I have an '09 Sport that has 212k on it - I drive about 25k a year and it's been an amazing car. It's broken down once and needed a $250 repair - that's the only repair I've done on it! I've kept it maintenanced through Honda.

Soooo, last month I had B12345 on my minder. The day before I took it in, the check engine light came on (no symptoms). This is the list they came up with:

Brakes (did this)
B123 (did this)
4/5? Serpentine Belt, Spark Plugs, Water Pump - Have NOT done this ($750 quote)

They say the engine light is indicating I need a new catalytic converter. ($2100 quote!!! They said the part is $1800 and labor $300). I can't remember if they said it was the front or back converter, but it wasn't both. I found the part easily for under $500 online, so I'm guessing I can easily get this done for $800 or less at a different shop. So the engine light was off when they gave it back - I'm assuming they reset it, and thought it would come right back on -it didn't. Around 2-3 weeks later it came on for a day and went back off.

So how do I tell if I really need a new catalytic converter? Wait for the light to come back on and take it to a different shop? Could they tell anything now if I took it while the light was off?

I also have some creaking when I go over bumps (shocks? struts?), and will need new tires within a few months. So I'm looking at everything that needs to be done and wondering if I put the money into in, or it's just time to move on. WWYD?

Oh, and last question - KBB says it is worth 3500-4500 (private party) - it has some minor dings on front and back bumpers and the interior is in fair/good condition (no smoking). I took the quiz and KBB still rated it "good" with needing mechanical work etc. Does it really seem like it is worth 4kish if I decide to replace it?

 

I'd say this is completely up to you to decide, but here's the factors to consider...

- Smarter people than I say it's never financially better to get a new car vs fix an old one.
- Lots has changed since 2009 with safety and tech. New cars simply offer much more of both.
- New car has less likelihood of needing service which is better if you are in a position where you must get to work.
- If you keep your 2009, now is a good time to research and find an independent shop. Dealers charge a very high premium and often do sub-par work.

 

Yeah, I know there is no "right" answer, just looking for opinions. I'm not worried about the tech, more safety is always good. The shop....ugh. We have tried a lot with other vehicles. I have one guy I trust, but he takes awhile, and the customer has to bring the parts. The last couple of issues we took to him (my husband's vehicle) were things he doesn't work on. I've gotten recommendations from friends and still had horrible experiences.

 

Did they say what was wrong with the catalytic converter? The 'packing' may be separating from the 'housing' and mucking up your O2 sensor leading to a CEL.

I asked myself this same question all summer, came to the conclusion I'd much rather spend the equivalent of two or three car payments a year to keep my existing car in tip-top shape than to spend 4x that on an endlessly depreciating asset.

And building a new car is hyper environmentally wasteful, whereas there's already a sunk cost in my existing car.

 

We don't often agree, but I agree with this one. To that end, there's also a significant environmental impact to car makers bringing out new models. Consumers demand change, but running models longer is better for the environment.

 

No, they didn't say housing vs packing, they just said it was failing. After researching I did go back and ask them what was the cause of it failing (bad spark plugs etc.) and they said there was no primary cause- that is was just age.

Is there a mileage or year where you do feel its best to replace? I wouldnt get a new car, definitely looking used. I know that I've been very fortunate with no repairs, but now that I just paid $800 and looking at maybe $1800ish? more for converter at a different shop, spark plugs, and tires, it just makes me question if this is time.

 

These modern catalytic converters are really durable. I'm betting yours is fine. Water pump is also probably fine. Changing a non-leaking water pump is just preemptive and not required at all.

If it were my car, I'd focus on getting new plugs, belt, and a valve adjustment if not done within the past 100k miles.

The water pump and catalytic converter could possible last another 200k miles.

The check engine light could be from the plugs or out of spec valves. Either can cause a rich or lean condition or a mis-fire and trigger the CEL. Any of those can also damage the cat over time, so better to address those early if possible.

 

Exactly this.

If the cat is in fact bad, I'd just buy a universal cat and a new O2 sensor, take it to a decent independent shop and have them get things set up.

Oh, btw a serpentine belt & spark plugs needing to be replaced aren't failures, that's just regular maintenance that the average car owner doesn't do nearly often enough. Every 100k or so is a happy number to be at, those things used to fail much, much earlier.

 

If, after having the plugs changed and the valves adjusted, the CEL comes back and it's a cat threshold code, you can buy the front cat from RockAuto for under $300 shipped. It's a simple bolt on that any shop can do.

The code would only be from the front cat as there is not a sensor after the rear cat.

 

Thank you, this sounds like a good plan!

 

Oh, I know they aren't failures. I've put plenty of money in for maintenance which is (partly) why I haven't had but 1 repair in all these miles! This is the first car I've had over 200k miles (of course, it's also the first car I bought brand new and kept maintained). So even though tires, belts, and plugs are to be expected combine that with the catalytic converter (possible) issue and it just adds up.

By the way, should I do an O2 sensor before replacing the catalytic converter if the light comes back on after I do plugs?

 

If I end up having to buy one, I may come back and ask you if I'm looking at the right one!

 

Oh, and one more - my TPMS light came on - never has before. I inflated my tires and it didn't go off. From what I've read this is just a malfunction of the light correct? It doesn't mean something is still wrong with the tires?

 

Does it say TPMS or is it the (!) light?

 

 

Says TPMS. I've had the low air light before but never this one.

 

Do I have to remove the sensor to do this? I'm clueless....google and YouTube are my friends.

 

Yeah that's a sensor failure unfortunately. I'm going to sound like an apologist again, but nine/ten years is a solid run for one of them to be honest.

 

To expand on the TPMS sensor, they have a permanent battery inside that eventually dies.

I would probably replace all 4 since they are the same age and, in theory, they should last about the same time. If you can coordinate tire replacement with tpms sensor install, you can save some money. I can't advocate for anyone to drive with that light on, but somehow I'm alive after driving many years without tpms sensors. A walk around each morning with periodic pressure checks worked pretty well for decades.

The sensors can be bought from eBay, Amazon, etc for not too much money.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Honda-F...torefresh=true

 

Dead battery?