Mike, thanks for the offer. I already had my test ride in the '12 yesterday so I'm good there. Looking for the 2.5gen GE8, preferably blue, not a salvage or rebuilder. Sport vs base, MT vs AT, doesn't matter. I'm extending my search to IL just like I did when I bought my '08 in '09 from a dealer in Rockford.

SpaceEgg & Desmond, thanks for the advice.

Edit: My ins agent just called to let me know the estimate of repairing the damage to my vehicle: $10,800. Needless to say, that's about twice the residual value of my car. Totaled.

 

Just one thing to keep in mind: with the AT, there's a definite difference between Base and Sport. The Sport gets the paddle shifters, the Base does not and the tranny programming is more biased towards economy.

Oh yeah, the Sport also gets an additional rear anti-roll bar in the suspension - less understeer compared to the Base.

If you're at all into spirited driving, you'll probably want the Sport, esp. if you go for the auto trans...

 

Post the cars you find in your search. Sport is by far the best model. You know what the differences inside are but the rear sways bar on the sport makes for a better/controlled ride. New the difference in price between say a base/sport is $1500.00. On the used market that gap closes to $500.00 difference. Then the technology pkg difference from a sport and sport w/navigation. New is $3000.00. Used anywhere from $500 to $1000. Keep, in mind also which is something you stated at this point you like both transmissions, technology package only comes in auto. Please send me links of cars that interest you. I can't wait to get your so back in the best fit Honda has made (built in japan) :-) until your next post.

Des,

 

Well said bro. The sport auto is not dirt slow. I'm sorry buy like I said I came from a 08 Acura TL which had 258hp V6. Not only am I going down 141hp but I'm also dropping over 1000lbs in weight. Compared to the TL. After you add mods if you're into, this a great car. My car, I forgot how powerful small 1.5 to 2.4 liter engines Honda had. After my HPS intake, I get torque steer like crazy. I love it.

 

Ah, good points. I guess the Sport model wins in my book. I could live without the paddle shifters but the extra anti-roll bar would be nice.

 

I'd go with the 5MT, just for the extra fuel economy & ability to keep up with traffic a bit better.

 

Appreciate the suggestion, Mike.

At this point I'm actually considering the automatic more than I thought I would, for a few reasons:

1. I've driven stick exclusively for the last 35+ years, my last automatic car being a '71 Buick Skylark GS, and I think it might be time to give my left leg a rest.

2. Automatics have come a long way since that Buick. Was impressed with the auto on the '12 Fit I test drove, didn't seem to hunt and seemed to have enough power, for me at least - I don't drive like a maniac.

3. I drive to Chicago fairly often - have an I-Pass - and driving heavy traffic with a stick is a major bummer. Spent a few years in Cali, same deal.

The rental I have at the moment - a Hyundai Veloster - has an automatic. While it drives and handles fairly well, I would never buy this car for myself. Completely impractical - tiny rear seat and trunk, if you can call it that.

In addition, the rear hatch glass is divided in two parts with a bar separating the two. Rear headrests block the rear view on the sides. High beltline, and I'm a short guy. Verdict: Visibility is awful. The only car I've ever driven where looking back when ready to change lanes is worse than looking through the inside rear view mirror - I can't get my head centered enough to get a clear view without craning it.

 

Use it or lose it!

 

LOL....don't think that'll happen anytime soon!

 

So today, I test drove two different Fits, both from the same dealer though at different locations:

1. '10 Sport, blue, AT, 20K miles, $8995, rebuilt.

2. '12 Base, red, 5MT, 15K miles, $9995, clean title.

Now these seem like good deals. So I took pix of the VIN #'s and ran them through carfax. When I asked the dealer about the Sport damage, he said a fender had been replaced. Red flag. When I asked the dealer where he purchased the Sport, he said he bought it from CapitalOne. Repo, I asked? He said he didn't know. Another red flag.

Carfax on the Sport says it was totaled in TN, went through four states (KY, TN, IN, IL) before coming here, most likely a case of title washing in the transition from IN to IL. Last sold at the Midwest Auto Auction in Nov. '15. Translation: Total slimeball dealer. For this reason, I won't give my business to this dealership at all. Time to keep looking.

 

Ok you are being hard headed. My grandmother used to say a hard head makes for a soft behind. Meaning you are setting yourself up for something you cant get yourself out of. Only buy certified. Honda won't certify shady cars that have been all over the world with 4, 5, 6, owners. I'm gonna look for you. How far are are u willing to go from home? There are many Honda and Acura dealers in your area. My dealer in my town didn't have one that I wanted but was willing to buy a new one from a sister dealer 600mi away but I'm loyal to them. Give me distance and 3 top colors in order from favorite to least. This isn't as hard as you're making it but don't settle on something u didn't want. There are a lot of base owners trying to convert to sport. It's more expensive than the pocket change Honda charge ($1500.00 new) for the sport. Be patient. You'll get what you want. It told you the forum is here to help u...

 

That's a nice thought, Desmond, but I haven't received an offer from the ins co yet. I wasn't expecting to buy another vehicle and I don't have a lot of funds to throw in that direction. If funds were unlimited, different story. I'll keep everyone posted.

 

Here are some I found b4 i got your answer.

Cars for Sale: 2010 Honda Fit Sport in Milwaukee, WI 53214: Hatchback Details - 413727323 - Autotrader

Cars for Sale: 2013 Honda Fit Sport in Brookfield, WI 53045: Hatchback Details - 416632135 - Autotrader

Cars for Sale: 2009 Honda Fit Sport in Waukesha, WI 53189: Hatchback Details - 413111888 - Autotrader

The last one was not certified. My bad but that was just a 25mi search from Milwaukee. The certified ones look good. You live in an area that sees it's share of salt roads. You don't want a car not cleared and yo get home to find electrical issues due to salt. Make sense?

 

I hear you, bro. I get what you're saying.

I've had plenty of time to think about what vehicle would be the replacement for my '08 Sport. Ideally it would be something that would last at least 5 yr., better 6 or 7. For that reason, I've wanted something lower mileage.

But there's no free lunch. I've put up some personal items for sale just to fund the next car purchase. Since I don't have the insurance co. offer yet, I have to keep my sights low. Of course they don't care that my Sport didn't burn a drop of oil at 146K, they're paying me what a comp might be in my area, which is likely less than $5K total.

So I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. Can't afford a low-mileage GE8 at this point unless I go rebuilt, and would really prefer not to go there. Certified would be great but I just don't have the funds to get a low-mileage one. And while another GD3 would be OK, low-mileage ones are next to impossible to find. I've looked.

The fact that this happens in the middle of winter sucks. I guess one option is just to defer any purchase and borrow my wife's '03 Focus if I really need a vehicle desperately, but I don't want to take her vehicle from her.

Once the weather warms, I'm down with not having a vehicle. Until then, it's the frozen tundra without one.

 

You never told us this info. Your max price etc. As for your car insurance takes average of what your car is selling for in the area. Hope that cold area like yours sell a lot of sub compacts. Luckily my Acura TL. Sold like hot cakes yet weren't many to fine so jacked my value so I got 17k for my 08 with 56k miles. So like I asked. Give me 3 colors and max price. I know many that fly out and drive back. If that's an option, cool.

 

Appreciate your efforts, Desmond.

At this point I think I'm going to just chill, wait for the insurance co. offer and take it from there. Sorry, didn't mean to turn this into a post about my experience, I should have just stuck to comparing ride quality and differences in trim level. Once I posted a pic of my trashed GD3, I felt like following up to anyone interested. In retrospect, perhaps not such a good idea.

For what it's worth, I like the GE8 compared to my GD3, but there might not be one in my future. Thanks, all.

 

Don't worry about mileage, get what you like & can afford.

Let me know if I can help out in any way

 

Hence why I gave u my number or to pm me right? But this happens to most of us. Where the personal variable comes into car looking, this is the help you want to have or u'd be putting post up asking if you made the right decision after the fact which can't be fixed at that point. You signed the dotted line. Looking doesn't hurt. With Hondas mileage doesn't matter btw. The engine is just getting happy after 100k. Few brands can say that. Just relax bro. It's fine. I found 2nd Gen in your area for 7k.

 

i had the GD, the earlier GE and the latter GE along with my wife's GK.

The earlier GE rides pretty stiff, if you like softer ride you might want to get the 12+ GE's. the 12 GE that i currently have was too soft for me so i swapped springs to the swifts. even with the swifts the ride is kinda soft for me (still softer than the earlier GE), but it feels better matched to the stock dampers.

hope this helps.

 

I didn't know that about 2nd gen and 2.5 gen. Are there part# differentiating this?