Brake bleed sequence
#1
Brake bleed sequence
I'm going to flush the OEM brake fluid and replace it with high-temp fluid for autocross and track days. Does anyone know the correct order for bleeding each corner on a Fit? Is it the same as other Hondas (LF, RF, LR, RR)?
#2
Suggestion-
A foolproof way to completely change out the brake fluid by yourself is to use a vacuum brake bleed kit from Car Care, Detail Supplies, Garage Organization, Car Accessories - Griot's Garage 800-345-5789. Just use the bleeder valve on one wheel- ALL of the old fluid gets sucked out, while the new fluid gets sucked into the master cylinder. It takes 5 minutes.
A foolproof way to completely change out the brake fluid by yourself is to use a vacuum brake bleed kit from Car Care, Detail Supplies, Garage Organization, Car Accessories - Griot's Garage 800-345-5789. Just use the bleeder valve on one wheel- ALL of the old fluid gets sucked out, while the new fluid gets sucked into the master cylinder. It takes 5 minutes.
#5
With a vacuum system, it does not matter which wheel bleed valve you use. JUST USE ONE- the whole system drains through that, and as the fluid is vacuumed out, the new fluid is suctioned in from the master cylinder.
#6
this is not correct, you must still bleed at each wheel, no matter if you are using a pressure system or a vacuum system.
#7
i'd prefer the old fashion way, i never understood/liked those pumps/vaccuums. Anyways, always start from the farthest from the Master Cylinder. Go Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. That's the order i've been doing for years and it's never failed me.
#9
There must be some air trapped in the lines. If you had someone help you they might have let go the brakes and air was trapped in the lines.
I have read quite a few reviews on how to bleed brakes safely. Some use the vaccum system which works, but you have to be careful or else you can put too much pressure on your master cylinder and break the seal. Some vaccum systems have a presure gauge so you won't over do it. Even the old fashion way is not full proof. When people do the two person method the person that is pressing downn the brake should not go all the way other wise this will also break the seal on the master cylinder.
I have read quite a few reviews on how to bleed brakes safely. Some use the vaccum system which works, but you have to be careful or else you can put too much pressure on your master cylinder and break the seal. Some vaccum systems have a presure gauge so you won't over do it. Even the old fashion way is not full proof. When people do the two person method the person that is pressing downn the brake should not go all the way other wise this will also break the seal on the master cylinder.
#11
Thanks. I will try the old sequence.
I did not not know about the possibility of breaking the master cylinder seal if the pedal is pushed too far. My wife was my pumper. Thanks.
How would I know if the master cylinder seal is damaged?
I did not not know about the possibility of breaking the master cylinder seal if the pedal is pushed too far. My wife was my pumper. Thanks.
How would I know if the master cylinder seal is damaged?
#13
Just to correct all the above posts since they all list incorrect bleed sequences for our car. Coming from the 2007 Honda Fit service manual, the correct bleed sequence is FL, FR, RR, RL. So it is a clockwise pattern starting with the front left wheel. Hope this helps people out.
#15
I've been using the Quickbleed the one man bleeder for the past year, but the other day ,I replaced a master cylinder on a 2001 Civic, I used the standard bleeding sequence, but could not get brake fluid to the rear wheel cylinders. First, I though the bleeder was faulty, I thought the MS was faulty,
It turn out to be the proportioning valve.
It turn out to be the proportioning valve.
#16
I am surprised noone mentioned the gavity bleeding, the best way to replace all your fluid.
Just open the bleeder valve and let the old fluid leak out making sure your reservoir stays above the min mark.
All four wheel can be bled this way. It does take time, but you do not have to worry about the being trapped there. Just don't touch the bake pedal at all. Oh and you don't need the partner to do this job.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/grav...kes-81243.html
Just open the bleeder valve and let the old fluid leak out making sure your reservoir stays above the min mark.
All four wheel can be bled this way. It does take time, but you do not have to worry about the being trapped there. Just don't touch the bake pedal at all. Oh and you don't need the partner to do this job.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/grav...kes-81243.html
#17
I've blead alot of cars that way, but time is money. I bought one of those bleeders I see in your post, it's ok, but Quickbleed is the best I've used thus far. I can bleed any system in 5 minute. The twenty dollars I spent a year ago was well worth it.
#18
Didn't know this was a special bleeder. How does it work? Does it work like a valve and only allows the pressure to exit the brake line? I thought it was just a container to collect the fluid that leaks out on its own.
#20
I have heard this works well. Quick question from your pic, do you have the collection bottle above the caliper? Do you get any air in this way?