by trapping water in there.

 

My experience with a 2002 Subaru WRX, also a Japanese model: I used to live in northern Pennsylvania where, depending on the actual weather, they could start dropping salt in early October and finish up in late May. I drove to work daily and often ran to the ski slopes in Ellicottville NY, so my car was always covered with salt. I parked in an unheated garage, which was nice as the heat of the engine was enough to melt the slop off the car when I parked at night. Some winters I tried to wash it regularly, others I didn't. (I could clean it up in the garage, but the water would freeze when I went outside or the car would be covered in new salt spray in 5 miles anyway.) Some winters were milder, so I could escape the salt for longer periods of time. The car held up well until a few peaks of rust appeared on the rear fenders breaking through at the top of the wheel wells about 2010. Also, the steering reenforcing brace - not the frame, but a bolt on U shaped part under the engine rusted but I did a weld repair for annual state inspection. The exhaust went late 2011 (did a cat back replacement). The rear brake lines rusted through and popped in spring 2012. The final straw was the gas tank started leaking and got worse quickly (with as little as 1/8 of a tank - would drip) in the fall of 2012 when I parked it until repairs with 142,000 miles. Then, on to the Honda Fit!
My suggestion: I heard of a local guy that would put the car on a rack (outside) in August, power wash them, and then spray them with linseed oil and try to get into the nooks and crannies. He charged $100 a car and would line up maybe 20 of them and do them in groups. You had to leave the car on a Thursday, he would power wash them and let them dry so he could spray them Saturday (and let them drip on Sunday, lol!) 10 years = $1000 for the annual cleaning and some protection against the salt. As long as he could spray onto the top of the gas tank, etc, it would be worth it. I've looked at that Subaru with the idea of power washing it like that, but without a lift (and a summer day) there is no way to move the wand enough to get into the crannies. Look for a guy like that.
If you have access to a lift, then go to it with a power washer. I even looked at getting my own spray gun for applying my own linseed oil or what ever I came up with, but like I said, never got past doing a real power wash. Here's a company that sells the spray guns, you can get one with a flexible end for under $70 plus various liquids are available. They also are on Ebay if that helps you in Canada : TP Tools Search Results - TP Tools & Equipment
Also of note, the gave up on fancy brakes, etc, and just stuck to the standard stuff from the auto parts store and replaced brake parts about every three years. Watch the calipers, then tend to start rusting up and not squeezing correctly so clean a put the proper hi temp grease on the pins every summer. Some cars need to be checked under the doors, too, another rust prone area.
Overall, the car did well, it is just a tough environment.
My ultimate solution was to move to Florida, it is AMAZING to crawl under a 10 year old car down here, it looks like a dusty new one!!! The price I paid in cars for a life in the salt belt - unreal.

 

Nope, you don't need it.

 

As screwed up as it is down here in Texas, I'm glad I don't have to worry about my car being eaten up by salt.. The long hot summer days are hard on paint though.

 

Your money is better spent washing the salt of the car. OE metal treatment is very good and there is no reason to do anything else.

 

depends how long you intend to keep the car and if you want to do the work yourself or not. also, remember that rust proofing needs to be touched up annually for full effect.

the car has factory corrosion protection and my 09 which was barely washed (snow belt state) is rusted here and there underneath, but it's still functional no problem.

my '12 i did not do any undercoating either, but i do wash the undercarriage in the spring (car on ramps, put a sprinkler under the car and let it run 15-20min) and then touchup any surface rust using rustolium RUST REFORMER.

that's all it takes.

 

Definitely worth it here in Quebec. I'd recommend trying to find a place that uses grease rather than oil. Grease sticks and even if it gets splashed, protects metal. Oil drips all over the place and smells.

Most people swear by mom and pop style places. If you have an air compressor you can by a oil pistol and buy your own oil and do it yourself. Just don't grease the exhaust or inside the wheel bearings. Even if you plan on selling the car, it will have more value if you can show receipts of rustproofing.

Once rust attacks the under carriage, it's game over and it's a 500$ part here 400$part there and it only keeps getting worse! A good rustproofing job should run you at least 100 to 150 but subsequent years you should be able to get by with minor touch ups.

I use Barry's rustproofing in Montreal and he's great. His treatment lasts 3 years with no touch ups and cost me 220$. He's certified with the APA. Maybe check with the APA to see if they can recommend a garage in Vancouver (that uses grease, not oil)

 

Undercoating is only as good as the guy applying it.