***To all that have dyno numbers on their intakes... your contribution would be much appreciated. Please note other mods that were installed during your dyno...

Will soon put these three on dyno and see what numbers they can pull...
OEM stock, HACK and PRM... stay tuned

More info on HACK aka Lyon-intake-mod can be found HERE...

PRM vs OEM

HACK with aFe Pro 5R Air Filter 24-30001 vs PRM

 

This should be interesting!

 

Strong work Evil!!


I don't have dyno graphs, but I did post 0-60 mph tests before and after my PRM intake here --> https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge-08-present/59601-dynolicious.html

My best 0-60 time was 8.6-8.7 seconds with the stock airbox.

My best 0-60 time with the PRM intake was 8.4-8.5 but I was only able to do 2 runs and I was getting alot of wheel slip (It took 5-6 runs before I was laying down consistent times when I orginally tested the app with the stock airbox). As a result, the 8.4-8.5 times probably compare better with the 9.0-9.1 times I was getting originally with the stock airbox.

I need to repeat the test here in the next few days.

It would be interesting for you to get the Dynolicious app and test 0-60 times with each type of airbox. Just a thought.

 

Thanks for posting images with the measuring tape. It's interesting to note the sensor location and overall length of tubing are very close b/w the two. However, tube diameter where it connects to the TB appears to be much larger with the DIY. Theoretically, this could result in a decrease in air velocity and possibly more turbulence. As you might recall Evil, the PRM instructions specifically state that the metal tube containing the sensor should line up exactly with the angle of the coupler to preserve laminar airflow. I don't know how this translates to the DIY design...?

 

i say 1-2hp difference.

 

The 45 degree coupler on the diy gave it the illusion of being larger, it is 2.5" like that of the PRM. The diy with the 45 degree coupler is just a tad more bend vs that of the PRM. It may or may not even be a factor. I also have shorten the diy angled coupler, took .75" to compensate fitting issues making both prm and diy almost and about of the same length. The obvious difference of the two is how the PRM's 2" tubing extends more then bends and has a less pronounced velocity stack. the diy on the other hand has a short 2" id just enough to make the MAF sensor do it's job and then gets a more pronounced velocity stack, not really a by a huge margin but noticeable. On a side note, I'm a big fan of Fujita's F5 filter and the PRM filter exhibits this feature exaggeratedly which looks very potent. How would all these translate to both intakes? I don't know but would soon find out.

 

I would be nice to see a K&N Typhoon thrown in to the mix too.

 

for strong statistical power, lets run 100 pulls with each intake, and see some real standard deviations with lower and upper control limits.

cuz i always wondered why there hasn't been stats on this kind of stuff before

and everyone is just under the assumption "well... there is no difference..."

 

That would be nice.. but who will help pay for the 300 dyno pulls?

 

I'm really digging the nice deep tones on my DIY compared to PRM's more prominent mid tones.

 

I posted all these in the chatbox thread recently.

K&N


Takeda


PRM


Weapon R (dynapack)

 

It looks like the L15a7 responds well to SRI

 

mmmh... kinda strange that the k&n seems to have less horsepower than stock fit And weapon R seems to be the most efficient... maybe what they say about it is true after all, never heard of anyone who owns one... i wonder what's the top fuel like...

 

k&N numbers look like it's really from a GD and not a GE.

You should be very suspicious when you see a SRI increase BOTH low end TQ and high RPM HP....SRI really shouldn't increase low end TQ. That's CAI territory due to the longer tube length.

 

Why was this done in 2nd gear? That's going to really throw the tq curve.

 

Ah, didn't notice that. I found the pic from a JDM car owner's carview page, and unless they are really into being a trickster, it is from their car. There were also pics of the vehicle. I think the K&N dyno is probably fairly indicative of what these can do. There is someone on here who just did a baseline GE dyno and it was 90 whp, almost the same as the K&N, so maybe he will redyno with another intake and we can compare. Calibration is different across all of them of course, and there is a dynapack in there, which will read high.

blackndecker - The torque is increased on the PRM down low and up top as well.

Some of you have probably noticed that the Hondatuning magazine project fit with the takeda didn't make more power up top with an intake and exhaust than stock. People have looked to that article like it was gospel, and based on everything else I've seen out there, it's really not indicative of the hp gains made by bolt ons with this car. The plugs, if they do make any power, are an interesting tidbit though. People have said, "why waste money on the Fit - it's slow." I've been pretty happy with mine, and can see with an extra 10 whp or so, it would really be a lot of fun, and plenty fast enough to zip around in traffic in. I have yet to find a situation that a shift to 3rd on the highway, or an instant throttle application or jerk of the wheel couldn't get me out of.

We need more dynos from one car, with multiple mods and different stages under the same conditions. I'd love to do that, but it's not an option considering how few mods I can get away with in my current situation (can't be loud.)

Edit: also, the K&N is marking the max gain, and not the max horsepower, looks like.

 

Takeda CAI TA-1003P

I copied the image from their website...
Cold Air Intake System Takeda Intakes Honda Fit 09 L4-1.5L TA-1003P - aFe Power

 

Another WR dyno.
from this thread...
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...o-results.html

stock whp is lower than the other dyno above.

DYNO TESTED ON A 09 HONDA FIT 5 SPEED.
THIS IS A DYNO OF STOCK VEHICLE VS. WR COLD AIR INTAKE.



Here is the STOCK vs. The 2.5" MAF Sensor Section. The ECU totally Didnt like it..

 

LOL...I saw that as well and was part of my skepticism comment. You guys must think that I've sold my soul to the PRM gods. I really don't have a dog in the fight....I hope the best mod wins...even if it's the DIY.

I was commenting more on the practical differences in intakes. It has been pretty well established across all different types of engines that a SRI is good for gains at the top of the power curve and maximizing throttle response. CAI on the other hand, with their longer tube length (that's what she said) consistently show gains in the low/mid range with slight dimunition of the throttle response.

If all graphs are in fact typical of the response of the L15a7 to simple bolts-ons, then this is quite fascinating indeed....and takes us back to the glory days of honda tuning (The K motors respond quite dramatically to bolt-ons as well). I would like to see before and after of a fully bolted up Fit....i.e. SRI vs. CAI, header, exhaust, plugs, and pulley.

 

The WR graph looks suspiciously similar to the graph they passed around from their header. Color me suspicious, but I really question these graphs since they all (except the independently conducted Honda Tuning dyno pulls) show absolutely no losses anywhere in the power curve...nothing but gains. Hmmmm...