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I purchased my GE recently, changed out the OEM plugs with Laser Iradium Premium #IZFR6k13
Didnt check gap, installed. rode around first 10 miles fine.
Stars misfiring(i'm guessing with light jerk of engine) at idle and worse with AC.
took the plugs out, checked gap, seemed to be all good.
put them back in and moved OEM coils around.
Still misfire but not as bad. gave up and replaced plugs back with OEM plugs.
After about 5 days later I started to feel the misfire again.
What can be causing this? Non torqued plugs? too tight plugs? too loose? stripped theads(i doubt this)
I used anti sieze and dielectric grease and made sure not to put on tip of plug.
any help will be greatly appreciated!
I will be getting an valve adjustment soon just dont want to get this done yet till i pinpoint what the issue is.
^they were actually fairly clean. Maybe some very very light white/brown marking but nothing that didn’t look normal. I will probably buy some OEM plugs and snap some photos when I install.
Also going to add, the misfire isn’t all the time. Very minimal at times and sometimes not. Not as bad as as it was with the non oem plug. I could feel that every 10-15 seconds.
Went ahead and pulled the plugs tonight. Here are some photos #2 has some very light oil residue on top. Maybe even #3. These are the original plugs that came out from the car. The oil is new, maybe 10 days total since I last checked the plugs.
Drove the the car around. Still misfires no CEL. Doesnt do it much at idle, but after driving it around I can feel it after it shifts into 3 in low rpm and 4th in low rpm. Kinda of Bogging?
things to add, I have a oil leak(I’ve only seen it drip twice so I cleaned it up from under the car. Couldn’t trace it back to where it’s coming from.(this photo is old( I’ve already cleaned it up at the bottom) tried to trace it up but it’s past whatever boot is sitting right above it(boot is dirty too) can a leaky value cover gasket cause these symptoms? I don’t know how me changing plugs can make this direct reaction.
I'm assuming it's an automatic transmission. Have you checked the level / changed the ATF? What does it look like (dark / opaque and does it smell like it's burnt? Wonder if "misfire" between 3rd & 4th gears is transmission related since no CEL indicating a substantial coil pack / spark plug issue. If manual, I'd still check fluid level and condition.
Is the oil leak engine oil or transmission fluid? My buddy ('10 Sport MT) paid ~$1500 to fix a rear seal on engine and new clutch. Found out after back together he had busted 5th gear synchronizer and had to spend another $2000 for used tranny and labor.
The gap was fine in the Iridiums. The photo is of the OEM ones I never bothered checking. I don’t have any history other than what I’ve done to it(nothing) lol.
i ordered some recommended denso plugs and possibly just gonna but 1 coil to swap out each one and see how that goes
Purchased it at 99k. Changed spark plugs originally at 102k, has only a few more past that. The gap was all even, if I remember correctly .042(I’ll check back on my gauge cause I marked it with a sharpie. All I really made sure was if it was even and that the gap matched a thread on here to make sure it was correct, which it was. Do you have anymore helpful information?
Last edited by RainierV; Oct 17, 2018 at 11:30 PM.
Knowing the mileage helps. That is really close to when my good friends GE blew a spark plug out of the head.
However, your coils all look nice and black (brown is a sign of a leaking plug) so, I don't think you have the dreaded leaking spark plug issue.
It's good that the car triggered the CEL. With the code we'll be able to know better what's going on, but my guess is that you need a valve adjustment.
If the code points to one cylinder only, then try swapping coils and see if the code follows that coil to the other cylinder. If it does, than you know it's the coil.
If the code is random misfire, chances are real good that it needs a valve adjustment.
If those plugs are in their respective coil packs, to me, it doesn't look like you have any blow-by from a loose plug. You can see how mine was sooty and also had odor of gasoline. I'm still using this same coil pack on same position but a new plug with a dab of blue threadlocker. No problems over last +30K miles. Damn dealer got me for a new coil pack plus labor & original diagnostic ($160 + $50 +$50) and never checked the plugs, so CEL back on the next day. They said, "Oh, you must need another coil pack." What a scam. Several yrs later, I talked to a tech who was in a welding class with me and he said loose plugs on FITs in a "known" problem. So, changing / charging for coil packs is just a money maker not true customer service.
Last Sunday I changed the Ignition coils and spark plugs on my 2009 Fit with 99k miles.
The old ones were Hitachi Ignition coils as expected and it had NGK IZFR6K13 spark plugs, same as I replaced it with. They were gaped properly from the factory (I checked).
I believe both were there since the car was made. I torqued the plugs to 16 ft-lbs.
Nothing showed signs of any leakage or loose plugs.
