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2nd Generation GE8 Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-ForumThreads discussing repairs and maintenance you can do yourself on the 2nd generation Honda Fit (GE8)
While installing new NGK spark plugs into my 2013 Fit, I snapped off the top of one of the spark plugs while using a torque wrench to tighten to 13 foot/lbs. No idea how or why it happened. I swear on my mother's life I didn't hulk out. And now I'm in full panic mode.
Does anyone have any experience removing a broken spark plug bolt? Any recommended tools or techniques?
Thanks in advance. The top of the broken plug. Looking down at the remaining part of the broken plug.
I was able to get the broken plug and wanted to share what worked for me. I was able to get it out using:
- Compressed air and a shop vac to remove any bits of porcelain and metal shavings. I vacuumed and blasted air often to make sure nothing was left in the threads or cylinder. The vacuum was able to remove all of the porcelain allowing for metal to metal contact between the extractor and the broken spark plug.
- Bit of penetrating oil because, why not?
- #36964: Screw Extractor D5/16″ S1/2″-9/16″
- 9/16 8-point socket (must be an 8-point to get a solid grip on the extractor)
- 6 inch 3/8 extension (preferably not a wobble style)
- Bit of duct tape to secure the extractor to the socket - just in case
- Standard 3/8 ratchet
- Small ball peen hammer, used sideways to seat the extractor and the to tap while turning the ratchet
- Inspection camera that helps inspect what you're dealing with and confirming no debris is left behind (a cell phone can also be used, but for $40 the inspection camera is a worthwhile investment)
- Go slow and make sure the extractor is always centered and seated.
- Position yourself on the side of the Fit, above the passenger tire for the best view and hand position to ensure even pressure and that the ratchet and extension remain centered and at a 90 degree angle relative to the spark plug
- Tap the top of the ratchet with the hammer as you turn. A second set of hands could help here, but it can be done solo.
- If you feel anything slip, back off, check that all components have solid connections, reseat and try again.
- Note in the photo that the extractor went all the way into the plug and stopped just at the side electrode. This is the desired and necessary depth to give the extractor the best ability to bite into the metal. But don't go any further, unless you know the position of the cylinder below and have the necessary clearance.
view of the extractor seated in the broken plug after removal.
I was able to get the broken plug and wanted to share what worked for me. I was able to get it out using:
- Compressed air and a shop vac to remove any bits of porcelain and metal shavings. I vacuumed and blasted air often to make sure nothing was left in the threads or cylinder. The vacuum was able to remove all of the porcelain allowing for metal to metal contact between the extractor and the broken spark plug.
- Bit of penetrating oil because, why not?
- #36964: Screw Extractor D5/16″ S1/2″-9/16″
- 9/16 8-point socket (must be an 8-point to get a solid grip on the extractor)
- 6 inch 3/8 extension (preferably not a wobble style)
- Bit of duct tape to secure the extractor to the socket - just in case
- Standard 3/8 ratchet
- Small ball peen hammer, used sideways to seat the extractor and the to tap while turning the ratchet
- Inspection camera that helps inspect what you're dealing with and confirming no debris is left behind (a cell phone can also be used, but for $40 the inspection camera is a worthwhile investment)
- Go slow and make sure the extractor is always centered and seated.
- Position yourself on the side of the Fit, above the passenger tire for the best view and hand position to ensure even pressure and that the ratchet and extension remain centered and at a 90 degree angle relative to the spark plug
- Tap the top of the ratchet with the hammer as you turn. A second set of hands could help here, but it can be done solo.
- If you feel anything slip, back off, check that all components have solid connections, reseat and try again.
- Note in the photo that the extractor went all the way into the plug and stopped just at the side electrode. This is the desired and necessary depth to give the extractor the best ability to bite into the metal. But don't go any further, unless you know the position of the cylinder below and have the necessary clearance.
view of the extractor seated in the broken plug after removal.
