GJ mark. how many miles do you have on your '12? mine's only got like 13K. hahaha.
on my other cars i use a hand pump that screws directly onto the MT fluid bottle. it's a great tool
and can be had for like $5-7 on amazon. my car is slow that even on ramps i had to use the
cavity between the exhaust midpipe and heat sheild to pump the thing. lol

 

I'm at 47k now. This was my first tranny fluid change. It seems to downshift a little smoother now.

 

oh i see, dang you got a lot of miles for a '12!!

 

Just finished tranny fluid change....... I saw first post and went with that info. Should have known that Honda using an 18mm bolt is rare, if ever. Good thing the filler bolt was on very loosely. It's a 17mm bolt. 18mm wrench will work, but will damage the bolt head.

As for removing the filler bolt first. Not a good idea. I agree with the reasoning that filler should be loosened first, in case it is seized up, but crack it to loosen and don't remove is a better idea. I didn't have the car perfectly level (off by a bit), so when I removed the filler, MT fluid started to pour out - got it all over the place as it hit the metal piece near the filler hole.

Next time, I will just crack the filler, then drain.

I was worried about finding the pump thing up here in Canada, but they are available at Lordco. It's distributed by/under the name Performance Tools.

As for the shield having to come off, I just removed the one fastener at the rear and just bent the plastic 180 degrees under itself. It stayed there by itself and I had enough room to do the deed without any problems.

Next, I get to flush the coolant............. part of the B 1 3 5 maintenance minder code I got (184, 617 km) on my 2009 Fit. Friend and I did the brake fluid flush last week. That was fun. Nothing like DIY.

 

Has anybody ever tried Mobil 75w-90 API GL5 (or 4) instead of the Honda gear fluid?

 

Not me.


You need the proper friction modifiers for the synchros, it's not just viscosity (and shear) that you need to worry about.


Either use Honda MTF or GM Synchromesh fluid. Some have used Redline.

 

Thank you for your reply.
Honda is not a producer of oil, I would love to know the composition of its MTF.
I believe that Mobil is one of the suppliers.

 

That ^^ may very well be true in Italy. Honda sources it's fluids from different refiners in various locales.


Honda does not publicize it's own specs to the public. In the USA, Honda fluid costs are midway between over-the-counter generic products available in autoparts stores and mass marketers, and boutique brands such as Amsoil or Redline.


++++++++++++

Again, not sure if this will be the same as what is available in Italy, but look for an analysis of Honda MTF at BobIsTheOilGuy.com

 

Royal Purple recommends XPR 5W30 to replace Honda MTF. Amsoil Synchromesh 5W30 is good too. Note that Redline does not have a comparable weight offering. I don't use Honda MTF.

 

GE8 2010 Honda Fit Sport Manual

You have helped me a lot so far - Thanks! Have another request.
Wanting to change the Manual Transmission Fluid. Not sure where the fill plug is. Looks like it has a wire coming out the top of it. Is this the fill plug? If not, where is it. Please see 2 attached photos. Where I think the fill plug is, is Bull Eye's on the photographs. Is this the fill plug?





close up

 

Probably NOT. That gray connector is the Reverse Light switch...


On a manual transmission, the fill plug is also the fluid level indicator. (You add MTF until it starts to dribble out of the fill hole of the trans. So, it is located on the side, anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 up from the bottom of the case) A filler on top would encourage folks to overfill...

Get underneath and look for another "bolt" with an aluminum crush-washer under it... On our GD, it's above and slightly rearward of the drain plug. Can't remember if it's a square hole-bolt like the drain, or just a 17mm hex bolt.


EDIT


I think it's the 17. # 15 on the diagram below:

 

I have verified with a Honda dealer based in the North of Italy and the advised gear box oil for the 1.2 and 1.4 MT engines is 75W80
According to the dealers comments sticking with quality brands such as Mobil or Castrol is fine.

 

Di mine this weekend:

I first removed airbox and battery with its case

 

and then used the funnel. With everything out of the way it has been easy.

 

sorry image upside down

removing front driver's wheel and plastic splash shield helps

 

I have used 75w80 GL5 gear oil.

 

Has anybody tried filling through the drain? GD3 here. Your transmission looks the same.

 

The drain is the lowest point on the trans. Difficult to fill it higher than that, if you think it through.

Lately I've gone to using a fluid pump that fits onto a quart or liter bottle. Just have a cork or stopper (an old bolt) handy to minimize a spill as you withdraw the tube.


Quart and Gallon Fluid Pump - Wilmar W1139 - RV Cleaners - Camping World


The pump allows filling from beneath, does not require removal of the battery or air intake.

 

Thanks to this forum I changed my fluid today and noticed an improvement in shifting smoothness.

The fluid was changed at 60k by lube shop then now at 120k I just finished changing it myself. 2016-02-27

Slightly more difficult than an oil change. This is for a 2007 Fit Sport purchased in Canada. Here is what I did:

First bought stuff I needed from Honda dealer 2 x 1L (1 qt) bottles of manual transmission fluid, fill plug gasket, and drain plug gaskets (these gaskets look just like steel washers) price was less than a dollar for each washer and just under $10 for each bottle of oil. Guy at shop said I'd need just less than 2L so I bought three bottles but ended up using 1.5L even though I spilled some too so 2L should be plenty for you.

1) drove car up on ramps. probably could jack front onto jack stands.
2) jacked up back and put on jack stands so the car was level. This is the first time i've done this and it worked well, quite safe.
3) had a look underneath to see what's what.
4) the pictures in this forum are spot on for what you'll see. No need to remove plastic shrouding under the car.
5) The fill plug and drain plug were very evident near the left inner cv joint. Of course the fill plug is higher up and the drain is further down.
6) Not sure why everyone seems to have different sized plugs on this forum but my fill plug was 17mm and the drain plug is very evidently a 3/8" square (for a socket driver) as you can see in the pictures.
7) cracked open fill plug first so I knew I'd be able to fill it. It required a bit of umph but was easier than my oil drain plug is normally. Then backed out plug with my fingers. After pulling out the plug two drops of oil dripped out of the fill hole. Perfect! That means it was already full of oil, a good sign.
8) Then I proceeded to crack open the drain plug too. Just as easy. Had my dirty oil basin in place and caught all the oil. It drains very fast.
9) Oil looked pretty clean but it's good to change it.
10) Waited for almost all of it to drain out, then replaced gasket on drain plug with a new one, cleaned it off a bit, then put it back in the drain plug hole and tightened it back snug.
11) Using a manual oil pump used for differentials and such (these can be bought $10 for a cheapo or $20 for a decent home one) I sucked a tiny bit of the new transmission fluid from the bottle into the pump then rolled the pump around in my hands to sort of rinse out the inside of the pump with the new oil then discharged the rinse oil into the waste oil basin. I did this twice... Sometimes I'm a little too careful with this stuff =).
12) Then I filled the oil pump from the new oil bottle, stuck the tube into the fill hole then pumped the oil into the transmission.
13) My pump is a simple plunger type so I could do this all from underneath the car pumping the oil up into the transmission which makes it fairly easy.
14) Kept doing this, filling pump then pushing it into the fill hole until I notice some dripping out from around the filler tube. I pulled out the filler tube then a small amount of oil was draining from the fill hole. I let this drain out for a bit. When it reduced to just drops then I put the fill plug, with the new gasket into the hole.
15) I read somewhere to torque fill plug to 33 ft-lb so that's what I did but I'm sure snugging it down good would be just fine. cleaned underside of car with shop towel.
16) Lowered car reverse from lifting and cleaned up.
17) Took car for a spin and noticed it shifts somewhat smoother. Great!

Took a first timer 1 hr.

$20 is much better than the $100 at the lube shop. You'd save money even if you had to buy the tools. Plus you know it's done right.

Thanks Fit Freaks!

 

Just did my 2007 MT Sport using instructions from 'benlichtenwald.' Very easy, used hand pump, thanks!