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2nd Generation GE8 Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-ForumThreads discussing repairs and maintenance you can do yourself on the 2nd generation Honda Fit (GE8)
Looks like the Imageshack picture links are broken. Can the OP repost the pictures?
Sorry!!!. I no longer have the pics. Instead of doing flushes, I drain from the transmission drain plug every time I do engine oil change which happens on any where from 4K to 8K miles. At least on my wife's 2009 Fit with the front wheels resting on top of a ramp, about 2.5 quarts of tranny fluid drain out, so I usually refill that much through the tranny dipstick location. The fluid is always red and there is hardly any crud sticking on the magnetic plug. The only downside is the need to buy the crush gasket, but you can reuse it couple times.
I wanted to update this thread with pics in case anyone else ever comes across it (CausualFitOwner, feel free to add my pics to your OP if you want). Changing the fluid is not difficult once you get underneath the car, but there's probably some people out there like me who like to research this stuff thoroughly before you even buy any parts so you know what you're getting into. So without further ado:
The drain plug. This is about at the centerline of the car... the imaginary line that runs front to rear and divides the car in half.
Reference for what the hot line is, directly behind the coolant overflow bottle. Don't undo the bolt here or touch anything from the topside, this is just a reference for where the line is located.
From the bottom, again... this is about near the centerline of the car. As a reference point in this picture, you can see the engine coolant hose from the water pump a few inches to the right.
My thoughts/experiences:
I do not currently have ramps. I did oil and ATF at the same time and found that simply jacking up the drivers side (and placing heavy duty jack stands as backups) was plenty clearance to work. A bonus since it was tilted in the direction of the drain plug, I probably got a few extra ounces out of the initial drain.
Assuming your plug was originally torqued correctly, you pretty much have to have a breaker bar to loosen this thing. I have a 3ft section of iron pipe I picked up along time ago for ~$2 at a big box store for precisely this occasion.
I read somewhere where someone said it took about 9 seconds to fill a quart bottle. Since I was doing this myself, I found 5s to be the magic number. Any more and it would overflow the bottle.
Measuring fluid is difficult and fairly imprecise. Rather than trying to measure the initial dump from the case and then adding more/less to correspond on the last fill-up, easier to just keep checking the level on the dipstick as you add some on the last fill (and of course follow directions of checking it hot afterwords).
After quite a bit of research, I went with Maxlife ATF. Was literally 1/3rd the cost of what dealer was charging for DW-1 quart. 2 gallons of the stuff can be had for ~$34 from any walmart and that gives you an extra 2 quarts to play with and flush even more crud out. If you're religious about using DW-1, by all means, go with that. I'm just saying, I spent several hours researching this and I'm confident in the choice I made. Old ATF that came out at 60k miles did not look or smell too bad at all. But after filling with Maxlife, shifts are so much crisper and the car drives way smoother.
glad to see somebody is using maxlife atf.
been using it on the 2 honda odyssey minivans i've had.
works for me. will be using maxlife on a new to me 2010 fit sport.
is everybody using oem atf .
planning on using valvoline maxlife atf.
thanks
I've always used the Honda OEM transmission fluid. I figure they know best what works in their transmissions. The Valvoline may be just as good, but the OEM is my preference. Sometimes Bernardi's has it on special online.
I've always used the Honda OEM transmission fluid. I figure they know best what works in their transmissions. The Valvoline may be just as good, but the OEM is my preference. Sometimes Bernardi's has it on special online.
honda does not always know best.
just take a look at the problems they had with ATF-Z1, they had to switch to DW1.
remember honda does not make their own fluids. they get it from other makers.
on other honda cars , suv and vans there are many people that use other ATF.
Hi. I have a 2012 Jazz Hybrid with CVT. Q: Is the drain plug washer for the cvt plug the same washer as for the oil drain.plug? Is part no 90471-PX4-000, correct for both plugs? Or is that only for an older model or ATM? Thanks. Jeff
Thanks, evilchargerfan. The reason I was looking for confirmation of the Honda part numbers, is because I hope to order the crush washers online.
My understanding is that: 94109-1400 (14mm) is the correct OIL plug drain washer; and,
90471-PX40000 (18mm) is the correct CVT plug washer, but before ordering, I wanted to make sure that those were correct for a 2012 Jazz Hybrid GP1. If anyone can confirm these part numbers, that would be great as I did not find an 'exploded view' of parts with part numbers.
the hondapartsguys website allows us to choose year, make, model, transmission type
no where on there, do they allow an option to specify "jazz hybrid gp1"
you'll want to do further digging .... and you may want to use other honda stores / websites that stock that model and you should be able to dig up the correct pn's
just did this dyi.
thanks to the OP beardedgti.
used maxlife atf. just feels smoother specially from dead stop.
used about 3.1 quarts. will drive a little bit and then do the second drain and fill.'
one question though. is there a plastic cover that covers oil pan and filter ?
This was incredibly helpful. I felt confident in doing this myself with my brother in law and got it done without a problem!! I know that I can always turn to this site for accurate and reliable info and how-to's.
I just did a drain and fill (transmission only, not radiator) using my Mightyvac fluid extractor. I was able to draw out about 2.5 quarts of fluid, so that is how much I put back in. The annoying thing about it, is that my longest funnel isn't long enough to reach the fill opening, so I just used the Mightyvac to put in the new fluid. It isn't the fastest process in the world though but it is super clean and I don't spill a drop or get my hands wet. It's an especially handy method for my GM cars which don't have a drain plug - you're supposed to drop the pan and of course that makes a huge mess. With the Mightyvac I just extract the fluid first before I drop the pan. Nice and neat.
Obviously 2.5 quarts is just a portion of the total ATF capacity, so I'll plan on doing this a couple more times in the upcoming month or so. That should probably get most of the old fluid out.
I like the idea of this procedure vs repeated standard changes over a short time frame as a way to change the majority of the ATF.
I am curious if anyone has a schematic or description of the AFT flow path through the system? When you remove the AT cooler line and follow the procedure above, is the ATF that you're pumping out the old fluid that was trapped in the system and didn't drain through the pan drain plug or new fluid that you just added? Or, to think of it another way, does the AT cooler line pull fluid from the pan or return fluid to the pan (obviously the system could be more complex, with the cooler loop being intermediate in the system, but I'm asking about the general relationship).
