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Brake bleed sequence

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Old Apr 28, 2023 | 04:59 PM
  #41  
USDM's Avatar
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Originally Posted by nomenclator
Chiltons claims that the bleeding sequence should be (I am assuming this is for a left-hand drive car) Front Left, Front Right, Rear Right, Rear Left. My translation into more concise language: at the wheel nearest the master cylinder, then looking down at the car from above, go from wheel to wheel in a clockwise fashion. Why? I don't know. Anyone know what Honda's official on-line service literature says?
FL, FR, RR, RL is the correct sequence.
 
Old May 13, 2023 | 09:57 PM
  #42  
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From: Asheville NC
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Originally Posted by USDM
FL, FR, RR, RL is the correct sequence.
Thanks USDM. However my car has left-hand drive, with brake master cyl on the left. I'm wondering if I should point that out again, and indicate that it is conceivable that the sequence for third gen right-hand drive Fit or Jazz might be different.
 
Old Jun 3, 2023 | 12:53 AM
  #43  
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From: FL
Originally Posted by Alco RS-1
I tried to replace my brake fluid using a one-person bleeder that applies a vacuum to draw the old fluid out at each wheel. I found that air leaks by the threads on the loosened nut. Air is then entrained in the used fluid as it makes its exit and it takes an eternity to drain each line.

Does anyone know how to minimize or eliminate this problem? I'd rather not use Teflon tape.

I ended up going the old fashioned route and summoning my wife to repeatedly press and release the brake pedal, which worked great.
Sometimes if you open the bleeder too far and use vacuum to pull the old brake fluid out you can also end up pulling air past the bleeder threads. Sometimes it happens no matter how little you open it. The solution is to either open the bleeder just barely enough to get brake fluid flowing and/or put some grease to seal air OR use a hose clamp or tie-wrap around the nipple to gently apply pressure and create a better seal. Use a closed wrench or ring spanner to open the bleed valve to avoid stripping. Hold the hose angled upwards so that those little bubbles sitting right by the nipple don't get sucked back into the brakes before you're done.
 
Old Jun 12, 2023 | 12:50 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Mr.GK5
Sometimes if you open the bleeder too far and use vacuum to pull the old brake fluid out you can also end up pulling air past the bleeder threads. Sometimes it happens no matter how little you open it. The solution is to either open the bleeder just barely enough to get brake fluid flowing and/or put some grease to seal air OR use a hose clamp or tie-wrap around the nipple to gently apply pressure and create a better seal. Use a closed wrench or ring spanner to open the bleed valve to avoid stripping. Hold the hose angled upwards so that those little bubbles sitting right by the nipple don't get sucked back into the brakes before you're done.
I had that problem with the bleeder valve turned 1/4 turn, although I don't know whether the vacuum was pulling air past the bleeder threads. or was sucking air into the tube, through the space between the tube and the nipple I tried putting a wire-tie around the tube where it goes around the nipple but I was still seeing bubbles in the tube. I didn't try grease – I worry about grease being drawn into the system. I don't know what you mean by a closed wrench or a ring spanner. I simply use an ordinary box-end wrench, either 6 point or 12 point. Or an open-end wrench once I've cracked the valve open using the box wrench. I have a set of those wrenches that can get around the nipple after the hose is already on it. It is like a 6-point box wrench but it is open a bit on one side that you can place it over the nipple without removing hose first. I forget what this kind of wrench is called. But none of those wrenches in my set of those wrenches are small enough so I just use an open end or I use a box wrench and put the hose on the nipple after placing the box wrench around the nipple's hex area.

So – I have a piece of hose with a check-valve (a one-way valve). That could save me the job of opening the nipple, having someone push the brake pedal down, then closing the nipple after the pedal is all the way down, then having them lift their foot off of the pedal, then opening the nipple again, ad infinitum. Instead they could just push the pedal down, and up, without my needing turn the nipple to closed as they let the pedal up – because the check valve won't allow fluid to flow back into the nipple. However I would still need a helper because I would would not be able to see if bubbles were in the hose and unless it was a really long hose that was attached to the check valve, a hose that I could route from the wheel I was bleeding. say the right rear, all the way to where I can see it from the driver's seat, at the left front. But somehow I don't think such a long hose is a good idea. Not sure I can articulate why.
 

Last edited by nomenclator; Jun 12, 2023 at 02:44 PM.
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