"Its Back!" Upon start up to come home, the VSA "problem" light and the CEL came on in unison. After driving a little, I stopped, put it in Park (AT), and turned the engine off. Upon restart the VSA light was now off but the CEL remained on and will probably do so until sufficient trouble-free miles accumulate to clear it, as happened before.


Even though the previous "reading of the codes" noted a misfire in #2 & #3 cylinders, I can't believe that it is really true. Because of the combination of the VSA and CEL lights every time, I have to believe that the VSA must be triggering the CEL and for some obscure reason it comes across / registers as a misfire. The combination is just too coincidental to not be linked. And I'm getting 30 MPG with 205/50-16 on 16x7 wheels, which to me would be normal for spinning bigger "shoes" than the OEM 185/55-16 on OEM wheels.


I wonder if a low battery might be a potential root cause since it is 3 winters old and kind of weak. The car is fine going to work in the morning but upon start up after sitting all day (begs the question "why doesn't it happen after sitting all night?"), the trouble lights come on. The other variable here is that I filled up with gas before parking it a work (1/4 mile away). A loose gas cap should only cause the CEL to come on. Maybe I'll change the battery out now as a precaution (planned to do that prior to next winter anyway). I'll see if that clears things up and if not, I'll still have my good battery going into next winter.


I'm also wondering if I shouldn't invest in a factory service manual and if it would have sufficient details on VSA system to diagnose the problem. I could always just take it to the dealer but then I pay 1x - 3x the price of the factory service manual price and learn nothing. Might be better to teach a man how to fish (work on my own FIT over and over again) than to provide one meal (go to the dealer to fix this problem) and remain a sitting duck for the next problem.

 

(*scratch that*)

The service manual is useful if you want to do a lot of stuff to the Fit.

 

Fix your misfire issue and that will solve your VSA light being on. Dont ask me why, but misfire codes can and do illuminate the VSA light along with the CEL. and YES you do need HDS to access VSA codes.
Another thing, Seems to me like all these new fits have out of spec valve lashes from the factory. These lashs arnt done by hand and by machine, and my guess is why there is this problem. I checked my valve lash on my 2013 fit when it was at 500 miles and they were all out of wack!

 

That brings up a good question. I maintain several motorcycles that either use shims or tappet screw adjustments in the valve train. Where would I find the tool needed to do the adjustment? I've watched some YT videos and it doesn't look anymore difficult than my bikes. I do have some valve train noise (approaching 40K miles on a 2011 Sport AT) that developed after some hard acceleration. Thought that the rev limiter would stop me from hurting myself but t appears not.


Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree with my VSA & CEL issue since the valve train noise developed months before I changed out the wheels. The lights and codes began to occur within a week after changing the wheels. Re-used the TPMS units along with Honda rebuild kits (new grommets, valves, cap, threaded sleeves, added a spec new washer). I've never gotten the big "I" TPMS alarm, so I have to believe that the units are transmitting. Not sure if a break in that electronic signal between the TPMS unit and the receiver would cause this VSA light or if there are a separate set of wheel speed sensors (front wheels only or on all fours) that might be involved.

 

There are two specific lights for TPMS.

( ! ) for low pressure
TPMS (the actual letters) for an error with the modules themselves, like no signal, poor signal, etc.

The fact it occured after swapping wheels doesn't guarantee that its the problem. It could just be a coincidence. It could be completely unrelated, it could be the entire reason for the issue, or something in between.

Since you've had the valve train noise for months, you probably should get them adjusted anyway.

 

Its a coincidence that the VSA and CEL light came on a week after changing your wheels.
I dont think people understand clearly that the VSA has nothing to do with TPMS.....
Fix your misfire issues (adjust valves, replace coils if needed),
than erase dtcs.
The tool to adjust honda valves are here at this link, other wise you can use a 10mm wrench and a flat head screw driver.

 

so it looks like the Fit is acting up again. After a spark plug change in the number 2 cylinder about 5000 miles ago the Fit has thrown the same P0302 Cyl. 2 misfire code again. I called my Honda dealer again to inform them of the issue and that i felt it should be covered since it is the same issue i had BEFORE 36K. They said they MIGHT cover it. Anyone have any advice on what they should do next at the dealer? If they already did a plug and it failed another plug 5K miles later than i'm thinking the next thing will be the coil pack, another plug, and maybe a valve adjustment. The car does tick quite a bit while at idle so i'm hoping that a valve adjustment will resolve the issue of the number 2 cylinder fouling plugs. Do i have a lemon or is this somewhat normal?!

 

You shouldn't be having this problem at 40K, or at 100K so no, it's not typical.

A defective coil pack seems most likely. Shouldn't need valve adjustment. It's not called for under normal maintenance until the plugs are changed sometime after 100K miles. The valves are normally a bit noisy when cold. They are pretty quiet on mine at operating temperature. I'm at 67K. The plug didn't just go bad on its own; there has to be something else causing it.

Yes, they should goodwill the fix. If the salesperson is reluctant ask to speak to the service manager. If that person is reluctant contact Honda Customer Care (number is in your owner's manual).

 

thanks for the reply Steve. I've read that if you replace one coil pack you are supposed to replace them all because a coil pack adjacent to the problem cylinder could also be the culprit. Any thoughts on that? I do have quite loud ticking at idle, even after warm, so i thought that might be valve tick although i'm not experienced enough, i don't think, to determine that. I heard that if you drive the car hard, which i have before, that could cause the valves to go out of spec much sooner than the recommended interval. So you're saying coil pack replacement and thats it? Also, what if i have an issue again after this repair with the same cylinder, should i start looking at lemon law documentation? Thanks again!

 

lemon laws typically only cover cars in their first year and lower mileage. They also require you go to great lengths to allow the manufacturer to fix the problem. Honda Customer Care is pretty good even if some local dealers are lacking.

I don't think you need to replace multiple coil packs if only one is bad. It could be a bad valve adjustment. I'd leave it to them to diagnose.

 

Actually it IS common. And there is no NORMAL maintenance for valve adjusts. Steve i thought you read the owners manual? IT clearly states to "adjust valves when noisy". Valve lash can differ accordingly to ownership due to how that owner maintains vehicle like oil changes. Im finding a ton of "new" fits with valves out of spec straight from factory.

Lol no body listens. It doesnt matter the mileage. Valve adjust may be needed anytime. The technicians should have performed a valve adjust the first time around. If you read my post, like i said, i checked my valves when i bought my fit with 500miles and the valve lash was way off on all cylinders. Get the valve adjust done, and ALL the coil packs should be replaced with the updated packs all at once.

 

If noise were the only criteria, we'd be adjusting the valves daily. Normal maintenance calls for inspection at MM 4 along with plug replacement. Anecdotes have this appearing above 100,000 miles. Valve adjustment is probably $300+ at Honda (I haven't priced it) so it's not something to be done on a whim. If it needed doing anytime/frequently, I'd be driving something else with hydraulic lifters.

If they are excessively noisy then adjustment may be needed (as both you and the manual state). As Figital noted, his seem excessively noisy even at operating temperature. This could be the cause of his problem, but at 40K I think it's more likely a coil pack.

Replace all coil packs immediately? sigh...

 

"If noise were the only criteria, we'd be adjusting the valves daily"

LMAO who the fuq are you?!? That makes no sense what so ever. Noise is usually a MAIN criteria for out of spec valves,... altho in many cases valves are out of spec and there is no noise differnce (tight valve lash). And yes there is a service interval on MM that is RECOMMENDED to perform the valve adjust and spark plugs but what people like you dont understand is that its merely just a recommendation not that it is due right at the blink of subcode 4. The valves could need adjustment any time before if there are issues of it being out of spec (drivability issues, dtcs), which in this case they most likly are.
And as for what you THINK, is far from what a professional mechanic KNOWS. Just because this persons car or any car, is at 40k doesnt rule out valves being out of spec. like i said I, we , here at HONDA, have seen multiple newer Fits already with valve spec issues with mileage shy of 20k. And like i already posted, my own fit with 500 miles was out of spec from the factory.
"Replace all coil packs immediatly"????? sigh......who said that? , "Replace coil packs ALL at once" I said that.
Im sorry STEVE, i dont know who u are or what you think you know, but just because you have 3k posts in a forum does not make up for your lack of knowlege...maybe just the smoke your blowing...

 

Aren't you the guy advocating 3k oil changes or dire timing chain and valve damage will result? At the same time stating that Honda engineers haven't a clue with their maintenance schedule?

On top of this you're a Honda tech?

You're going to talk yourself out of a job.

 

dropping her off in the morning. i will advise them that they should do a valve adjustment, replace the offending spark plug, and coil pack to ensure i don't return again for the same issue. We'll see how it goes.

 

They probably won't pay for a valve adjustment, but it's worth asking.

 

ha ha. Nice try but no. The argument in a differnt thread was that Honda recommends 3750 miles per oil change for severe driving, which some dealerships do recommmend in heavily populated cities, or cities with extreme highs or lows in weather changes. Reason is because oil doesnt only break down from driving but from weather and environment. Something you probably wont understand because all you do is repeat what you read and dont understand or seen first hand of how oil breaks down or prematurly wears engines. As for timing chain and valve lash, ill repeat myself agian, no immediate damage will occur but over time IMPROPER preventative maintenence will cause premature wear and tear (stretched timing chain, valve lash premature wear and so on). Im not, or never said following the MM will cause engine damage, but in the long run a consistant oil changed engine is gonna out last an engine that had its oil changed per calculated computer MM. You probably wouldnt believe me if i told you that the first honda to go 1 million miles didnt use a MM either.
And yes im a Honda tech. What are you? a Cook? you wanna argue how to cook top ramin the right way?

 

WOW this thread is full of WIN!!!!!

 

I cant speak for some clowns acting as Honda techs in this world but hopefully they know how to check if the valves needed adjusted from the map sensor voltage. otherwise you will be out some money with no fix. But im pretty confidant you have valve lash issues. All The coils may need to be addressed at some time also.

 

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