i recently bought BFG Comp2 A/S 205/50r16s. The reviews give it all high marks for all the categories. For the price it was worth it compared to the Kumhos I was looking at. I drive slow as hell anyway so no point getting summer tires. I also wanted the little leeway it gives me before I need to swap in my snow tires. Sometimes I get too busy to put them in when the temps drop.

 

Hummm I didn't think it would be this complicated to figure out a tire replacement but very educational. Yes best option 2 sets with 2 sets of wheels, one summer one winter. But looking back at my winter driving the stock crappy Dunlop's my 2013 came with were actually best in the winter and I too am a not so fast a driver due to not wanting pending tickets.

These look stock although not the same as my 2013 Sport, these look like the 2015. At $425. no bargain maybe they are worth a lower offer. Your thoughts.

https://newjersey.craigslist.org/wto/6116163878.html

Thanks in advance Linda

 

I wouldn't pay more than $300 for them, but that's just me. I figure OEM wheels to be worth $75 each and place ZERO value on the tires. I don't care how much a OEM replacement costs at the dealer, it's a $75 used wheel. Most of the time the tires are worn, possibly patched, or are the cheapest piece of garbage new tire someone can find because they think the wheels will sell better with new tires?

In regard to aftermarket wheels. Unless really rare or desirable, which in your application you won't be looking for then 50-60% of what I can buy new for. Anymore and you might as well buy new.

 

I saw these same 16 inch wheels with no tires selling for $200. Looks like a great deal. I think they are 16x6 offset 53? This will fit 2011 Base model with stock suspension correct?

 

I guess everyone looks for something different? I'd pay $200 for the wheels without tires. I'd actually prefer to buy the wheels without tires. Unless buying from someone I know, I assume the tires are junk. You don't know if patched, if a cord is broken, and also need to check the mold date on all four tires. The tires might be 8 years old? I wouldn't drive on them if that old regardless of how much thread was left. Some people will, I won't. For sake of discussion, the tires aren't junk and are only a couple years old, they probably wouldn't be the tires I'd buy and drive on anyway. The Craigslist ad that was posted was a month old. If it was such a great deal at $425 they would have been sold a long time ago.

 

if u really want some wheels... i have a set of enkeis u can buy =p

 

What size and offset? How much?

 

sorry not shipping

 

The best set of tires are the ones that are matched to the cars capabilities...

I've had very good luck with Toyo's performance all season tires, Michelins, Goodyears are very nice just $$.
Any extreme sticky tire is going to rapidly overcome the FITS ability its too
flexible and the harder you corner it the sooner the chassis will die.

Had a customer once that insisted on running slicks on a S12 Nissan, now I had the car build pretty well suspension wise,, and it ran great on race DOT tires. The slicks ripped the suspension apart, had to replace the control arms on both ends.. You can actually bend stock steel rims with the right/wrong tires..

 

I put a set of cheap Kuhmo optimos from wally world on mine. They are great for what I use the car for which is daily driving. They work pretty well in the snow and wet pavement. Only drawback is they are pretty noisy although still much quieter than the OEM dunlops. They're warrantied for 70k and it looks like they'll go that far or at least close to it. Only got 25k out of the dunlops and the Kuhmos have plenty of tread with 30k on them.

 

I think the great news, is that the internet and most tire sellers offer tons of user reviews. If you have access to a computer and the internet there really is no excuse for being surprised by either a tires weaknesses or strengths.

I like user reviews, much more than manufacturers claims.
I think some manufacturers sell Tires like old time peddlers use to sell snake oil. That is a tire is going to be a "Miracle Cure". Suddenly a noisy car is going to be quiet. A family sedan is going to handle like a sports car. A gas guzzler is suddenly going to sip gas like a econo-box. And/Or a plain front wheel drive vehicle is suddenly going to handle like an All-Wheel drive vehicle in snow or ice.

All these attributes can be affected, but none I think impacted for the positive as strongly as a lot of manufacturers would tempt you into believing.

I think tires are VERY, VERY important. Therefore I recommend spending money on them. Getting good quality. It's at least a safety issue.
But I like...long term, customer reviews. I think in evaluation they are the most useful.

 

I have Continental Extreme Contact DWS 205/50R16 tires on the OEM 16" rims. The sidewalls stick out a little, but I prefer that because it provides curb protection for the rim. The tires themselves have been great with lower road noise, shorter braking distance and amazing grip in dry/wet/snow. Only con is my MPG went down about 1-2mpg since the tire is wider, but the benefits are more than worth it.

 

Best handling is, as others have said, at odds with some of your other requirements. You need to balance your needs and driving style against your willingness to put up with road noise, ride quality and overall cost of ownership.

My experience over 33 years of driving and fifteen years as a professional European auto technician has me firmly in the Michelin camp. They generally last longer (and provide excellent ride quality at the end of their life cycle). Pay more up front for a longer wearing tire and your per mile cost is actually lower. They will generally provide the best all around compromise for most drivers. If you are an aggressive driver, you will want a tire that skews towards really good grip at the expense of tread wear, rain handling and winter performance. If you live in an area that sees a lot of snow you will want dedicated winter tires. If you live in a moderate climate like Virginia where I live, an all-season Michelin tire is probably a very good fit for you.

 

The tires I mention here are not "performance" tires but are "good-handling tires for most normal driving purposes." Also, it looks like Michelin makes only one tire in my size, for a 2015 Fit LX with the original wheels, 185/60-15 – the "Defender" tire in the H speed rating. Honda specifies that T-rated, for up to 118 mph (190 kmh) is good enough. H-rated, for up to 130 mph (210 kmh) is better than needed.

Apparently Michelin has stopped making the T speed-rating Defenders, and is only making the H speed-rating Defenders now. Discount Tire wanted about $105 each (plus installation) for the H-rated Defenders. The T-rated Defenders I was planning to buy had been offered at about $90 each, but they couldn't get those any more, so I decided to go with some Pirelli P4 Four Season Plus tires at $75 each, instead of the Michelins. $120 less for a set of 4 tires. Consumers Reports rated the Pirellis nearly as good as the Michelins, with the Pirellis rated excellent for low rolling resistance and therefore low fuel consumption as opposed the Michelin's "very good," and the Michelins rated very good for handling as opposed to the Pirellis being "good." The Michelins were rated excellent for "noise level," a step better than the "very good" Pirellis. Right on the tires, Michelin says tread wear rated at 800, Pirelli says 760. Both claim a 90,000 mile waranty. Since I do less than 10,000 miles per year, I am likely to have brittle, cracking tires before I run out of tread, with either tire. So I figured I'd go for the Pirellis. I usually buy Michelin. This is my first Pirelli purchase. So far they seem pretty good. I've only had them a day or 2 but so far they seem better than the original Firestones. The way they .respond to my steering wheel control feels better. Grip well on turns on wet roads; stop well on wet roads (it's been raining continually coninuously here since I drove out of the tire shop).

The first 2 times I had service at Discount tire they jacked up my car without damaging the pinch weld anywhere, but this last time they bent the right rear weld a bit. They jacked the car up just ahead of the reinforced area, instead of on it. Seems all the big lifts were occupied with other cars because they jacked mine up with 4 rolling jacks.

3 tires were manufactured early in 2018, one was manufactured week 32 of 2017 (just short of one year ago).

The Pirellis looked new – I could see the mold marks on the tread – but they had only 8.5 mm of tread depth! Most tires start out with 10 to 12. Could Pirelli have really improved the rubber composition so much that a tire with an 8.5 mm deep tread will last about as long as a tire with 10 mm?

Unusual-looking tire. Pictures of the tire (with a dislaimer about how well they represent an actual tire) show 2 circumferential grooves. Most tires have 4. The (fairly narrow) 185/60-15 Pirellis for my Fit, had only 1. It was a rather wide groove.

 

 

Snow tires are more important than fun summer tires.

 

 

The tires folks don't like here are the OEM tires offered on this car. Even the best companies make a bad tire or two, in Dunlop's case this is one of their bad tires.

I don't know about Dunlop's snow tires, I have Bridgestone Blizzak WS80 on my car for snow months.

 

 

I've heard good things about the Barum Polaris and General Altimax Arctic.
Both are part of the Continental tire family (which I'm a big fan of for their relatively-lower price vs. Michelins, very good performance, and their great warranty coverage).

I just got my Fit this Spring, and I'm planning to get one of those 2 tires once the Fall rebate season heats up.