Some issues with new-used Fit
#1
07-12-2019, 12:57 PM
Some issues with new-used Fit
Hey, folks!
We picked up our first car after going car-free for three years here in Seattle. I used to have an '07 Fit, so we shot for getting another one. We test-drove a few and finally settled on one from a private party that had the Carfax, a very thorough inspection report done just a week prior, and they even fixed a few small things. This car has 120,500 miles on it and is in pretty good shape overall, despite being the highest mileage vehicle I've owned. I don't think that's a lot of miles for these cars if they're taken care of.
Here are some issues with the vehicle, most of which I didn't notice during my pretty extensive test drive:
I'd love any insight into these issues. Unfortunately, we live in an apartment now, so no garage or anything to work from, but I could make trips to a friend's place on the weekends. I'd like to come prepared for that though, as it's 30 miles out.
We picked up our first car after going car-free for three years here in Seattle. I used to have an '07 Fit, so we shot for getting another one. We test-drove a few and finally settled on one from a private party that had the Carfax, a very thorough inspection report done just a week prior, and they even fixed a few small things. This car has 120,500 miles on it and is in pretty good shape overall, despite being the highest mileage vehicle I've owned. I don't think that's a lot of miles for these cars if they're taken care of.
Here are some issues with the vehicle, most of which I didn't notice during my pretty extensive test drive:
- TPMS light stuck on; inspection report says not an issue
- Check Engine light comes on randomly; inspection report says not an issue
- Gas smell from engine bay - noticeable with windows down or fresh air vent on
- High-ish pitch fan noise in engine bay - I think it's the radiator fan, as it doesn't usually come on during city driving. It's an intermittent noise. Not extremely noisy or annoying, but definitely don't want any rubbing.
- Passenger Front side suspension sounds "loose" - initial thought is the
CV bootsway bar link - Washer nozzles don't work and no pump noise; checking fuse and electrical currant at fuse slot this weekend, and will check for vibration in lines when pulling washer activator
I'd love any insight into these issues. Unfortunately, we live in an apartment now, so no garage or anything to work from, but I could make trips to a friend's place on the weekends. I'd like to come prepared for that though, as it's 30 miles out.
Last edited by uRabbit; 07-12-2019 at 01:44 PM.
#2
07-12-2019, 01:08 PM
That's a lot of issues... a CEL would instantly chase me away, not that I would buy a used car in the first place (my dad might). I don't like buying used, because I'd never know just how bad things could get... it'd be pointless to save 75% over a new vehicle, only to spend that difference on repair after repair just to get it to a decent condition.
TPMS could be a couple of things... like dead battery, broken sensor or flat out incompatible sensor that couldn't be programmed if the previous owner bought an aftermarket set. I've gone through two aftermarket sets that were successfully programmed into the system. Or worse, it could be a faulty system (not sensor).
For the CEL, you'd need to plug a OBDII reader in and pull current and pending DTCs.
As for the rest, I have no idea.
I don't know what this inspection report is... but I'd say its pretty f-ing useless.
TPMS could be a couple of things... like dead battery, broken sensor or flat out incompatible sensor that couldn't be programmed if the previous owner bought an aftermarket set. I've gone through two aftermarket sets that were successfully programmed into the system. Or worse, it could be a faulty system (not sensor).
For the CEL, you'd need to plug a OBDII reader in and pull current and pending DTCs.
As for the rest, I have no idea.
I don't know what this inspection report is... but I'd say its pretty f-ing useless.
#3
07-12-2019, 03:34 PM
We could get into a debate about used vs new, but instant depreciation is something I'm not fond of, and I buy everything in full, and carry zero debts.
I'll go borrow a reader from a local auto parts place. Unfortunately, the one I went to yesterday was staffed with folks that didn't seem to understand much. :/
I'm not too worried about the noise from the Passenger Front side. Sway bar links are a known weak point in these cars, and at 120,500 miles I expect it to be making some noises.
The ones I am a bit worried about are a) the gas smell, but thankfully it's not in the cabin, b) the washer pump.
I'll go borrow a reader from a local auto parts place. Unfortunately, the one I went to yesterday was staffed with folks that didn't seem to understand much. :/
I'm not too worried about the noise from the Passenger Front side. Sway bar links are a known weak point in these cars, and at 120,500 miles I expect it to be making some noises.
The ones I am a bit worried about are a) the gas smell, but thankfully it's not in the cabin, b) the washer pump.
#4
07-12-2019, 04:08 PM
I have to agree....
That's a lot of issues.
And Inspection report or not....the check engine light being on...is IMO always an issue. That's kind of why it lights up in the first place. I mean, "Not an issue" is not an answer to that issue. Unless they can tell you, and prove to you why it illuminated, then fix the issue and turn it off? It's an issue.
Similarly the TPMS light...well you can reset that yourself. But before I would to that, I'd check the tires, both condition and PSI.
Loose suspension "sound".
Gasoline "smell".
Well, I'm not mechanic enough to speculate, nor is that description in depth enough for me to come to any conclusions. But again I don't want any problems with my suspension, and you shouldn't really be smelling gasoline coming from your engine bay.
The whole litany of other things you are describing are possibly VERY disturbing.
I hope they all turn out to be minor issues. But I really have no idea. And I also think an inspection report that is simply dismissing the check engine light, without any further explanation? Is BS.
If they inspect it and it IS nothing? Then why not turn it off....and not expect it to return. It doesn't illuminate on a whim.
Hope you have purchased a vehicle worth owning. Good Luck.
That's a lot of issues.
And Inspection report or not....the check engine light being on...is IMO always an issue. That's kind of why it lights up in the first place. I mean, "Not an issue" is not an answer to that issue. Unless they can tell you, and prove to you why it illuminated, then fix the issue and turn it off? It's an issue.
Similarly the TPMS light...well you can reset that yourself. But before I would to that, I'd check the tires, both condition and PSI.
Loose suspension "sound".
Gasoline "smell".
Well, I'm not mechanic enough to speculate, nor is that description in depth enough for me to come to any conclusions. But again I don't want any problems with my suspension, and you shouldn't really be smelling gasoline coming from your engine bay.
The whole litany of other things you are describing are possibly VERY disturbing.
I hope they all turn out to be minor issues. But I really have no idea. And I also think an inspection report that is simply dismissing the check engine light, without any further explanation? Is BS.
If they inspect it and it IS nothing? Then why not turn it off....and not expect it to return. It doesn't illuminate on a whim.
Hope you have purchased a vehicle worth owning. Good Luck.
#5
07-12-2019, 04:28 PM
Please see below!
Here are some issues with the vehicle, most of which I didn't notice during my pretty extensive test drive: -- it is Murphy's law: on my 87 Camry the master cylinder failed in one week after very extensive freeway drive!
I'd love any insight into these issues. Unfortunately, we live in an apartment now, so no garage or anything to work from, but I could make trips to a friend's place on the weekends. I'd like to come prepared for that though, as it's 30 miles out.
See me after class! 
Here are some issues with the vehicle, most of which I didn't notice during my pretty extensive test drive: -- it is Murphy's law: on my 87 Camry the master cylinder failed in one week after very extensive freeway drive!
- TPMS light stuck on; inspection report says not an issue --missing sensor from the valve/dead battery in the tire valve ($$)
- Check Engine light comes on randomly; inspection report says not an issue --combined with gas smell under hood, I could speculate that the gas vapor purge hose has cracks, however can be a sign of loose spark plug as well (especially if smell is present when engine is running !) Scan the code right away!!
- Gas smell from engine bay - noticeable with windows down or fresh air vent on --see above
- High-ish pitch fan noise in engine bay - I think it's the radiator fan, as it doesn't usually come on during city driving. It's an intermittent noise. Not extremely noisy or annoying, but definitely don't want any rubbing.
- Passenger Front side suspension sounds "loose" - initial thought is the
CV bootsway bar link -- serpentine belt/ idler pulley bearing/ alternator diode is dying; suspension noise: lower control arm rear bushing, internal tie rod end (sway bar end links will show up when driving over the speed bump with one wheel only; sound like someone hitting floor with the hammer - Washer nozzles don't work and no pump noise; checking fuse and electrical currant at fuse slot this weekend, and will check for vibration in lines when pulling washer activator -- my last thing to worry about
I'd love any insight into these issues. Unfortunately, we live in an apartment now, so no garage or anything to work from, but I could make trips to a friend's place on the weekends. I'd like to come prepared for that though, as it's 30 miles out.
Last edited by doctor J; 07-12-2019 at 04:30 PM.
#7
07-12-2019, 04:47 PM
That is a lot of issues for a Honda.
- Front end loose. It is possible the wheels are not properly torqued or suspension bits are broken. Either can be deadly so get looked at ASAP. STOP DRIVING.
- Check engine light may or may not be serious. Only way to know is scan and analysis.
- Gas smell is a problem. Could be a gas leak so an explosive situation that needs to be fixed ASAP.
-----But it might be the popular loose spark plug issue. There are plenty of recent posts here. You can DIY replace and retorque spark plugs in a few hours. Independent shop will probably charge over $200 in my area. Loose spark plugs can eject and strip the head which is an fix well over $1000. Plug might have already ejected which is reason car was sold. Regardless, you need to check torque on plugs ASAP to avoid risk of spark plug ejection.
- Whistling noise might be bad belt, bad tensioner, bad alternator, bad AC compressor, etc. The alternator might be $300 and the AC might be $800 at my independent shop.
Really sorry to hear about these problems. Happens to a lot of people unfortunately.
Do you have some lemon law for private party sales? Opportunity to put the car back to the seller?
In any case, have a trusted local mechanic do a real inspection and price out repairs. There is the possibility that you should cut your losses and sell the car for scrap. Don't throw good money after bad. The FIT should be a reliable economy car, not a money pit.
- Front end loose. It is possible the wheels are not properly torqued or suspension bits are broken. Either can be deadly so get looked at ASAP. STOP DRIVING.
- Check engine light may or may not be serious. Only way to know is scan and analysis.
- Gas smell is a problem. Could be a gas leak so an explosive situation that needs to be fixed ASAP.
-----But it might be the popular loose spark plug issue. There are plenty of recent posts here. You can DIY replace and retorque spark plugs in a few hours. Independent shop will probably charge over $200 in my area. Loose spark plugs can eject and strip the head which is an fix well over $1000. Plug might have already ejected which is reason car was sold. Regardless, you need to check torque on plugs ASAP to avoid risk of spark plug ejection.
- Whistling noise might be bad belt, bad tensioner, bad alternator, bad AC compressor, etc. The alternator might be $300 and the AC might be $800 at my independent shop.
Really sorry to hear about these problems. Happens to a lot of people unfortunately.
Do you have some lemon law for private party sales? Opportunity to put the car back to the seller?
In any case, have a trusted local mechanic do a real inspection and price out repairs. There is the possibility that you should cut your losses and sell the car for scrap. Don't throw good money after bad. The FIT should be a reliable economy car, not a money pit.
#8
07-12-2019, 07:23 PM
Thanks for turning me on to this, Fiting! Been weird times. Still injured, now moving cross country.. what a life 
In regards to the above: I'd like to second all of it. (It didnt quote right.. but, the list)
For the TPMS
the sensors have lifespans, after which they get swapped out. Its been estimated at like, 5-6 years, but that really is a trashy estimate. Check your tire pressure :} if memory serves, so long as all tires are within 25% pressure difference of each other, that light should be off. You could take and post a pic of the valve stem and we could tell you if its just dead orrrr replaced with traditional stems (more likely than someone messing with the system, especially since they didn't deactivate the light.)
Think the next one was fuel stink. Totally. Not. Chill.
Most likely culprits are indeed vac line stuff annnnd spark plugs (#1). Bad vacuum lines arent honda's new style. They use some seriously premium rubber now (lookin' at you, american manufacturers), but vac should be considered after a plug inspection or asap if you suspect rodents could be a possibility.
Do check those plugs. We nag because of PTSD.
Uh.. from memory now. Suspension!!
Tie rods on the second gen are as beefy as it gets. They're head and shoulders above moog bone-stock (though if we were talking about sway bar end links, yeah those are meh)
I'd like to recommend jacking up the front end and shaking the wheels. Up down (ball joint) left right (tie rod) every direction (wheel bearing). Any play at ALL is too much. We can move forward after that and I can also upload some grease points (and grease types) IF you want!
Edit: while you're there, look for grease on the rubber bushings. Guessing you know that, but yeah. Caked brake dust is one thing, but grease goes on the to-do list.
Uhh. Fan/belt/pulley noise. The fans are electric so, if its the fan, you know, find a reasonably priced new fan. For the other stuff (hope youve got a healthy wrist): twist the serpentine belt to check the ribbed section for cracks. Between the ribs. You know, mush it around, if theres any cracks, replace. Prolly should replace anyways BUT I understand financial troubles.. can take the belt off too but hopefully not necessary and you can twist.
With the car all assembled, and in good lighting or with a bright flashlight (recommended to see all pulleys), turn it on all the way and then go watch the serpentine belt do its thing. It should be straight as an arrow. Any hint of wobbles means you probably found a noise source.
-intermission-
Should mention, would recommend checking oil, coolant, and tranny fluid levels as well as the air filter.
Tell whoever did your inspection that we hate them. My father's the kind of guy that dresses up beaters, runs leak stopping additives, "guaranteed to pass" fuel additives for smog/improving idle, cover up rod nock with heavier oil.. tried to tell em the devil's got a hot beer set for em. But yeah.. those "guys" are out there.
Sorry for preachin when you clearly have a grasp, just, you know..
In regards to the CEL, or even the general stuff if you've got the pockets, an inspection from honda can go a long way. If I was in your shoes, I would fork over the $120, when you're able..
"Do you have some lemon law for private party sales? Opportunity to put the car back to the seller?
In any case, have a trusted local mechanic do a real inspection and price out repairs. There is the possibility that you should cut your losses and sell the car for scrap. Don't throw good money after bad. The FIT should be a reliable economy car, not a money pit." Thats good honest advice. We'll work with yuh whatever your choice though.
final edit: thumbs up for all the people in this thread. Lots of good grey matter.
In regards to the above: I'd like to second all of it. (It didnt quote right.. but, the list)
For the TPMS
the sensors have lifespans, after which they get swapped out. Its been estimated at like, 5-6 years, but that really is a trashy estimate. Check your tire pressure :} if memory serves, so long as all tires are within 25% pressure difference of each other, that light should be off. You could take and post a pic of the valve stem and we could tell you if its just dead orrrr replaced with traditional stems (more likely than someone messing with the system, especially since they didn't deactivate the light.)
Think the next one was fuel stink. Totally. Not. Chill.
Most likely culprits are indeed vac line stuff annnnd spark plugs (#1). Bad vacuum lines arent honda's new style. They use some seriously premium rubber now (lookin' at you, american manufacturers), but vac should be considered after a plug inspection or asap if you suspect rodents could be a possibility.
Do check those plugs. We nag because of PTSD.
Uh.. from memory now. Suspension!!
Tie rods on the second gen are as beefy as it gets. They're head and shoulders above moog bone-stock (though if we were talking about sway bar end links, yeah those are meh)
I'd like to recommend jacking up the front end and shaking the wheels. Up down (ball joint) left right (tie rod) every direction (wheel bearing). Any play at ALL is too much. We can move forward after that and I can also upload some grease points (and grease types) IF you want!
Edit: while you're there, look for grease on the rubber bushings. Guessing you know that, but yeah. Caked brake dust is one thing, but grease goes on the to-do list.
Uhh. Fan/belt/pulley noise. The fans are electric so, if its the fan, you know, find a reasonably priced new fan. For the other stuff (hope youve got a healthy wrist): twist the serpentine belt to check the ribbed section for cracks. Between the ribs. You know, mush it around, if theres any cracks, replace. Prolly should replace anyways BUT I understand financial troubles.. can take the belt off too but hopefully not necessary and you can twist.
With the car all assembled, and in good lighting or with a bright flashlight (recommended to see all pulleys), turn it on all the way and then go watch the serpentine belt do its thing. It should be straight as an arrow. Any hint of wobbles means you probably found a noise source.
-intermission-
Should mention, would recommend checking oil, coolant, and tranny fluid levels as well as the air filter.
Tell whoever did your inspection that we hate them. My father's the kind of guy that dresses up beaters, runs leak stopping additives, "guaranteed to pass" fuel additives for smog/improving idle, cover up rod nock with heavier oil.. tried to tell em the devil's got a hot beer set for em. But yeah.. those "guys" are out there.
Sorry for preachin when you clearly have a grasp, just, you know..
In regards to the CEL, or even the general stuff if you've got the pockets, an inspection from honda can go a long way. If I was in your shoes, I would fork over the $120, when you're able..
"Do you have some lemon law for private party sales? Opportunity to put the car back to the seller?
In any case, have a trusted local mechanic do a real inspection and price out repairs. There is the possibility that you should cut your losses and sell the car for scrap. Don't throw good money after bad. The FIT should be a reliable economy car, not a money pit." Thats good honest advice. We'll work with yuh whatever your choice though.
final edit: thumbs up for all the people in this thread. Lots of good grey matter.
Last edited by Pyts; 07-12-2019 at 07:32 PM.
#9
07-12-2019, 08:12 PM
I have to agree....
That's a lot of issues.
And Inspection report or not....the check engine light being on...is IMO always an issue. That's kind of why it lights up in the first place. I mean, "Not an issue" is not an answer to that issue. Unless they can tell you, and prove to you why it illuminated, then fix the issue and turn it off? It's an issue.
Similarly the TPMS light...well you can reset that yourself. But before I would to that, I'd check the tires, both condition and PSI.
Loose suspension "sound".
Gasoline "smell".
Well, I'm not mechanic enough to speculate, nor is that description in depth enough for me to come to any conclusions. But again I don't want any problems with my suspension, and you shouldn't really be smelling gasoline coming from your engine bay.
The whole litany of other things you are describing are possibly VERY disturbing.
I hope they all turn out to be minor issues. But I really have no idea. And I also think an inspection report that is simply dismissing the check engine light, without any further explanation? Is BS.
If they inspect it and it IS nothing? Then why not turn it off....and not expect it to return. It doesn't illuminate on a whim.
Hope you have purchased a vehicle worth owning. Good Luck.
That's a lot of issues.
And Inspection report or not....the check engine light being on...is IMO always an issue. That's kind of why it lights up in the first place. I mean, "Not an issue" is not an answer to that issue. Unless they can tell you, and prove to you why it illuminated, then fix the issue and turn it off? It's an issue.
Similarly the TPMS light...well you can reset that yourself. But before I would to that, I'd check the tires, both condition and PSI.
Loose suspension "sound".
Gasoline "smell".
Well, I'm not mechanic enough to speculate, nor is that description in depth enough for me to come to any conclusions. But again I don't want any problems with my suspension, and you shouldn't really be smelling gasoline coming from your engine bay.
The whole litany of other things you are describing are possibly VERY disturbing.
I hope they all turn out to be minor issues. But I really have no idea. And I also think an inspection report that is simply dismissing the check engine light, without any further explanation? Is BS.
If they inspect it and it IS nothing? Then why not turn it off....and not expect it to return. It doesn't illuminate on a whim.
Hope you have purchased a vehicle worth owning. Good Luck.
Thank you for all that! I looked more at the engine bay today, trying to look for any gas leak. I couldn't notice any smell after driving it then shutting it off. Sniffed and looked around everywhere. Turned it on and idled - nothing. No dripping either. I could smell it slightly sometimes, but not in any specific spots. *Maybe* closer to the rear of the engine bay.
Thanks for turning me on to this, Fiting! Been weird times. Still injured, now moving cross country.. what a life
In regards to the above: I'd like to second all of it. (It didnt quote right.. but, the list)
For the TPMS
the sensors have lifespans, after which they get swapped out. Its been estimated at like, 5-6 years, but that really is a trashy estimate. Check your tire pressure :} if memory serves, so long as all tires are within 25% pressure difference of each other, that light should be off. You could take and post a pic of the valve stem and we could tell you if its just dead orrrr replaced with traditional stems (more likely than someone messing with the system, especially since they didn't deactivate the light.)
In regards to the above: I'd like to second all of it. (It didnt quote right.. but, the list)
For the TPMS
the sensors have lifespans, after which they get swapped out. Its been estimated at like, 5-6 years, but that really is a trashy estimate. Check your tire pressure :} if memory serves, so long as all tires are within 25% pressure difference of each other, that light should be off. You could take and post a pic of the valve stem and we could tell you if its just dead orrrr replaced with traditional stems (more likely than someone messing with the system, especially since they didn't deactivate the light.)
Think the next one was fuel stink. Totally. Not. Chill.
Most likely culprits are indeed vac line stuff annnnd spark plugs (#1). Bad vacuum lines arent honda's new style. They use some seriously premium rubber now (lookin' at you, american manufacturers), but vac should be considered after a plug inspection or asap if you suspect rodents could be a possibility.
Do check those plugs. We nag because of PTSD.
Most likely culprits are indeed vac line stuff annnnd spark plugs (#1). Bad vacuum lines arent honda's new style. They use some seriously premium rubber now (lookin' at you, american manufacturers), but vac should be considered after a plug inspection or asap if you suspect rodents could be a possibility.
Do check those plugs. We nag because of PTSD.
With the spark plugs - could you give me some indicators to look for? I've seen fried and old plugs, and new plugs. I've changed plugs twice in my life. Do I need to check torque specifically, or just for tightness? I don't own a torque wrench.
Uh.. from memory now. Suspension!!
Tie rods on the second gen are as beefy as it gets. They're head and shoulders above moog bone-stock (though if we were talking about sway bar end links, yeah those are meh)
I'd like to recommend jacking up the front end and shaking the wheels. Up down (ball joint) left right (tie rod) every direction (wheel bearing). Any play at ALL is too much. We can move forward after that and I can also upload some grease points (and grease types) IF you want!
Edit: while you're there, look for grease on the rubber bushings. Guessing you know that, but yeah. Caked brake dust is one thing, but grease goes on the to-do list.
Tie rods on the second gen are as beefy as it gets. They're head and shoulders above moog bone-stock (though if we were talking about sway bar end links, yeah those are meh)
I'd like to recommend jacking up the front end and shaking the wheels. Up down (ball joint) left right (tie rod) every direction (wheel bearing). Any play at ALL is too much. We can move forward after that and I can also upload some grease points (and grease types) IF you want!
Edit: while you're there, look for grease on the rubber bushings. Guessing you know that, but yeah. Caked brake dust is one thing, but grease goes on the to-do list.
Okay. I'll have to head to my friends place. Since moving into an apartment four years ago, I haven't had larger tools like a jack.
Uhh. Fan/belt/pulley noise. The fans are electric so, if its the fan, you know, find a reasonably priced new fan. For the other stuff (hope youve got a healthy wrist): twist the serpentine belt to check the ribbed section for cracks. Between the ribs. You know, mush it around, if theres any cracks, replace. Prolly should replace anyways BUT I understand financial troubles.. can take the belt off too but hopefully not necessary and you can twist.
With the car all assembled, and in good lighting or with a bright flashlight (recommended to see all pulleys), turn it on all the way and then go watch the serpentine belt do its thing. It should be straight as an arrow. Any hint of wobbles means you probably found a noise source.
-intermission-
Should mention, would recommend checking oil, coolant, and tranny fluid levels as well as the air filter.
Tell whoever did your inspection that we hate them. My father's the kind of guy that dresses up beaters, runs leak stopping additives, "guaranteed to pass" fuel additives for smog/improving idle, cover up rod nock with heavier oil.. tried to tell em the devil's got a hot beer set for em. But yeah.. those "guys" are out there.
Sorry for preachin when you clearly have a grasp, just, you know..
In regards to the CEL, or even the general stuff if you've got the pockets, an inspection from honda can go a long way. If I was in your shoes, I would fork over the $120, when you're able..
With the car all assembled, and in good lighting or with a bright flashlight (recommended to see all pulleys), turn it on all the way and then go watch the serpentine belt do its thing. It should be straight as an arrow. Any hint of wobbles means you probably found a noise source.
-intermission-
Should mention, would recommend checking oil, coolant, and tranny fluid levels as well as the air filter.
Tell whoever did your inspection that we hate them. My father's the kind of guy that dresses up beaters, runs leak stopping additives, "guaranteed to pass" fuel additives for smog/improving idle, cover up rod nock with heavier oil.. tried to tell em the devil's got a hot beer set for em. But yeah.. those "guys" are out there.
Sorry for preachin when you clearly have a grasp, just, you know..
In regards to the CEL, or even the general stuff if you've got the pockets, an inspection from honda can go a long way. If I was in your shoes, I would fork over the $120, when you're able..
"Do you have some lemon law for private party sales? Opportunity to put the car back to the seller?
In any case, have a trusted local mechanic do a real inspection and price out repairs. There is the possibility that you should cut your losses and sell the car for scrap. Don't throw good money after bad. The FIT should be a reliable economy car, not a money pit." Thats good honest advice. We'll work with yuh whatever your choice though.
final edit: thumbs up for all the people in this thread. Lots of good grey matter.
Definitely hope there's no scrapping! Hah. The car runs and drives really well. I'm hoping y'all are over-speculating as I do myself (hope that's not offensive). We do have a well-rated locally-owned shop nearby, but since we're in an area where we haven't owned a vehicle, we don't know of anything personally.
In the past, I've done all of the work and maintenance, using repair guides and forums to help me through, but this living situation definitely makes it more difficult to do that.
Thank you everyone! I'll update once I've had a look at some of these things that I can.
edit:
FWIW we're getting 26 mpg in mostly city driving on the first half of our first tank.
Just realized I'll have to take off half the frontend just to look at the plugs.
The multi-point inspection performed by that Honda dealership checked quite a few things, though I'm unsure as to how in-depth. (See image in spoiler.)
Last edited by uRabbit; 07-12-2019 at 08:35 PM.
#10
07-14-2019, 03:01 PM
Okay. Got the code checked today. P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire. Heading out to the car now to check the coils and plugs. To test the coils, I'm going to idle the engine and remove them one-by-one to see if the idle changes at all. I don't have a compression gauge (anymore) unfortunately, so I won't be able to do that.
#11
07-14-2019, 04:05 PM
Okay. Got the code checked today. P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire. Heading out to the car now to check the coils and plugs. To test the coils, I'm going to idle the engine and remove them one-by-one to see if the idle changes at all. I don't have a compression gauge (anymore) unfortunately, so I won't be able to do that.
The fact you smell gas might mean you're getting blow by around the spark plug and coil pack. I had a spark plug issue that eventually led to blow by as the threads holding the spark plug got more and more damaged. The fix for my problem was doing a "re-thread" (cut the hole bigger and use a threaded insert)
#12
07-14-2019, 04:58 PM
Definitely the coil and/or plug at cylinder 2. Caked in dried gas.
I’m having trouble though. My spark plug socket won’t grab any of the plugs. It’s long enough and all but it looks like the rubber in the socket is gone.
I’m having trouble though. My spark plug socket won’t grab any of the plugs. It’s long enough and all but it looks like the rubber in the socket is gone.
#13
07-14-2019, 05:24 PM
Are you able to loosen the plug, but not able to pull it out of the cylinder? If so, grab something magnetic and you should be able to fish it out. If the magnet is strong enough, you can put it near the base of a rod/screwdriver that can be magnetized, and stick it in there.
As for putting it back in... you could try stuff a wad of paper towel in the socket to hold the plug. Make sure the paper is only tight enough to prevent the plug from falling out. But not so tight that it comes out WITH the plug. Like force a portion of the paper deeper into the socket where it can be stuffed tight and isn't interfering with the plug.
Might be worthwhile to hop over to an auto store to buy a replacement gasket for the socket... or a new socket.
As for putting it back in... you could try stuff a wad of paper towel in the socket to hold the plug. Make sure the paper is only tight enough to prevent the plug from falling out. But not so tight that it comes out WITH the plug. Like force a portion of the paper deeper into the socket where it can be stuffed tight and isn't interfering with the plug.
Might be worthwhile to hop over to an auto store to buy a replacement gasket for the socket... or a new socket.
Last edited by Goobers; 07-14-2019 at 05:27 PM.
#14
07-14-2019, 05:49 PM
I was going to bet on the spark plugs before reading this whole thread....with the CEL and fuel smell.
the fact Fits have this problem is super annoying.
ill preach the same thing over n over...dont simply tighten your problematic plugs that have already began to back out....replace them, torque them 18-20 ftlbs...and if you need to check them...only turn in the tighten direction. if you need to back the plug out for whatever reason replace it with a new one. i had an almost loose one a year ago. replaced it,"over" torqued it a bit, and it has been fine for a year now. Honda upped the torque on our plugs from something like 13 to 18 ftlbs...dont quote me....but i went a couple more to 20. of course if you strip the hell out of your head its not my fault either. i read on another honda site where someone tested how much torque it took to strip out a head on a s2000 and it was pretty high like 40-50ftlbs. again dont quote me but just giving you some quick ballpark info for quick reference. if the plugs have never had an issue...i think the 13ftlbs is fine...but once they have even hinted at backing out i think we need to look at higher torques. and of course the location of the plugs is a pita.
100% use a torque wrench on your plugs. even if its at least a harbor freight one. "eyeball" it, or go by "feel" and you will pay dearly.
good luck...keep us posted.
the fact Fits have this problem is super annoying.
ill preach the same thing over n over...dont simply tighten your problematic plugs that have already began to back out....replace them, torque them 18-20 ftlbs...and if you need to check them...only turn in the tighten direction. if you need to back the plug out for whatever reason replace it with a new one. i had an almost loose one a year ago. replaced it,"over" torqued it a bit, and it has been fine for a year now. Honda upped the torque on our plugs from something like 13 to 18 ftlbs...dont quote me....but i went a couple more to 20. of course if you strip the hell out of your head its not my fault either. i read on another honda site where someone tested how much torque it took to strip out a head on a s2000 and it was pretty high like 40-50ftlbs. again dont quote me but just giving you some quick ballpark info for quick reference. if the plugs have never had an issue...i think the 13ftlbs is fine...but once they have even hinted at backing out i think we need to look at higher torques. and of course the location of the plugs is a pita.
100% use a torque wrench on your plugs. even if its at least a harbor freight one. "eyeball" it, or go by "feel" and you will pay dearly.
good luck...keep us posted.
#15
07-14-2019, 05:56 PM
Thanks, eulogy. I'll grab a torque wrench along with plugs and new plug socket. Should I consider getting all new coils as well? I'm not super knowledgeable with ignition systems (or anything, really haha).
And, which plugs come gapped? edit: Looks like these ones.
And, which plugs come gapped? edit: Looks like these ones.
Last edited by uRabbit; 07-14-2019 at 05:58 PM.
#16
07-14-2019, 06:23 PM
im running the denso ik22...for a supposed slight performance increase.
keep the plugs denso or ngk...i usually just run factory pre gap.
id say replace plugs n see how it runs...unless coils are melted or something. replace w hitachi.( i believe part number igc0073 -DOUBLE CHECK!) ...$35 each on amazon if u want to save money and have time to wait.
some people are trying threadlock and antiseize on plugs w success. id only try those as last resort if slightly higher torques dont hold.
keep the plugs denso or ngk...i usually just run factory pre gap.
id say replace plugs n see how it runs...unless coils are melted or something. replace w hitachi.( i believe part number igc0073 -DOUBLE CHECK!) ...$35 each on amazon if u want to save money and have time to wait.
some people are trying threadlock and antiseize on plugs w success. id only try those as last resort if slightly higher torques dont hold.
#17
07-14-2019, 06:43 PM
Thanks! Great heads-up on the coils. Amazon says those Hitachi coils fit, and looks like some other sites say so as well.
Using Amazon because the nearest AutoZone is 2 miles uphill, nearest O'Reilly is 3 miles uphill, and nearest NAPA is 4 miles via interstate. Would rather not drive till this is fixed, and I don't need to use it until Wednesday.
edit: I ordered the NGK plugs. I'll be replacing all four. Wondering now if I should wait for the Maintenance Minder to perform other maintenance items or just do them soon.
Using Amazon because the nearest AutoZone is 2 miles uphill, nearest O'Reilly is 3 miles uphill, and nearest NAPA is 4 miles via interstate. Would rather not drive till this is fixed, and I don't need to use it until Wednesday.
edit: I ordered the NGK plugs. I'll be replacing all four. Wondering now if I should wait for the Maintenance Minder to perform other maintenance items or just do them soon.
Last edited by uRabbit; 07-14-2019 at 06:48 PM.
#18
07-14-2019, 07:07 PM
if u have the wrenches out and money/ time...might as well do all the fluids for piece of mind...and to have official starting point for your records. i did all mine last year when i got my car even though the honda dealership i got my car from had log of them doing them (except brake fluid).
i recommend using Honda transmission and coolant fluids...though i am trying out pep boys blue which is concentrated and half the price since i planned on doing premature changes to flush the system. several other honda forum site users seem to cosign the quality of the pepboys stuff. idk. engine n brake fluid prob bit more user optional.
-coolant
-transmission
-engine oil n filter
-brake fluid
i recommend using Honda transmission and coolant fluids...though i am trying out pep boys blue which is concentrated and half the price since i planned on doing premature changes to flush the system. several other honda forum site users seem to cosign the quality of the pepboys stuff. idk. engine n brake fluid prob bit more user optional.
-coolant
-transmission
-engine oil n filter
-brake fluid
#19
07-14-2019, 07:49 PM
if u have the wrenches out and money/ time...might as well do all the fluids for piece of mind...and to have official starting point for your records. i did all mine last year when i got my car even though the honda dealership i got my car from had log of them doing them (except brake fluid).
i recommend using Honda transmission and coolant fluids...though i am trying out pep boys blue which is concentrated and half the price since i planned on doing premature changes to flush the system. several other honda forum site users seem to cosign the quality of the pepboys stuff. idk. engine n brake fluid prob bit more user optional.
-coolant
-transmission
-engine oil n filter
-brake fluid
i recommend using Honda transmission and coolant fluids...though i am trying out pep boys blue which is concentrated and half the price since i planned on doing premature changes to flush the system. several other honda forum site users seem to cosign the quality of the pepboys stuff. idk. engine n brake fluid prob bit more user optional.
-coolant
-transmission
-engine oil n filter
-brake fluid
#20
07-14-2019, 09:11 PM
For now assume code is from loose spark plug. Don't replace any coils unless you have reason to (code and/or poor performance after spark plug work). Ideally, coils should not looked burned, melted, discolored, damaged but YMMV. If you need to replace a coil, I would go OEM as these are critical parts in very hostile environments wr to temps and voltage.
For revised Honda torque specs for plugs, there are a few recent posts here with photographs of the Honda specs and a few people who spoke directly with Honda dealer service regarding the torque and use of a bit of antisieze. That was enough "proof" for me. There are plenty of studies on typical spark plug torque ranges for aluminum heads and I think the new Honda spec is near the top of the range so you really need to take care of overtightening.
Also, I did not use LockTite or similar for a few reasons. First, it is not recommended by Honda. Second, reading the LockTite technical sheet, I thought it would fail at high temperatures.
Important. I cleaned the spark plug threads in the head and used a very small amount of anti-seize. Those both reduce friction and effectively increase torque. So "clamping force" will vary significantly (due to increased friction) if you do not clean the threads and/or do not use a very small amount of antisieze, maybe 25% or more.
For revised Honda torque specs for plugs, there are a few recent posts here with photographs of the Honda specs and a few people who spoke directly with Honda dealer service regarding the torque and use of a bit of antisieze. That was enough "proof" for me. There are plenty of studies on typical spark plug torque ranges for aluminum heads and I think the new Honda spec is near the top of the range so you really need to take care of overtightening.
Also, I did not use LockTite or similar for a few reasons. First, it is not recommended by Honda. Second, reading the LockTite technical sheet, I thought it would fail at high temperatures.
Important. I cleaned the spark plug threads in the head and used a very small amount of anti-seize. Those both reduce friction and effectively increase torque. So "clamping force" will vary significantly (due to increased friction) if you do not clean the threads and/or do not use a very small amount of antisieze, maybe 25% or more.