Swapped out a stripped bleeder valve for a new valve on my rear brake drum. I could't tell if it was tightened all the way and sheared the nipple right off. I checked and made sure the brake fluid wasn't leaking and it looks like there's currently a good seal. Is the car safe to drive any distance right now or is the line now full of air? I drove around slowly to test it, it seemed a little mushy but braking seemed reponsive. Is my best (least hassle) option to replace the wheel cylinder? If so can I do it with the rest of the bleeder valve stuck in there? Any tips or tricks and videos out there? Thanks!

 

It is fairly common for an amateur mechanic to over tighten and break them. If they have not been opened in years or the rubber covers have been discarded, water usually gets inside and promotes rusting in place. The bleeder is a hollow tube and valve with the seal surface near the inside far end. By breaking off the outside end you did not disturb the valve end which is deeper inside. So it is still is still closed and the vehicle is fully operation and usable until the next time that you want to bleed the brakes.

Replacement bleeders are available at your favorite auto parts store, cheap. The old ones are usually removable on the vehicle. The procedure is slightly different depending on whether you broke it loosening or tightening it. If you broke it tightening it, then a screw extractor / easy out should do the trick. If you broke it removing it, then it probably is rusted in place. In this case remove rubber cap. ( It probably is already gone when you broke it). Squirt a good penetrating oil in the hole (Kroil or PB Blaster) using the straw attachment on the can and let soak. WD-40 is a waste of time. Do this once a day for 5 days. Then go after the problem with a screw extractor / easy out. A little heat with a propane torch usually helps. In the future only use a 6 point socket or 6 point box end when trying to loosen a bleeder and only tighten them enough to get the valve to quit leaking. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Put a little white thread tape or better yet anti-seize on the threads prior to installing. Do not to forget to put the rubber cap on the end when you are finished.

The car is still drivable the way it is as long as there is no air in the system. So do not be in too much of a hurry to repair this. Let the oil soak in for the required 5 days.

Good luck

 

So I removed the old bleeder completely, let the brake fluid in the line drain out naturally without pedal bleeding, then put on a new bleeder and overtightened. Wouldn't that leave air in the line? I'm trying to be cautious because the closest auto parts store is a 40 mile round trip.