Brakes Question on 2013 Fit Sport
#1
10-12-2016, 11:05 AM
Brakes Question on 2013 Fit Sport
My 13 hit 50K and brakes were feeling lean, upon inspection the pads were pretty low. Turns out the caliper was locked up as well. Took it to my local tire/brake guys.
- Both front calipers were replaced
- New rotors
- new ceramic pads (at my request)
- Flush the system, new fluid and bleed
When I picked the car up the brake pedal felt really spongy and I had to depress pretty far down. Took it back to the guys and according to their recommendation (and my own googling to confirm) they stated they'd adjust the rear brakes to give more pedal feel to the brakes and check the bleeding again.
I got back in the car and there was more pedal feel, but when I tried to pull upon the e-brake, it wouldn't budge. Back to the shop.
They made a few more adjustments to the rear brakes, and now the e-brake pulls up, but only a few clicks. It holds... and in drive or reverse pressing on the gas, the rear brakes are locked.
The Mrs. is having a bit of an issue pulling up on the e-brake but she can do it... I'm wondering should I go back and have it re-adjusted?
- Both front calipers were replaced
- New rotors
- new ceramic pads (at my request)
- Flush the system, new fluid and bleed
When I picked the car up the brake pedal felt really spongy and I had to depress pretty far down. Took it back to the guys and according to their recommendation (and my own googling to confirm) they stated they'd adjust the rear brakes to give more pedal feel to the brakes and check the bleeding again.
I got back in the car and there was more pedal feel, but when I tried to pull upon the e-brake, it wouldn't budge. Back to the shop.
They made a few more adjustments to the rear brakes, and now the e-brake pulls up, but only a few clicks. It holds... and in drive or reverse pressing on the gas, the rear brakes are locked.
The Mrs. is having a bit of an issue pulling up on the e-brake but she can do it... I'm wondering should I go back and have it re-adjusted?
#3
10-12-2016, 11:16 PM
The sponginess in the brakes sounds like air in the brake lines. The shop probably introduced the air into the brake lines when they installed your calipers, or when they flushed your brake system, and then didn't bleed the system properly.
In the rear, they shouldn't be adjusting the shoes tighter to the drums to give you more feel in the pedal. The front brakes do 70-80% of the stopping and the rears do the rest. When you can't pull up the emergency brake handle, they've got the rear shoes adjusted too tight to the drums.You should be able to easily get 3-4 clicks on the emergency brake handle when the handle is pulled up. Most importantly, if you get your rear wheels slightly off the ground, you should be able to spin each rear tire without it binding, if the drums are adjusted properly. If the rear tires won't spin freely, the rear shoes should be re-adjusted with more clearance.
With everything I have said here, it's in response to what you said the shop did. There's always a remote chance that the proportioning valve or the master cylinder could be faulty, but I doubt it with as few miles as you said are on your car. You also basically substantiated that the shop probably caused the problems when you only complained the brakes felt lean/weak when you took it to them. I highly doubt one caliper was frozen either, with your description of how your brakes felt.
I'd check with the manager of the shop and see what he can do for you. If little or nothing is offered, I'd then ask if the current shop will put your old parts back on your car and let the next shop replace what parts they see fit (pun intended). I would then have the car towed to another shop that specializes in brake work. You can always work out a settlement with the first shop if they want payment before you remove your car from their shop, especially if you're not satisfied with how they performed their repairs.
In the rear, they shouldn't be adjusting the shoes tighter to the drums to give you more feel in the pedal. The front brakes do 70-80% of the stopping and the rears do the rest. When you can't pull up the emergency brake handle, they've got the rear shoes adjusted too tight to the drums.You should be able to easily get 3-4 clicks on the emergency brake handle when the handle is pulled up. Most importantly, if you get your rear wheels slightly off the ground, you should be able to spin each rear tire without it binding, if the drums are adjusted properly. If the rear tires won't spin freely, the rear shoes should be re-adjusted with more clearance.
With everything I have said here, it's in response to what you said the shop did. There's always a remote chance that the proportioning valve or the master cylinder could be faulty, but I doubt it with as few miles as you said are on your car. You also basically substantiated that the shop probably caused the problems when you only complained the brakes felt lean/weak when you took it to them. I highly doubt one caliper was frozen either, with your description of how your brakes felt.
I'd check with the manager of the shop and see what he can do for you. If little or nothing is offered, I'd then ask if the current shop will put your old parts back on your car and let the next shop replace what parts they see fit (pun intended). I would then have the car towed to another shop that specializes in brake work. You can always work out a settlement with the first shop if they want payment before you remove your car from their shop, especially if you're not satisfied with how they performed their repairs.
Last edited by 56chevydan; 10-12-2016 at 11:23 PM.
#4
10-13-2016, 08:20 AM
The sponginess in the brakes sounds like air in the brake lines. The shop probably introduced the air into the brake lines when they installed your calipers, or when they flushed your brake system, and then didn't bleed the system properly.
In the rear, they shouldn't be adjusting the shoes tighter to the drums to give you more feel in the pedal. The front brakes do 70-80% of the stopping and the rears do the rest. When you can't pull up the emergency brake handle, they've got the rear shoes adjusted too tight to the drums.You should be able to easily get 3-4 clicks on the emergency brake handle when the handle is pulled up. Most importantly, if you get your rear wheels slightly off the ground, you should be able to spin each rear tire without it binding, if the drums are adjusted properly. If the rear tires won't spin freely, the rear shoes should be re-adjusted with more clearance.
With everything I have said here, it's in response to what you said the shop did. There's always a remote chance that the proportioning valve or the master cylinder could be faulty, but I doubt it with as few miles as you said are on your car. You also basically substantiated that the shop probably caused the problems when you only complained the brakes felt lean/weak when you took it to them. I highly doubt one caliper was frozen either, with your description of how your brakes felt.
I'd check with the manager of the shop and see what he can do for you. If little or nothing is offered, I'd then ask if the current shop will put your old parts back on your car and let the next shop replace what parts they see fit (pun intended). I would then have the car towed to another shop that specializes in brake work. You can always work out a settlement with the first shop if they want payment before you remove your car from their shop, especially if you're not satisfied with how they performed their repairs.
In the rear, they shouldn't be adjusting the shoes tighter to the drums to give you more feel in the pedal. The front brakes do 70-80% of the stopping and the rears do the rest. When you can't pull up the emergency brake handle, they've got the rear shoes adjusted too tight to the drums.You should be able to easily get 3-4 clicks on the emergency brake handle when the handle is pulled up. Most importantly, if you get your rear wheels slightly off the ground, you should be able to spin each rear tire without it binding, if the drums are adjusted properly. If the rear tires won't spin freely, the rear shoes should be re-adjusted with more clearance.
With everything I have said here, it's in response to what you said the shop did. There's always a remote chance that the proportioning valve or the master cylinder could be faulty, but I doubt it with as few miles as you said are on your car. You also basically substantiated that the shop probably caused the problems when you only complained the brakes felt lean/weak when you took it to them. I highly doubt one caliper was frozen either, with your description of how your brakes felt.
I'd check with the manager of the shop and see what he can do for you. If little or nothing is offered, I'd then ask if the current shop will put your old parts back on your car and let the next shop replace what parts they see fit (pun intended). I would then have the car towed to another shop that specializes in brake work. You can always work out a settlement with the first shop if they want payment before you remove your car from their shop, especially if you're not satisfied with how they performed their repairs.
I did bring it back and they bleed the brakes twice and assured there was no air in the lines.
Regarding the caliper; I knew the fronts were pretty low, and was planning on replacing them, actually doing them myself, then traffic stopped abruptly on the highway and I came to a rapid stop (60-0) in a short distance. I'm assuming at that point, the caliper on the right got stuck as the car pulled like crazy. That's when I said, I got to get this checked out.
But they feel a lot better since this post yesterday and it would appear the cable now can go to about 4 clicks. Feels more like an older European short-throw e-brake than newer.
#7
10-16-2016, 10:58 PM
Ive had all sorts of problems with my brakes. Making aweful grinding noises when I stopped. Dealership told me they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Until I got mad and made them take them apart with me standing RIGHT there. Turns out so rusted pads didn't make contact due to the rust blister, and they were completely seizing. "Couldn't find anything". Just under 3 years old. So idk what kind of inspections they were doing with changing my oil, but that was supposed to be one of them. I got them to turn the rotors lube the brakes and throw it back together. Pads are not even half used. Tried telling me I needed new everything
As for the e-brake, mine is the exact same way. I only get 1 or 2 notches. Eventually the cable with stretch a bit, now I get about 4. They adjust it to compensate for cable stretch.
As for pedal feel, they only thing I can think of is my accord had a fualty master cylinder, leaked most of my brake fluid while as was at work. Didn't have much braking power. Felt very spongy.
As for the e-brake, mine is the exact same way. I only get 1 or 2 notches. Eventually the cable with stretch a bit, now I get about 4. They adjust it to compensate for cable stretch.
As for pedal feel, they only thing I can think of is my accord had a fualty master cylinder, leaked most of my brake fluid while as was at work. Didn't have much braking power. Felt very spongy.
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