I'm making this DIY for all of you that don't have a service manual or don't like the pictures in the service manual. For all of you that don't have the service manual, I recommend you get it or ensure that you have access to it. You can get a CD copy on eBay for $20 or a print copy for $85. Cheap insurance incase you really foul something up!

Items needed to do this procedure:
*Beverage of choice (but as a safety professional, I cannot condone drinking said beverage by chemicals [engine oil]). Don't ask, don't tell!
*L15A7 engine
*Set of feeler gauges (see below for sizes)
*Tube of Hondabond (or equivalent gasket maker)
*Phillips screwdriver
*Small flathead screwdriver
*10mm open ended wrench
*19mm extended socket
*10mm extended socket
*12mm extended socket
*Socket extension (where appropriate)
*Socket wrench(es) (likely a 3/8" and a 1/2" depending on your tools)
*Pliers (needle nose and flat jaw recommended)

OPTIONAL: 12341-RB0-003 Honda Valve Cover Gasket (only needed to reassurance or if you plan on replacing it - unless the original is damaged, you should be able to reuse it)

**DISCLAIMER**: As with any DIY on any internet forum, I cannot be held responsible for omissions or errors that may contribute to you not being able to complete this job nor am I responsible for any damages caused as a result of this maintenance procedure. If you are unwilling, unable, or not very competent in maintenance, you are discouraged from performing this procedure.

The if this is your first time performing this procedure, it'll likely take you 2-3 hours to do. After you've done it once, though, it should take you not much more than an hour for tear down, measurements and adjustments, and reassembly. Also keep in mind that your vehicle will need to be "cold" (meaning at ambient temperature and the engine has not been run in 6-8 hours). Also keep in mind that your vehicle will essentially not be drivable during this procedure, so if you forgot a tool or there is an emergency, you might be boned unless you have access to another vehicle (recommended).

Onwards to tear down:

First, turn the wheels all the way to the right (as a reminder, don't turn on the car for this - you should be able to do it with some muscle). This will allow you to not have to remove the wheel and easily allow access to the crank to spin the engine to the position you need it.

Then, open the bonnet (hood). Stare in mild admiration at L15A7.


Remove the clips to the air filter and the cable going to the MAF and remove the air filter box and filter.


Disconnect the battery connections and holder bracket by using a 10mm extended socket. You will not need to completely unbolt the holder bracket since the hangers can be undone by sliding them out from underneath the battery mount. Remove battery, battery tray, and holder bracket.


Loosen clamp holding the rest of the airbox to the throttle body. Don't worry about it sliding back - Honda designed a holder of sorts to keep it from sliding back. Make sure to only loosen - do not unscrew completely.


Then remove the two 10mm bolts holding the airbox to the engine and transmission and undo the green wire holder. Carefully slide/wiggle the assembly away from the throttle body. Then remove metal vacuum tube (circled in red, out of view) away from airbox using pliers to relieve pressure off the rubber gasket. Then remove assembly from the area.


Remove the four (4) 12mm bolts from the throttle body. Take care not to look the metal brackets on the back and front side of the throttle body. Carefully push throttle body out of way.


Disconnect the two wires shown.


Remove the five (5) 12mm bolts holding the plastic manifold to the metal one. Remove metal bracket behind plastic manifold.


Then remove the two (2) 10mm bolts from behind the plastic manifold.


Remove the last 12mm bolt on the side of the plastic manifold and the vacuum tube from the valve cover. There is also a tube connected to the backside of the plastic manifold that will need to be undone from a holding bracket. You do not need to remove the tube from the plastic manifold, but you can simply place over to the side.


Carefully disconnect the coil pack connectors, release the left side bracket and slide the wire assembly out of the way.



Then remove the eight (8) 10mm bolts holding the valve cover. Remove cover.


All items removed for check:


You are now presented with the inner workings of the L15A7. Note cylinder numbers and intake and exhaust valves (but you should already know that).


Notice the cam chain area and the marking that indicate top dead center (TDC) for the cylinder number indicated. The photo below shows you that I was close to cylinder #2 TDC. The line should be as close to flush (and horizontal) with the top of the head.


Now insert the 19mm socket with appropriate extension into to the perforated hole in the passenger side front wheel well to turn the crank. Make sure to only turn the crank clockwise! If you are good (read: tall), you can turn the crank and see where your marking are without help from a friend. Position to the cylinder of choice and then check that cylinder, both intake and exhaust, for clearance.


Valve Clearance (cold)
Intake 0.15－0.19 mm (0.006－0.007 in)
Exhaust 0.26－0.30 mm (0.010－0.012 in)

Remember when checking clearances, that you should feel a slight resistance and should feel a slight vibration as you slide the gauge back and fourth. This indicates that you are at the selected thickness. Take care not to bend the gauge while checking the measurements as it can lead to incorrect measurements/adjustments. For more information on doing adjustments refer to this page. Adjustments are completed by using your 100 open ended wrench and a flat head screwdriver to adjust the gap. Make sure to re-tighten the nut while holding the screw in place during adjustments!

Have fun!


After all cylinders have been checked and adjusted, reassemble in reverse order. Make sure to clean the area that the gasket will come into contact with and to put a dab of Hondabond on the cam seam (front and back) before replacing the valve cover.

 

It sure can't hurt. For some people that have never done a valve adjustment on a Fit or any engine it would it would encourage them to do it themselves. I'm all for DIY especially on things that are not too difficult.

On another forum we have been talking a Lawyer through rebuilding a 30 year old 6KW gasoline generator. He has learned a lot and is getting a lot of satisfaction from learning new skills.

Go for it.

 

it would be greatly appreciated if you did this. i'm almost at 60,000mi and have never done this before. want to check after reading the tales of ppl who checked and found their valves had no clearances.

 

I ended up doing it last night since I found some time. I checked my clearances around 28k and then had to recheck at 35k. Last night's were done at just shy of 50k miles and all were still within spec.

 

Couple questions:

Any trustworthy offset feeler gauge you would recommend?

Would this tool help?
Since I'll be removing parts from the engine, I think I'll do the valve adjustment later when I want to replace the spark plugs and the auto transmission fluid filter. I think I may clean out the throttle body too.

 

The best way I have found for getting them right the first time is to use the feeler gauge that is the right size. Then get the right clearance then tighten the screw SLOWLY.

At the same time moving the gauge back and forth, but never pulling it out completely, until it gets just tight enough so you can no longer move the gauge by pulling on it SLIGHTLY (no need to really get it tight). Then hold that setting with the screwdriver and tightening the locknut.

What happens is when you tighten up the lock nut it pulls up on the adjuster INCREASING the clearance at the other end.

So if you start with the correct clearance, with a freely moving gauge, and then tighten the nut you end up with TOO MUCH clearance and have to do it over again.

My way it starts out a bit too tight BUT when you tighten the nut it's perfect.

 

keeping in topic, I sent out 5 e-mails to local Honda dealers yesterday. Here are the prices I got for doing the valve adjustments (from the dealers that actually responded):

$170, $240, and $450. I'm going to bring the one written quote of $170 to the closest dealer to my house and see if they will match the price. I only sent out these inquiries because I thought it couldn't hurt to try. I am amazed that the dealer pricing would be so radically different. I thought they all went by a special rate code book, and since there is little/no parts involved with this service, I figured the prices would all come back the same.

What do you all think about paying Honda $170 to do the valve clearances?
Seems like a very good deal to me. My personal mechanic wanted $350 as I recall.

 

ill pay 170 lol from dealer any day

 

$170 seems like 1.5 hours with a price of gasket. Very decent, I think.

 

yeah, you should have seen the look on the Assistant Service Manger's face; priceless. I then showed her the price from a second dealer at $240. At $170 and $240, it was a whole lot cheaper than the $450 they tried to make me pay a month ago. I just hope they actually do the valve clearance adjustment. Since my car is running like a hybrid (no vibrations at stop signs and no loud valve noises) at 95,000 miles, I wouldn't know if they actually took off the valve cover and did the job. I'm definitely going to keep trolling for prices like this in the future. If they want my business, they'll have to compete for it. Otherwise, I have an excellent mechanic that I've used for over 25 years.

 

thanks to those of you who kicked me in the pants to get the valves adjusted. While there wasn't any sign of trouble, at 95,000 miles, I'm sure it was an overdue service given the previous owner did little/nothing on the car except oil changes. It was funny; I went to the dealer to see how the car was progressing. She said it was not done, so I asked how much she wanted to throw in 4 spark plugs given the engine cover was off. She quoted me the book price of $112. I gave her a scowl and all she did was apologize given the ridiculous price. I was surprised that she didn't try to earn some money for her dealership when I balked. I told her that unless the plugs are seized in there, I'll change them out myself; they look easy enough. In the end, I paid $170 for the valve adjustment, which I am pretty happy about.

I should go with Denso Iridium, right?

 

that's what i'm putting in this week-end

GD

 

very nice tutorial....... viewed several times before performing the valve adjustment on my 09 honda with 57 K on the clock.

as per se with others , exhaust valves were tight.....intakes were about .007.

set the exhaust to a tight .012 and the intakes to .006.....

man What a difference....she purrrs and seems more responsive than before.

either some monkey at the factory set every valve at .007 OR honda is using a weak/soft exhaust seat to have that knida of wear in 57K. i would think it is the previous...since anything but stellite & titanium seats can withstand the heat generated in today engine and survive without tetra-ethyl lead to lube the seats.

thanx again for the tutorial..... pictures are worth a thousand words especially when the factory manuals are vague...not saying hondas are, but some sure are!

GD

after my valve adjustment i have been wondering if the tight exhaust valve adjustment from the factory isn't a problem with monkey's or Q.C. but maybe a slight of hand to make the engine meet the EPA standards? i mean this setting would change up some readings at the tail pipe and with the alloy valves & stelite hardened seats maybe honda felt they could fly by the warrenty period before any repercussions surfaced from the tight valve settings..........just a thought and honda has received a letter from me about these out of spec settings.....

 

i have a question about the TDC picture---when you get #2 in position, what line am i looking for? is it that slash just to the right of the #2 and just above the hole that is cutout?

 

there will be a scribe mark (line) on the hub of the cam gear.

with the number, at the top, at the 12 o'clock position as referenced to a clock face, the scribe mark or line should run horizonal/ perpendicular with the top edge of the head where the valve cover was before it was removed. try to make sure the line is even,...meaning level with the edge.

hope this helps..

GD

 

sure does, now that fall temps are here i think i'll tackle this thanks to this great write up/pics!

 

that might also be a better way of getting to the spark plugs by removing the air intake box off the rocker cover

thanks very interesting set of pics

 

"Valve Clearance (cold)
Intake 0.15－0.19 mm (0.006－0.007 in)
Exhaust 0.26－0.30 mm (0.010－0.012 in)"

Do you know if this is also valid for the 1.2 liter 90 HP sold in Europe (Italy)?

 

a week pass this last saturday i adjusted the valves on my son's 2013 fit base model manual trans at 24K.

i was suprised to find the lash clearences within specs.

didn't bother to change a thing.

now i'm wondering if my 09's valve lash was miss set during a re-call on the valve train that occurred within a year or so after i had the car.??
after re-reading what the manual stated about valve train lash adjustment interverals i decided to check mine at 54K if my memory is correct...and as stated in a previous post, the exhaust valves were .002-.004 tighter than they should've been. i didn't connect the warrenty work with the tight clearences at first but instead sent a letter to honda explaining what i had found and how the manual misleads people on when to do the lash inspections.....all honds cared about was if i had a stink and if i wanted money or something free. so much has changed since the old man died! so much for big corporations.....

 

Another question, does piston 2 cranck together with number 3?