Take to a local mechanic. It sounds like your putting a lot of strain into the one OEM line. I understand the reasons people choose the diy method but I feel if I make a small mistake on the brake job (loose nut/air in lines/etc) it would cause major damage unexpectedly.

 

Being a technician myself, I don't really recommend people doing their own brakes when it comes to dealing with the lines and fluid. Reason is cuz if you arnt sure what your doing, it could be your life at stake. Take it to a proper shop if your not sure what your doing. And for everyones curiosity, the bleed sequence straight out of Honda ISIS (integrated service information system), is LF , RF, RR, LF. Don't ask why, just the way it is.

 

I agree with all of you in term of safety comes first. I needed not to rush into using the wrong tools in such a critical area of car safety.
No signs of leak at all.
I put the summer tires/wheel setup and I tried the car this afternoon. It is stops so promptly that I need to be careful not to engage the ABS. I need to relearn how to deal with brake pedal, much more stoping power.

Anyway, will take it to the dealer on Monday to check things out

 

There's no holes in the pad to reinstall the spring clip/anti-rattle clip. That is all, no biggy.

And I wouldn't get that rear disc conversion either. It won't work. The ge8 has their spindle wielded to the rear axle. You'd need a rear axle from an existing fit model with rear disc.

I track my fit all the time with just SS lines, Motul fluid, hawk HP+ pads, and ebay slotted rotors. I've never even come close to brake fade, with 7 or 8 half hour sessions throughout the day, so I'll be surprised if you do. If you do you probably have air in the line.

I wouldn't be so worried about rear disc. The fronts do the majority of the work anyways. If you have disc, cool, if not you'll still be fine. I just adjust my drums properly before track time. Good luck out there!

 

I will be at Waterford hills raceway tomorrow, will take it easy and report back.

 

You should go to the ITR expo at road America in June. So I won't be the only fit there

 

I just got home after a great day at Waterford Hills Raceway.
I had a blast! The fit is so nimble I was blown away of how good it drives on a small technical track like this one!!!
It is lightweight and you feel it, it is not fast so not so much drama or fear and it is FWD so just mash the throttle at corner exit

My setup is
1) Enkei RPF1 15X7 with Direzza ZII ( they made the most difference)
2) Swift springs
3) SPC camber bolts, my camber is -1.8 up front
4) Goodridge SS brake lines , only 3 lines installed
5) Hawk HP plus pads ( instantaneous stopping power)
6) Rear seat removed ( trust me, it makes a difference)

I learned in a hard way that you do not need great stopping power to slow down the fit may be just fluids to prevent boiling.

 

Glad you had a great time. Next time before you head out try adding a progress rear swaybar (trust me, it makes a big difference.) lol

BUUUUUT I completely disagree with your last statement. I would at lease bare minimum strongly recommend to anyone going on track to switch fluids as you stated and the brake pads. I would never suggest running on the OE pads. On longer courses where you can get higher speeds, you would have a higher chances of overheating the brakes.

It's not so much about stopping power, the fits capable of that just fine, it's about lowering the chances of overheating the OE pads so you can stop safely.

 

DOT3 synth or DOT4 should be ran if driving hard.

Valvoline fluid has a higher boil temp than Prestone. If I remember right, it was 411 versus 384* F

 

Yes, I think you are right. Because my conclusion of fit "does not" need upgraded pads came from my car that already has upgraded pads and fluids!??? So I think I liked the stopping power and the staying cool traits of the upgrades and I preached of leaving the stock pads lol...good catch Cocowheat

I do have progress rear sway bar lol, forgot to mention it

 

I ran ATE DOT 4

 

I found when bleeding the front calipers, tapping on the caliper will release trapped air bubbles that WONT come out by just normal bleeding. Until I did this, the pedal was not quite hard. The 2 person method is the best way.

 

Thanks for the input.
Do you guys know how to unscrew a fully stripped bolt? Vise grip? Any tricks?

 

tap/die kit

 

Use an easy-out. It basically grips the head harder the more it fights the urge to loosen.

It will look like a fat torx bit that has curved "jaws" on the edges.

Should be under $10 at a partsstore

 

I was referring to brake hard line fittings got stripped using the tool, vise grip good?

 

Just here to correct this, the conversion kit works fine. There is someone on here running it already (with pics). The rotor fits on the hub, you don't need to take the hub, spindle or anything off.

I don't think it's needed on a L15 Fit, but the option is there. You're better off doing ITR front brake upgrade and leaving the rear alone. You could get upgraded shoes if it bothers you that much, Porterfield has some.

Honestly, an L15 Fit isn't a brake heavy car, or it shouldn't be anyway if your suspension and tires are worth anything. Stock pads are fine, but I would run DOT4 as a precaution.


Glad you had fun out there OP, and as far as loosening the stripped brake fitting, just do whatever you have to do to get it off. Grips, pliers, whatever, you're not keeping it anyway so have at it lol

 

The problem is those hard line fittings are not removal in the sense of being replaced easily, you have to cut the hard line, insert a new fitting then flare its end out...
Yes I am happy with DOT 4 and Hawk HP Plus, even today where it snowed in Detroit, they did very well, not to say I am advocating using aggressive pads in cold weather, but we have a weird day of sudden temp drop so I thought I will try them out

 

Hawk HPS are fine just about anywhere. HP+ take a little more to heat but still not that big of a deal.

I feel your pain about the hard line but it's probably best to just cut, new fitting and flare it than try to monkey around with a stripped fitting for the rest of your days lol

 

Seems like this thread is better for asking my question

Is there someone that can tell me how many brake lines are in the upgrade kits for the GE? I was looking for specifics on the Techna-fit or equivalents but all them are listed as "4 lines kit", however I'm pretty sure my GE has 6 hoses 'cause I've got rear disks.

Where am I wrong?