Hello, first time posting here. Longish post, with some questions.

I just got this Fit in November '14 when my previous car, a Mazda Protege5, blew a head gasket. Had 74,000+ on the odometer (due to it being below 75k, the dealership gave me a lifetime warranty on the engine, dunno if they'd actually honor it if it came to that though), one owner, likely a base model (has no cruise control and yet has the automatic; very strange, as I thought base only came with manual), ran very well then and for the most part does well now. Only real trouble I've had is the battery died during unusually cold weather here in January, a simple swap and it's been fine.

But as I've racked up the miles on it, it doesn't feel as strong as it did before. I'm looking to have it checked out bumper to bumper just to see if there's anything out of whack. I've already done my own drain and fill on the ATF this past June, and no shavings/filings or debris on the drain plug for the transmission or in the old fluid, so I'm fairly confident the AT and torque converter are fine, even if there is a mild-to-medium clunk when the AT goes from drive to reverse, and vice versa. Have changed the oil once in the spring when it got to 40%; it's at 50% now and I'm looking to change it again at 40% or wait til 30% at the latest. What can you suggest I do or have checked out now that I'm past the 90,000 mile mark?

A few minor issues I have noticed: when it starts first thing in the morning it seems to not start as readily as it did when I first got it. It's not that it grinds or turns over roughly, just that it takes a second or so longer to start compared to starting immediately when "new". I'm just wondering if that might be from natural, gradual wear in the ignition or starter or another component I'm not thinking of?

Seems it struggles more with acceleration than before. Older reviews for this model when it came out in late '08 mention the AT as having so-so acceleration, but even to a mostly laidback, gentle driver (especially when it comes to this little guy), it just seems to not get up to speed as quickly as I'd think it should even seven years after it was new. Is it necessary to do a valve adjustment this early and if so, how much does that cost or is that something I can do myself if I'm very cautious?

Also, sometimes there are clunks when I go over bumps or rough pavement, almost like my sway bar links/ends are going out, but when I reach behind the front wheels and shake them they're still pretty solid. The clunking noise goes on whether I hit something like a speed bump straight on or at an angle, and it's driving me crazy hearing it constantly. Had a similar problem with my Protege 5: replaced the sway bar links and it handled like never before. Not sure if that's the links or if it's the actual strut giving out...anyone have similar experiences?

 

Matt,
What is a Driver's Link?
-bix

 

hit 99k today and have to say other than breaks and fluid, not an issue.

if you think the car is down on power, start with changing the fuel filter and running a tank of some kind of injector cleaner like techron. And common sense stuff like replacing your air filter.

if it isn't starting as quick as when it was new, some is a tad of wear but mainly its no longer a new battery and just doesn't have the same cold cranking amps it had new. I still have the original in my '09. It keeps testing very healthy but yeah same fraction of a second engine turnover.

 

Thanks, really appreciate it. Yeah I figure it to be the sway bar links, should be an easy fix.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, much appreciated.

Before each oil change, I run 1/3-1/2 a can of Seafoam through the crankcase for 10-20 miles, and put the rest in the gas tank, but I haven't touched the fuel filter yet. And yeah, the air filter should be due for a change soon.

Replaced the battery in January and it starts fine, if just a fraction of a second slower. Normal wear, I guess. Am having the LMS recall work done (previous owner did not take it in for it), and they said the rocker arm bolts were broken or bent out of shape....wonder if that might have caused a bit rougher start? I'm quite new to dealing with VTEC engines, so I'm not entirely sure.