Noob ATF Drain/Fill + "flush"
#1
09-03-2012, 12:13 PM
Noob ATF Drain/Fill + "flush"
The purpose of the write up is to aggregate various ATF DIY into a single location. Please note what’s described here is how I “drain/fill” and “replace” Honda ATF on 2009 Fit Sport (US) between 25K to 30K miles. I’ve shamelessly copied a lot of pictures from this forum.
tools you will need:
- Jack and two jack stands or a ramp (i.e. Rhino Ramp. I used Rhino Ramp)
- 3/8 inch ratchet (extension and a breaker bar helps)
- Drain pan to catch fluid
- Rags and newspaper around the pan to catch overflow/spill
- transmission funnel ( from AutoZone or Walmart)
- Plier to release a hose clamp on one of the transmission line going into radiator
- Vinyl or nitril gloves or working gloves.
- Helper who will start and turn off the engine.
- Torque wrench ( optional )
Parts:
- 6 or 7 quarts of Honda ATF DW-1 (I usually buy a case – 12qts – at about $6/qt)
- 18mm washer that goes with the drain plug (part #: 90471-PX4-000, $2.50)
Overview of What I do
1. Drain and Fill about 3qts by draining the old fluid via the drain plug and fill via the ATF dip stick
2. Unhook on the transmission cooler line going into the radiator to drain about 3qts
3. Verify the fluid level when the engine is at operating temperature
4. Test Drive
5. Check the ATF level again when cold to keep a baseline of the cold level.
Raise the front of the car and prepare
- put on gloves
- Use a jack with jack stand or go up a ramp to raise the front of the car. I use Rhino Ramp. See picture below with ½ wood I use to go up the ramp without scratching the front air dam.
- Remember to choke the rear wheels to be safe.
- Open the hood and pull out the ATF dip stick (it’s a yellow colored dipstick that should be visible if you look next to the battery
- Position your drain pan near the drain bolt
Here are few pictures of the drain bolt
Drain old fluid
- Use 3/8 inch ratchet and insert the end into the drain plug. An extension may help. Break the plug. If too hard, use a breaker bar to break the bolt ( $10 from harbor freight )
- Loosen with hand and gently pull the plug to direct the flow of old fluid into the drain pan
- Use a rag to wipe clean the magnetic end of the drain plug. It will be dirty. See picture
- I usually let it drain for about 30 minutes or until I see slow drips every few seconds. You will get about 2.5 to 3 quarts this way. There still will be about 3 quarts remaining inside the transmission and torque converter. We will “drain” that later.
- Get a new 18mm crush gasket/washer and put the clean plug back in. Torque to about 36 lb.ft. If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten by hand until you feel resistance and then do a 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
(I don’t recommend re-using the washer, but if you have to, use a file to flatten the surface of the washer, use a sand paper to try to make it as smooth as possible, and then use cleaning agent to wash off the metal dust. Finally, when you tighten the drain plug, use a bit more force )
- Using the transmission funnel (see picture), pour in 3 qts of DW-1 into the dip stick hole.
Don’t worry about matching the volume that was drained for now.
- spray Windex or brake cleaner to get rid of the splashed fluid and wipe it off with a rag.
- Drain the pan into the empty quart bottle to measure how much came out. Keep one bottle empty for next step.
Drain from Transmission line
Purpose is to drain 3qts via the transmission line. Others in the forum recommend pulling from the “return” line but I found it to be too much of a hassle to get access to the line, so I am using the “hot” line going into the radiator, which has easier access. The impact is that I won’t get to pull the few oz of fluid inside the radiator.
View from the top of “hot” transmission line
View from the bottom
- Get under the front. Using pliers or other hose clamp tool, move the clamp back and pull the transmission line from the bottom of the radiator. Small amount of fluid will come out so prepare to catch that using the pan.
- Get one of the empty 1 quart DW-1 bottle. Position it on top of the pan with the transmission line going into the quart bottle.
- Ask your helper to start the engine and watch the bottle get filled with the fluid. Ask the helper to stop when the fluid nears the top. Close off the bottle and keep it for recycling.
- Fill 1 new quart via the funnel.
- Repeat above three steps to drain and fill 2nd quart
- For the last 3rd quart, drain less than full quart if the old fluid that came out via the drain plug was more than 3 quarts. If less than 3 quarts came out, then drain a little bit more than a quart.
- Re-attach the transmission line to the radiator and make sure the put the clamp back to where it was.
- Wipe the area clean of the fluids
- Pour in about 3/4 of a quart into the funnel and close off the dip stick. (You don’t want to over fill, so you are intentionally short filling now and will incrementally add while checking the level later)
Check ATF fluid level while hot.
- Remove chock and lower the car ( or come down from the ramp)
- Keep the engine running until you hear the radiator fan come on twice. Turn off the engine. Count to 60 seconds and pull the ATF dip stick to check the level. (You should check between 60 - 90 seconds ) If the fluid level is not between the MIN/MAX marks, pour little bit of ATF via the funnel into the dip stick and then repeat. It’s better to keep the fluid level around the middle of the mark rather than trying to hit the max level because you may overfill by mistake.
- When you’re done, go out for a test drive to make sure all gears are used. I usually drive at 55 mph for few minutes. Come back into level ground, keep the engine running until you hear the fan come on twice, check the level again after waiting for 60 seconds.
- After the car has been parked for the night, check the ATF fluid level again when the car is cold. This level will give you a base line to check the ATF fluid level without having to warm up the car.
If you're more into DIY, look up how to replace ATF filter in this forum. My personal plan is to change that out between 60K to 100K.
tools you will need:
- Jack and two jack stands or a ramp (i.e. Rhino Ramp. I used Rhino Ramp)
- 3/8 inch ratchet (extension and a breaker bar helps)
- Drain pan to catch fluid
- Rags and newspaper around the pan to catch overflow/spill
- transmission funnel ( from AutoZone or Walmart)
- Plier to release a hose clamp on one of the transmission line going into radiator
- Vinyl or nitril gloves or working gloves.
- Helper who will start and turn off the engine.
- Torque wrench ( optional )
Parts:
- 6 or 7 quarts of Honda ATF DW-1 (I usually buy a case – 12qts – at about $6/qt)
- 18mm washer that goes with the drain plug (part #: 90471-PX4-000, $2.50)
Overview of What I do
1. Drain and Fill about 3qts by draining the old fluid via the drain plug and fill via the ATF dip stick
2. Unhook on the transmission cooler line going into the radiator to drain about 3qts
3. Verify the fluid level when the engine is at operating temperature
4. Test Drive
5. Check the ATF level again when cold to keep a baseline of the cold level.
Raise the front of the car and prepare
- put on gloves
- Use a jack with jack stand or go up a ramp to raise the front of the car. I use Rhino Ramp. See picture below with ½ wood I use to go up the ramp without scratching the front air dam.
- Remember to choke the rear wheels to be safe.
- Open the hood and pull out the ATF dip stick (it’s a yellow colored dipstick that should be visible if you look next to the battery
- Position your drain pan near the drain bolt
Here are few pictures of the drain bolt
Drain old fluid
- Use 3/8 inch ratchet and insert the end into the drain plug. An extension may help. Break the plug. If too hard, use a breaker bar to break the bolt ( $10 from harbor freight )
- Loosen with hand and gently pull the plug to direct the flow of old fluid into the drain pan
- Use a rag to wipe clean the magnetic end of the drain plug. It will be dirty. See picture
- I usually let it drain for about 30 minutes or until I see slow drips every few seconds. You will get about 2.5 to 3 quarts this way. There still will be about 3 quarts remaining inside the transmission and torque converter. We will “drain” that later.
- Get a new 18mm crush gasket/washer and put the clean plug back in. Torque to about 36 lb.ft. If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten by hand until you feel resistance and then do a 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
(I don’t recommend re-using the washer, but if you have to, use a file to flatten the surface of the washer, use a sand paper to try to make it as smooth as possible, and then use cleaning agent to wash off the metal dust. Finally, when you tighten the drain plug, use a bit more force )
- Using the transmission funnel (see picture), pour in 3 qts of DW-1 into the dip stick hole.
Don’t worry about matching the volume that was drained for now.
- spray Windex or brake cleaner to get rid of the splashed fluid and wipe it off with a rag.
- Drain the pan into the empty quart bottle to measure how much came out. Keep one bottle empty for next step.
Drain from Transmission line
Purpose is to drain 3qts via the transmission line. Others in the forum recommend pulling from the “return” line but I found it to be too much of a hassle to get access to the line, so I am using the “hot” line going into the radiator, which has easier access. The impact is that I won’t get to pull the few oz of fluid inside the radiator.
View from the top of “hot” transmission line
View from the bottom
- Get under the front. Using pliers or other hose clamp tool, move the clamp back and pull the transmission line from the bottom of the radiator. Small amount of fluid will come out so prepare to catch that using the pan.
- Get one of the empty 1 quart DW-1 bottle. Position it on top of the pan with the transmission line going into the quart bottle.
- Ask your helper to start the engine and watch the bottle get filled with the fluid. Ask the helper to stop when the fluid nears the top. Close off the bottle and keep it for recycling.
- Fill 1 new quart via the funnel.
- Repeat above three steps to drain and fill 2nd quart
- For the last 3rd quart, drain less than full quart if the old fluid that came out via the drain plug was more than 3 quarts. If less than 3 quarts came out, then drain a little bit more than a quart.
- Re-attach the transmission line to the radiator and make sure the put the clamp back to where it was.
- Wipe the area clean of the fluids
- Pour in about 3/4 of a quart into the funnel and close off the dip stick. (You don’t want to over fill, so you are intentionally short filling now and will incrementally add while checking the level later)
Check ATF fluid level while hot.
- Remove chock and lower the car ( or come down from the ramp)
- Keep the engine running until you hear the radiator fan come on twice. Turn off the engine. Count to 60 seconds and pull the ATF dip stick to check the level. (You should check between 60 - 90 seconds ) If the fluid level is not between the MIN/MAX marks, pour little bit of ATF via the funnel into the dip stick and then repeat. It’s better to keep the fluid level around the middle of the mark rather than trying to hit the max level because you may overfill by mistake.
- When you’re done, go out for a test drive to make sure all gears are used. I usually drive at 55 mph for few minutes. Come back into level ground, keep the engine running until you hear the fan come on twice, check the level again after waiting for 60 seconds.
- After the car has been parked for the night, check the ATF fluid level again when the car is cold. This level will give you a base line to check the ATF fluid level without having to warm up the car.
If you're more into DIY, look up how to replace ATF filter in this forum. My personal plan is to change that out between 60K to 100K.
Last edited by CasualFitOwner; 07-16-2013 at 02:37 AM. Reason: fix broken pic link
#4
07-03-2013, 07:59 PM
2010 F.I.T. ATF extraction by evacuation pump
Is there an easier way to totally extract all ATF by sleeving hobby silicon tubing down to the dipstick bowels and evacuating the fluid? or will the engine need to be subsequently started to transport remainder fluid entrapped within the cooler and torque converter to the bowels where extract can be administered?
i successfully evacuated about 9-10 qts ATF this way 1996 Sentra 1.6 liter engine but i did not need to start the engine once bowels were emptied. I think what happened with this sentra was the cooler and torque converter volumes descended to the bowels automatically because of the tiny evacuation rate of extraction using an abandoned dialysis pump. I was astonished at the huge volume of spent ATF extracted. the dialysis pump must be fused to the 6 volt dc lantern battery and i chose to cool its dc motor with a small computer dc axial fan. the hobby tubing length involved imparts friction onto flow so optimized tubing length will conserve electricity. i parked the dialysis pump battery assembly right on top of the dipstick ledging for minimal tubing lengths (suction/discharge).
i do not know if the 2010 Honda F.I.T. cooler/TC volumes will self drain to the bowels owing to the extremely slow evac rate by the dialysis pump (overnight).
your response is welcome
i successfully evacuated about 9-10 qts ATF this way 1996 Sentra 1.6 liter engine but i did not need to start the engine once bowels were emptied. I think what happened with this sentra was the cooler and torque converter volumes descended to the bowels automatically because of the tiny evacuation rate of extraction using an abandoned dialysis pump. I was astonished at the huge volume of spent ATF extracted. the dialysis pump must be fused to the 6 volt dc lantern battery and i chose to cool its dc motor with a small computer dc axial fan. the hobby tubing length involved imparts friction onto flow so optimized tubing length will conserve electricity. i parked the dialysis pump battery assembly right on top of the dipstick ledging for minimal tubing lengths (suction/discharge).
i do not know if the 2010 Honda F.I.T. cooler/TC volumes will self drain to the bowels owing to the extremely slow evac rate by the dialysis pump (overnight).
your response is welcome
#5
02-27-2014, 09:40 AM
Very clear
finally I found one with all details included.....
The question for me is , how about using anything to " clean" the transmission before draining it... Like how we do with the engine oil... Is that a good thing to use?
The question for me is , how about using anything to " clean" the transmission before draining it... Like how we do with the engine oil... Is that a good thing to use?
#6
02-27-2014, 08:58 PM
Since the trans fluid goes through all parts of the transmission, the fluid itself can be thought as the cleaning agent. Why not repeat drain/fill again after about few hundred miles of driving?
#7
03-01-2014, 11:22 PM
Transmission Maintenance
Following this an others images and DIYs, with 30K Km, ended up not using any flushing agent before doing the job,
...did replace the filter. The closer end ( in-way from radiator) has pressure, once you remove the pipe, fluid will go nuts everywhere, need to be ready for it... the far end of the filter ( back to tranny) is dry.
The magnet after being cleaned... you see the metallic dust on the paper...
The difference between the Oil washer (Left) and Transmission washer ( right)
Old and new oil comparison, the new had this strong smell...
I did removed the return, as the airbox was out, for the filter change, it gives an easy access..
And this is how it looked once flushed, with some new oil at the end
FIT's tranny is smooth as a baby skin...
...did replace the filter. The closer end ( in-way from radiator) has pressure, once you remove the pipe, fluid will go nuts everywhere, need to be ready for it... the far end of the filter ( back to tranny) is dry.
The magnet after being cleaned... you see the metallic dust on the paper...
The difference between the Oil washer (Left) and Transmission washer ( right)
Old and new oil comparison, the new had this strong smell...
I did removed the return, as the airbox was out, for the filter change, it gives an easy access..
And this is how it looked once flushed, with some new oil at the end
FIT's tranny is smooth as a baby skin...
Last edited by camivill; 03-01-2014 at 11:27 PM.
#8
03-08-2014, 06:27 PM
Doing mine right now. If I need to add more atf cause it isn't high enough. Do I need to wait a while and redo the fan and count to 60 procedure, or can I just immediately reinsert the dipstick?
#9
06-16-2014, 04:13 PM
Fit ATF Change Fill Plug Washer Question
This thread is MOST helpful. Thanks. I have read bits and unclear pieces about a Fill plug washer (Part #94109-20000 (Fill Plug) 20mm) as well as the Drain plug washer mentioned here. In CasualFitOwners "Noob ATF Drain/Fill + "flush" post the parts list only lists the Drain Plug washer. Do I need a fill plug washer if I am going to change my 2013 Sport Fit ATF myself (well, with a friends help really)?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#10
06-23-2014, 12:39 AM
Agh, this forum and its expired tokens. Let me re-type my comment; hopefully it will submit.
A huge Thank You to Casual Fit Owner. This guide is perfect! Using my husband's assistance I managed to quickly complete the flush.
I was skeptical that the shifts would be smoother. My goal was just to extend the life of the transmission. To my surprise, the shifts do seem smoother. If that's a result of idling so long to warm the car, I don't know. Oddly, the fans never started on my car after idling for a long time. The radiator hoses were hot, though.
I'm so relieved to have this done! Wahoo!
A huge Thank You to Casual Fit Owner. This guide is perfect! Using my husband's assistance I managed to quickly complete the flush.
I was skeptical that the shifts would be smoother. My goal was just to extend the life of the transmission. To my surprise, the shifts do seem smoother. If that's a result of idling so long to warm the car, I don't know. Oddly, the fans never started on my car after idling for a long time. The radiator hoses were hot, though.
I'm so relieved to have this done! Wahoo!
#11
06-15-2015, 07:15 PM
thank you
did the 'noob' flush at 44K and the fluid looked like used motor oil. Mine is a SoCal car and gets mostly expressway miles. Furthermore, I'm not a hard driver at all (everyone calls me 'featherfoot'). Definitely recommend this procedure at 30K. The tranny now shifts like it used to.
FYI, for people who (like me) don't really know what they're doing, when you drain the ATF out of the radiator return hose, the fluid comes quickly out of the hose, not the metal end that is connected to the radiator. I did this procedure without a proper drain pan and without a helper and regretted it, so it's a good idea to follow procedure...
FYI, for people who (like me) don't really know what they're doing, when you drain the ATF out of the radiator return hose, the fluid comes quickly out of the hose, not the metal end that is connected to the radiator. I did this procedure without a proper drain pan and without a helper and regretted it, so it's a good idea to follow procedure...
#12
06-15-2015, 07:26 PM
yeah, you do. the washer deforms to fit the hole when the bolt is tightened. Get a new one each time you put the plug on.
#13
07-09-2015, 02:59 AM
this is an awesome write up for atf but I have a few questions.
1: Is this the same procedure for the 2006 auto jazz?
2. how would I find the correct washer/part number for replace?
3. why do you start the car without fluid in the transmission isn't there still a gear moving when in park?
4. having the pipe removed doesn't this cause an issue with the ecu or other parts of the engine?
1: Is this the same procedure for the 2006 auto jazz?
2. how would I find the correct washer/part number for replace?
3. why do you start the car without fluid in the transmission isn't there still a gear moving when in park?
4. having the pipe removed doesn't this cause an issue with the ecu or other parts of the engine?
#14
07-16-2015, 12:07 AM
this is an awesome write up for atf but I have a few questions.
1: Is this the same procedure for the 2006 auto jazz?
Even I had a First Generation Jazz I wont even remember, you could check on the First generation Forum on this website....
2. how would I find the correct washer/part number for replace?
The Part Number was provided right above this answer... read closely...
3. why do you start the car without fluid in the transmission isn't there still a gear moving when in park?
You Start the car because there will be a pump moving up the liquid, you would need to start it so the old liquid us pumped out... Need and extra person...you move the gear to, somehow, wash out anything ugly between the pieces....
4. having the pipe removed doesn't this cause an issue with the ecu or other parts of the engine?
1: Is this the same procedure for the 2006 auto jazz?
Even I had a First Generation Jazz I wont even remember, you could check on the First generation Forum on this website....
2. how would I find the correct washer/part number for replace?
The Part Number was provided right above this answer... read closely...
3. why do you start the car without fluid in the transmission isn't there still a gear moving when in park?
You Start the car because there will be a pump moving up the liquid, you would need to start it so the old liquid us pumped out... Need and extra person...you move the gear to, somehow, wash out anything ugly between the pieces....
4. having the pipe removed doesn't this cause an issue with the ecu or other parts of the engine?
#15
09-19-2015, 10:50 PM
CasualFitOwner you are the man!!
Or possibly the lady, I don't know. Thank you for this excellent post. Anyone who reads this afterwards, it is possible to use a low pressure air nozzle with a rubber tip inserted into the end of the hose connected to the input side of the radiator cooler to push the old fluid back up to the transmission case after draining the 2.8 quarts from the transmission sump. Also, it is recommended elsewhere by DIY mechanics to change the 2.8 quarts at each oil change interval for four times in a row. For what it is worth. Thanks again for the excellent post.
#16
01-18-2017, 03:25 PM
I'm planning to do transmission drain/fill tomorrow for the first time myself. This is a very good write up, thank you. Couple of quick questions:
1) The images in the OP are not loading, is there another thread or some place else i can look up the pictures? I don't know how to remove the transmission line to the radiator, hence needs some help... I haven't found any videos/pictures on the internet.
2) Where exactly is the drain bolt located, is it on the driver side or passenger side?
3) Is 36 lb-ft correct torque , read a few places where its mentioned as 29-30 lb-ft.
1) The images in the OP are not loading, is there another thread or some place else i can look up the pictures? I don't know how to remove the transmission line to the radiator, hence needs some help... I haven't found any videos/pictures on the internet.
2) Where exactly is the drain bolt located, is it on the driver side or passenger side?
3) Is 36 lb-ft correct torque , read a few places where its mentioned as 29-30 lb-ft.
#19
04-03-2017, 09:58 PM
Or possibly the lady, I don't know. Thank you for this excellent post. Anyone who reads this afterwards, it is possible to use a low pressure air nozzle with a rubber tip inserted into the end of the hose connected to the input side of the radiator cooler to push the old fluid back up to the transmission case after draining the 2.8 quarts from the transmission sump. Also, it is recommended elsewhere by DIY mechanics to change the 2.8 quarts at each oil change interval for four times in a row. For what it is worth. Thanks again for the excellent post.
#20
04-03-2017, 10:00 PM
This thread is MOST helpful. Thanks. I have read bits and unclear pieces about a Fill plug washer (Part #94109-20000 (Fill Plug) 20mm) as well as the Drain plug washer mentioned here. In CasualFitOwners "Noob ATF Drain/Fill + "flush" post the parts list only lists the Drain Plug washer. Do I need a fill plug washer if I am going to change my 2013 Sport Fit ATF myself (well, with a friends help really)?
Thanks!
Thanks!