Why'd you delete your other post?


Here's the answer I just posted over in that thread. see below




You're not wrong, but it's because you have rear disc brakes (6 total lines).
The kit mentioned in this thread is for the USDM GE8's which have rear drum brakes (4 total lines).


Mugen, along with other "JDM" brands do sell the 6 piece kit that will work for your car. The correct Mugen part # for your rear discs should be 46400-XLF-K1S0
Check this thread for details --> https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ersion-13.html

 

Wow .. that's a crazy expansive part... $350 about €250 .. I bought the Ggoodridge kit for my Fiat for €90 and it's a 6 line either...

BTW, do you also know the P/N for the GD brake lines?

 

You do know Mugen is $$$... right?
Last time I checked though, on rakuten for me (shipped to NY, USA) the Mugen lines (6pcs kit) were about $250USD or so... that's shipped to me.
Check the thread that's on here for how to use rakuten... you'll probably save some $$.



The GE lines for the USDM Fit are about the same price as what your Fiat's were.


GD part #'s... I have no idea, but according to rhdjapan site they appear to be the same part #'s.
MUGEN Micro Mesh Brake Line NSX Fit - RHDJapan
Could be, but I'd double check that if you have a GD.

 

Yes I do That's why I bought anything for my Fit in the US, in Italy it would be far more expansive.

By the way, I've got a friend with a GD and me with the GE. So basically two kits. Sounds strange it could be the same kit for both. I'll check too, I'm still not very familiar with honda parts..

 

Uhm.. again it's a 4 line kit however.. sound strange on a NSX

 

Scroll down you'll see the correct part #'s.. the pics are wrong.


Part Num: 46400-XLF-K1S0 (GE8)



the 4 line kit is
Part Num: 46400-XLF-K0S0 (GE8)

 

why would you have 2 extra hoses?

the other 2 are the ebrake cables, not brake lines.

EDIT i looked into it more, check this thread out
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ml#post1233812

B<W Alpina is using a 6 piece kit, but he has the RS rear disk axle he had shipped to him.

Apologies for the mistake

 

Forgot to add this... the GD3 lines are different and so are the NSX.
Part Num: 46400-XG2-K0S0 (NA1, NA2)
Part Num: 46400-XLF-K1S0 (GE8) W/rear discs
Part Num: 46400-XLF-K0S0 (GE8) with rear drum brakes.
Part Num: 46400-XK7D-K0S0 (GD3, GD1)

So according to rhdjapan those are the part #'s.
The one's for the GE8 are definitely correct cause Alpina researched them in his thread.

 

“Tongue-and-groove” plier - get one with a long handle, this gives you more leverage. Adjust the size/opening of the head as appropriate to the size of the nut and chock it dead center of the plier. You need to FIRMLY squeeze and handle for a nice and tight grip on the nut but be aware you are not crushing the nut/line (note that it may leave teeth marks on the nut, no big deal considering the alternaive it to repalce the line). These nus are made with very low grade steel and are (too) tight out of assembly line + age (debri+water build up) made it super tight. Once you start to round the head of the nut, you loose leverage. You can use the pliers to take it on/off in the future (hopefully you don't need too). Good luck.

+1 on tapping the caliper body. Air bubbles get trapped in nooks inside the caliper. After the initial bleeding, I would suggest bring the brake fluid up to temp and bleed again while warm/hot. Speed bleeders are a great help for the solo DIYer. Napa branded ones are the cheapest that I’ve come across. And for MT owners, these new wonderfully “efficient” (/s) cars use a share fluid reservoir for brake and clutch fluid (both systems brake down the same fluid) so I would also advise to bleed the clutch slave at the same time when bleeding brakes and change the fluid a little more often then not.

 

how much better is the pedal feel?

 

They are not combined. You might be thinking of a Ford Probe or similar, as they shared the same large tank