For this easy job, you need an air compressor, and this tool:
One-Person Brake Bleeder - Specialty Tools - Tools - Griot's Garage

Things to have on hand-
At least 1 pint (1/2 liter) fresh brake fluid. I used and suggest the ATE brand Super Blue DOT 4 fluid because its blue color makes it easy to see when the tan colored old brake fluid is gone and the new fluid is now being vacuumed into the collection bottle. $18.00 per liter on eBay with free shipping.

Specialty brake system box wrenches- 5/16" size for the rear bleeder valves, and 10mm for the front bleeder valves. For at least the rear valves, a box wrench that is very thin, made from stamped sheet metal, works well to allow the vacuum coupling of the bleeder system to attach firmly to the valve and still be turn-able with the wrench. The front bleeder valves are much wider and a thick 10mm box wrench works fine.

1. Use chocks on the front wheels, then jack up the rear and place jack stands under the spring seats at the bottom of the rear axle. Release the jack so that the rear of the car rests on the jack stands.

2. Use the bleeder system vacuum pump to drain the fluid from the brake reservoir under the hood (or use a "turkey baster" to suck out the fluid). Refill the reservoir with fresh new brake fluid, and REPLACE THE CAP. Start with the wheel farthest from the brake system reservoir (the right rear wheel). Put the box wrench on the hex shoulders of the bleeder valve, attach your compressor air hose to the bleeder system, and attach the "mushroom-shaped" black rubber vacuum coupling of the bleeder system to the bleeder valve. Use the wrench to crack open the bleeder valve, close the valve again, and press the actuator lever of the bleeder system to start the vacuum. With the lever depressed, open the bleeder valve about 1/2 turn. You can watch the flow of brake fluid as it is vacuumed from the bleeder valve, through the clear bleeder system tubing, and into the 1 liter collection bottle. When you see blue fluid bubbling through the collection hose, immediately turn the wrench to close the bleeder valve and you are done with that wheel.

I strongly suggest that you remove the right rear wheel for this process. Your access to the right rear brake bleeder is compromised by the exhaust system. With the wheel off, there is plenty of room to reach everything.

3. Next, go to the left rear wheel. No need to remove the wheel. Attach the 5/16" box wrench and the "mushroom coupling", press the lever to start the vacuum, and open the bleeder valve 1/2 turn. Watch the flow of brake fluid into the collection tubing, and when it turns blue, close the bleeder valve. You are now done with that wheel.

Now be sure to replace the black rubber dust seal caps on both bleeder valves before going to the front brakes. Put the right rear wheel back on, lower the car to the ground, and torque the right rear lug nuts.

4. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and add more if necessary. NEVER let the reservoir run completely out of new brake fluid. If the reservoir runs dry, air will be sucked into the brake system, and you will have to completely do this job all over again just to get the air out of the system............

Now go to the front of the car. Loosen all lug nuts, and using your stock jack (or preferably a hydraulic floor jack), raise the right front wheel off the ground. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Check the thickness of the brake pads. If they look OK, proceed with the fluid exchange. Place a 10mm box wrench on the bleeder valve, attach the "mushroom coupling" to the bleeder valve, start the vacuum with the lever on the bleeder system, open the bleeder valve 1/2 turn, and watch the fluid flow until it turns blue (or clear if you are not using ATE Super Blue fluid). When you see fresh fluid flowing, shut off the bleeder valve, and you are done with this wheel. Repeat the process with the left front wheel, replace wheels and properly torque the lugs nuts, and the job is done. Remember to replace the rubber dust caps on both of the front brake bleeder valves.

Check fluid level in the reservoir, and add to the "Full" mark.

Discard the old brake fluid as if it is used motor oil in an environmentally safe method. Brake fluid is actually made of ethylene glycol, just as radiator coolant fluid is, but dispose of it as if it is motor oil.

I changed the brake system fluid in two cars ('09 Fit Sport and '05 Scion XB) the same day using one 1-liter can of ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid. The $40.00 cost of this bleeder system saved me at least $200.00 labor based on repair shop quotes for the two cars. I will do this all over again in two years with the same two cars, using ATE DOT 4 Orange colored brake fluid, simply to be sure the old fluid is gone and has been replaced with the new fluid.

The only (slightly) down-side is that the tinted fluid makes it harder to tell when it is dirty, so I will just go by elapsed time rather than appearance. Two years between complete fluid changes.

The above instructions are based on a GE8 Fit. I assume that the wrench sizes for GD3 Fits are the same, and all instructions would be exactly the same for the GD3's. This system would work well on any car, not just Hondas. Keep in mind that some vehicles are equipped with a brake pressure-compensating valve that is attached to the frame and is controlled by a rod that is connected to the rear axle. When the car is stopping, weight is transferred from back to front. The rod transmits these changes to the compensating valve. For these cars, the rear suspension must be compressed by the rear axle resting on jack stands. There is no mention of this valve in the Fit GE8 Shop Manual, but just to be certain, I rested my Fit on jack stands under the axle.

There are other, cheaper, "one-man bleeder" systems available. MityVac has one that uses a lever-operated hand vacuum pump to scavenge the old fluid from the bleeder valves into the collection bottle. Those cost maybe $20.00 less. To me, it is well worth the added $20.00 to just press a lever and let the system do the work. But, of course, you also need the compressor. Most home-owners have the compressor, but most Fitfreak members are not home owners, and don't have the compressor. So, have fun hand-pumping.

One other thing--------

DOT 4 brake fluid is somewhat superior to standard DOT 3 fluid that your car is supplied with when new, simply because DOT 4 fluid has a higher boiling temperature. For track guys you can cook the brakes a little longer before fading sets in. Unfortunately, DOT 3 & 4 fluids absorb water from the air at the same rate. Honda suggests a complete brake fluid change every 3 years because of the water accumulation which eventually corrodes brake system components and causes brake fade very quickly because of its lower boiling point than brake fluid.

DOT 5 brake fluid does not absorb water at all and has an even higher boiling point, but we can't use it. It is pure silicon oil, and it CANNOT be used in anti-lock brake systems. Anti-lock brakes have a sensor that spins at high speeds and that sensor whips the silicon oil into a froth and that prevents proper brake function. Like trying to stop your car with a brake system full of ginger ale.

For a really good explanation of brake fluid chemistry, look here:

http://importnut.net/brakefluid.htm

 

Nice. I need to change my fluid this summer too.
I've been using the colored ATE system for a couple years now too - alternating between Blue and Gold. Like you said, makes it easy-peasy to see when the NEW fluid has reached the valve!

I've normally installed speed-bleeders on my cars, but with the two current cars in the garage, neither have them yet. I'm giving this suction-bleeder a spin. If it works as well as it seems, then it looks to be an excellent alternative to the speed-bleeders, which STILL require you to get in the car and depress the break pedal....and then you have to periodically go see if the new colored fluid has started coming out yet.

 

That is exactly the reason that I did not buy the speed bleeder valves. You will like this system because it is so simple. It does take a couple of minutes to extract the fluid from the longest brake lines. That is because the system does not create a strong vacuum (therefor cannot suck out the fluid fast enough to cause any problems). The compressor air pressure flowing through the bleed system's valve creates a gentle vacuum from the siphon action inside the bleeder system's valve.

 

that's cool. i have the taller canister pump i bought long time ago from griots. works great.