Wheel Lug Nut Nuts Torque Pounds Torq Tork Torqe
#1
Wheel Lug Nut Nuts Torque Pounds Torq Tork Torqe
Made this thread so people can search for and find the answer.
Wheel Lug Nut Torque is 80 Ft/Lbs
Just saw the sticky.......lol......but I'm Search Challenged, so this will help people with a similar affliction.........
Philosophy and Purpose of Life: Faster Horses, yw, ow, and More Money
z
Wheel Lug Nut Torque is 80 Ft/Lbs
Just saw the sticky.......lol......but I'm Search Challenged, so this will help people with a similar affliction.........
Philosophy and Purpose of Life: Faster Horses, yw, ow, and More Money
z
Last edited by Zardiw; 09-02-2017 at 11:27 AM.
#3
Lug nuts do NOT 'back out'.........lmao
Unless you TOTALLY Screw up when mounting the wheel..........and even then I've never heard of it.
You DID notice the taper on the nuts right?
Or is this just a Troll........lol
z
#4
Lug nuts can actually back out and loosen a little. Even if torqued to spec with a properly calibrated torque wrench and the matching lug nut taper for the wheel used (Ball in seat which is common Honda/Acura, Mag seat, or taper which is common aftermarket).
Mind you... in most situations like the typical daily driver, there will not be a substantial difference between the initial torque and the recheck after driving. I typically see maybe an 1/8 of a rotation on my street car during rechecks, a little more on the Fit (about an 1/8 to almost a 1/4 if driven HARD) which sees a lot of autocross.
General rule of thumb of a street car: Torque to spec (80 bs in our case) during mounting/servicing then recheck after about 25 to 50 miles of driving.
Anything that sees autocross, road course, or sees a lot of spirited driving should be checked before and after each event as well as between sessions/heats.
#5
Pfft, BULLSHIT!
General rule of thumb of a street car: Torque to spec (80 bs in our case) during mounting/servicing then recheck after about 25 to 50 miles of driving.
Anything that sees autocross, road course, or sees a lot of spirited driving should be checked before and after each event as well as between sessions/heats.
General rule of thumb of a street car: Torque to spec (80 bs in our case) during mounting/servicing then recheck after about 25 to 50 miles of driving.
Anything that sees autocross, road course, or sees a lot of spirited driving should be checked before and after each event as well as between sessions/heats.
#9
no problem.. it's good to have that knowledge.. especially when running steelies i had to retorque the factory lugs like 6-7 times before they would stay in place at 80lbs/ft.
dealers tend to use upwards 100-110lbs as a precaution of lugs backing out. this is why people end up with broken studs and lugs they can't remove with the factory emergency wrench in the car..
dealers tend to use upwards 100-110lbs as a precaution of lugs backing out. this is why people end up with broken studs and lugs they can't remove with the factory emergency wrench in the car..
#13
The first torquing inevitably leaves some uneven stress at the interface between the wheel at the hub. As the car rolls, forces are applied to the interface and this stress gets redistributed. This subtly moves the wheel relative to the hub and can back out nuts. Assuming the parts are in good shape and made to match each other (and the nuts haven't backed out TOO much), a second torquing tends to hold as there is less redistribution going on.
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