DIY Valve Clearance Check
#62
02-26-2018, 09:38 PM
Great success.
I did my best to try to redo the pics for the original post while I did my valve adjustment. Hope it helps. I followed the original post for my first valve adjustment and now I don't even have to refer to it anymore. I skipped the intake removal since I no longer have the stock intake and the pic wouldnt make sense.
Thanks guys! Cheers!
#63
02-26-2018, 10:34 PM
it was for me too. The saddest thing about my Fit having been totalled last month was how much I enjoyed working on the valves!
#65
03-27-2018, 02:13 AM
Hey guys, I have a '13 FIT with 66,000.
I will be tackling this for the third time in a span of 4 days after hearing a ticking noise that was not present before the valve adjustment.
Is everyone using koolkevin1107's guide where anything after the range shouldn't fit?
For example, for the intake: 0.008 and exhaust 0.012 should not fit?
The last two valve adjustments I did had it where 0.008 and 0.012 were dragging, which I suspect is too loose and causing an overlap.
Any input/advice would be great!
Thanks in advance!
I will be tackling this for the third time in a span of 4 days after hearing a ticking noise that was not present before the valve adjustment.
Is everyone using koolkevin1107's guide where anything after the range shouldn't fit?
For example, for the intake: 0.008 and exhaust 0.012 should not fit?
The last two valve adjustments I did had it where 0.008 and 0.012 were dragging, which I suspect is too loose and causing an overlap.
Any input/advice would be great!
Thanks in advance!
#66
03-27-2018, 06:58 AM
It's normal to hear a louder drivetrain after doing a valve clearance adjustment. Especially if you set the exhausts 'loose'. (If the spec is .012, I treat .013 as 'no-go' and .011 as 'go'.)
Consider it to be "Music to your Ears".
Consider it to be "Music to your Ears".
#67
03-27-2018, 08:02 AM
I've been debating going back and doing the adjustment over again, but haven't noticed any loss of power or mpgs - which I would think is the major criteria for re-doing the adjustment. I also read that a slight tick is ok. So, I think I'm going to leave it for now.
#68
03-27-2018, 10:58 AM
Here is the noise coming in from mine. The ticking is signficantly loud, much like a diesel truck on idle. Lol
I will try again in a few minutes and hopefully it sounds much better.
Thank you for your input!
Thank you for your input!
#69
09-08-2019, 02:13 AM
Used this today so big thanks! My 09 is at 105500 so decided to knock this out. All my intake valves were within spec. 3 of my exhaust valves were tight with 1 being especially tighter than the others. Changed plugs while i was in there and torqued down to 20 lbft. Its crazy how tucked in the engine is under the windshield.
#70
03-24-2020, 06:29 PM
2009 Fit Base 112k first valve adjustment and plugs.
So I like to get a PHD instead of dive head first and stare blankly at the unknown. Gathered all my info from every credible source, grabbed all torque specs for every bolt from wiper to valve jam nuts and most of all clearance specs for the valves. Too much speculation. Chilton says 0.06-0.07 intake and 0.11 exhaust but I’ve seen 0.10-0.12 I think chilton went the middle route which is what I’ve read. Most of my intakes were at a 6 so I set them to 7’s and all exhaust couldn’t get that 11 in there didn’t even try a 10 so set all those. I can hear a small amount of chatter though but haven’t driven more than 4 miles yet to really heat it up to see if they expand enough to close the gaps till this Thursday and if it’s still there, will go in again and take the intakes down to 6’s but since the exhaust seem to tighten up so much I’ll roll and see what it sound like with that adjustment. Before you start! Order the valve cover gasket, plenum gaskets and throttle body gasket if your taking that off. Also I highly suggest a pack of aftermarket blue cowl clips, I have the correct tools but a lot of them broke, 10 year old plastic... yeah go figure also I went ahead and replaced the cowl and hinge corner seals as they basically fell off anyways and were weathered. I used outdoor weather stripping that resembled it from Home Depot. If I go back in this weekend I’m doing a tutorial video as there’s a few out there but the in-depth instructions just aren’t there. But my first time really doing anything on this car, even bought an inch pound torque wrench cause I believe in engineering specs and the straight armed two finger wrist stop method doesn’t cut it for me. Good luck with yours. Do your research cause where some of these people got the specs like 5 and 8 well they will be doing some damage.
Last edited by Chris Adamson; 03-24-2020 at 06:29 PM. Reason: Typo
#71
06-28-2020, 07:56 PM
I noticed a few of the photos looked like the cowl had already been removed. On my '09 Fit there is almost no space to do this with out pulling the entire cowl away and the windshield wiper mechanism, very complex before you even get near the valve cover/plugs. That's the only thing I'm unsure of how to remove, I'm afraid of mangling the cowl clips and such. No easy task it appears.
#72
06-29-2020, 09:05 AM
I noticed a few of the photos looked like the cowl had already been removed. On my '09 Fit there is almost no space to do this with out pulling the entire cowl away and the windshield wiper mechanism, very complex before you even get near the valve cover/plugs. That's the only thing I'm unsure of how to remove, I'm afraid of mangling the cowl clips and such. No easy task it appears.
#73
06-29-2020, 09:05 AM
I noticed a few of the photos looked like the cowl had already been removed. On my '09 Fit there is almost no space to do this with out pulling the entire cowl away and the windshield wiper mechanism, very complex before you even get near the valve cover/plugs. That's the only thing I'm unsure of how to remove, I'm afraid of mangling the cowl clips and such. No easy task it appears.
#75
11-08-2021, 10:28 PM
I'm making this DIY for all of you that don't have a service manual or don't like the pictures in the service manual. For all of you that don't have the service manual, I recommend you get it or ensure that you have access to it. You can get a CD copy on eBay for $20 or a print copy for $85. Cheap insurance incase you really foul something up!
Items needed to do this procedure:
*Beverage of choice (but as a safety professional, I cannot condone drinking said beverage by chemicals [engine oil]). Don't ask, don't tell!
*L15A7 engine
*Set of feeler gauges (see below for sizes)
*Tube of Hondabond (or equivalent gasket maker)
*Phillips screwdriver
*Small flathead screwdriver
*10mm open ended wrench
*19mm extended socket
*10mm extended socket
*12mm extended socket
*Socket extension (where appropriate)
*Socket wrench(es) (likely a 3/8" and a 1/2" depending on your tools)
*Pliers (needle nose and flat jaw recommended)
OPTIONAL: 12341-RB0-003 Honda Valve Cover Gasket (only needed to reassurance or if you plan on replacing it - unless the original is damaged, you should be able to reuse it)
**DISCLAIMER**: As with any DIY on any internet forum, I cannot be held responsible for omissions or errors that may contribute to you not being able to complete this job nor am I responsible for any damages caused as a result of this maintenance procedure. If you are unwilling, unable, or not very competent in maintenance, you are discouraged from performing this procedure.
The if this is your first time performing this procedure, it'll likely take you 2-3 hours to do. After you've done it once, though, it should take you not much more than an hour for tear down, measurements and adjustments, and reassembly. Also keep in mind that your vehicle will need to be "cold" (meaning at ambient temperature and the engine has not been run in 6-8 hours). Also keep in mind that your vehicle will essentially not be drivable during this procedure, so if you forgot a tool or there is an emergency, you might be boned unless you have access to another vehicle (recommended).
Onwards to tear down:
First, turn the wheels all the way to the right (as a reminder, don't turn on the car for this - you should be able to do it with some muscle). This will allow you to not have to remove the wheel and easily allow access to the crank to spin the engine to the position you need it.
Then, open the bonnet (hood). Stare in mild admiration at L15A7.
Remove the clips to the air filter and the cable going to the MAF and remove the air filter box and filter.
Disconnect the battery connections and holder bracket by using a 10mm extended socket. You will not need to completely unbolt the holder bracket since the hangers can be undone by sliding them out from underneath the battery mount. Remove battery, battery tray, and holder bracket.
Loosen clamp holding the rest of the airbox to the throttle body. Don't worry about it sliding back - Honda designed a holder of sorts to keep it from sliding back. Make sure to only loosen - do not unscrew completely.
Then remove the two 10mm bolts holding the airbox to the engine and transmission and undo the green wire holder. Carefully slide/wiggle the assembly away from the throttle body. Then remove metal vacuum tube (circled in red, out of view) away from airbox using pliers to relieve pressure off the rubber gasket. Then remove assembly from the area.
Remove the four (4) 12mm bolts from the throttle body. Take care not to look the metal brackets on the back and front side of the throttle body. Carefully push throttle body out of way.
Disconnect the two wires shown.
Remove the five (5) 12mm bolts holding the plastic manifold to the metal one. Remove metal bracket behind plastic manifold.
Then remove the two (2) 10mm bolts from behind the plastic manifold.
Remove the last 12mm bolt on the side of the plastic manifold and the vacuum tube from the valve cover. There is also a tube connected to the backside of the plastic manifold that will need to be undone from a holding bracket. You do not need to remove the tube from the plastic manifold, but you can simply place over to the side.
Carefully disconnect the coil pack connectors, release the left side bracket and slide the wire assembly out of the way.
Then remove the eight (8) 10mm bolts holding the valve cover. Remove cover.
All items removed for check:
You are now presented with the inner workings of the L15A7. Note cylinder numbers and intake and exhaust valves (but you should already know that).
Notice the cam chain area and the marking that indicate top dead center (TDC) for the cylinder number indicated. The photo below shows you that I was close to cylinder #2 TDC. The line should be as close to flush (and horizontal) with the top of the head.
Now insert the 19mm socket with appropriate extension into to the perforated hole in the passenger side front wheel well to turn the crank. Make sure to only turn the crank clockwise! If you are good (read: tall), you can turn the crank and see where your marking are without help from a friend. Position to the cylinder of choice and then check that cylinder, both intake and exhaust, for clearance.
Valve Clearance (cold)
Intake 0.15－0.19 mm (0.006－0.007 in)
Exhaust 0.26－0.30 mm (0.010－0.012 in)
Remember when checking clearances, that you should feel a slight resistance and should feel a slight vibration as you slide the gauge back and fourth. This indicates that you are at the selected thickness. Take care not to bend the gauge while checking the measurements as it can lead to incorrect measurements/adjustments. For more information on doing adjustments refer to this page. Adjustments are completed by using your 100 open ended wrench and a flat head screwdriver to adjust the gap. Make sure to re-tighten the nut while holding the screw in place during adjustments!
Have fun!
After all cylinders have been checked and adjusted, reassemble in reverse order. Make sure to clean the area that the gasket will come into contact with and to put a dab of Hondabond on the cam seam (front and back) before replacing the valve cover.
Items needed to do this procedure:
*Beverage of choice (but as a safety professional, I cannot condone drinking said beverage by chemicals [engine oil]). Don't ask, don't tell!
*L15A7 engine
*Set of feeler gauges (see below for sizes)
*Tube of Hondabond (or equivalent gasket maker)
*Phillips screwdriver
*Small flathead screwdriver
*10mm open ended wrench
*19mm extended socket
*10mm extended socket
*12mm extended socket
*Socket extension (where appropriate)
*Socket wrench(es) (likely a 3/8" and a 1/2" depending on your tools)
*Pliers (needle nose and flat jaw recommended)
OPTIONAL: 12341-RB0-003 Honda Valve Cover Gasket (only needed to reassurance or if you plan on replacing it - unless the original is damaged, you should be able to reuse it)
**DISCLAIMER**: As with any DIY on any internet forum, I cannot be held responsible for omissions or errors that may contribute to you not being able to complete this job nor am I responsible for any damages caused as a result of this maintenance procedure. If you are unwilling, unable, or not very competent in maintenance, you are discouraged from performing this procedure.
The if this is your first time performing this procedure, it'll likely take you 2-3 hours to do. After you've done it once, though, it should take you not much more than an hour for tear down, measurements and adjustments, and reassembly. Also keep in mind that your vehicle will need to be "cold" (meaning at ambient temperature and the engine has not been run in 6-8 hours). Also keep in mind that your vehicle will essentially not be drivable during this procedure, so if you forgot a tool or there is an emergency, you might be boned unless you have access to another vehicle (recommended).
Onwards to tear down:
First, turn the wheels all the way to the right (as a reminder, don't turn on the car for this - you should be able to do it with some muscle). This will allow you to not have to remove the wheel and easily allow access to the crank to spin the engine to the position you need it.
Then, open the bonnet (hood). Stare in mild admiration at L15A7.
Remove the clips to the air filter and the cable going to the MAF and remove the air filter box and filter.
Disconnect the battery connections and holder bracket by using a 10mm extended socket. You will not need to completely unbolt the holder bracket since the hangers can be undone by sliding them out from underneath the battery mount. Remove battery, battery tray, and holder bracket.
Loosen clamp holding the rest of the airbox to the throttle body. Don't worry about it sliding back - Honda designed a holder of sorts to keep it from sliding back. Make sure to only loosen - do not unscrew completely.
Then remove the two 10mm bolts holding the airbox to the engine and transmission and undo the green wire holder. Carefully slide/wiggle the assembly away from the throttle body. Then remove metal vacuum tube (circled in red, out of view) away from airbox using pliers to relieve pressure off the rubber gasket. Then remove assembly from the area.
Remove the four (4) 12mm bolts from the throttle body. Take care not to look the metal brackets on the back and front side of the throttle body. Carefully push throttle body out of way.
Disconnect the two wires shown.
Remove the five (5) 12mm bolts holding the plastic manifold to the metal one. Remove metal bracket behind plastic manifold.
Then remove the two (2) 10mm bolts from behind the plastic manifold.
Remove the last 12mm bolt on the side of the plastic manifold and the vacuum tube from the valve cover. There is also a tube connected to the backside of the plastic manifold that will need to be undone from a holding bracket. You do not need to remove the tube from the plastic manifold, but you can simply place over to the side.
Carefully disconnect the coil pack connectors, release the left side bracket and slide the wire assembly out of the way.
Then remove the eight (8) 10mm bolts holding the valve cover. Remove cover.
All items removed for check:
You are now presented with the inner workings of the L15A7. Note cylinder numbers and intake and exhaust valves (but you should already know that).
Notice the cam chain area and the marking that indicate top dead center (TDC) for the cylinder number indicated. The photo below shows you that I was close to cylinder #2 TDC. The line should be as close to flush (and horizontal) with the top of the head.
Now insert the 19mm socket with appropriate extension into to the perforated hole in the passenger side front wheel well to turn the crank. Make sure to only turn the crank clockwise! If you are good (read: tall), you can turn the crank and see where your marking are without help from a friend. Position to the cylinder of choice and then check that cylinder, both intake and exhaust, for clearance.
Valve Clearance (cold)
Intake 0.15－0.19 mm (0.006－0.007 in)
Exhaust 0.26－0.30 mm (0.010－0.012 in)
Remember when checking clearances, that you should feel a slight resistance and should feel a slight vibration as you slide the gauge back and fourth. This indicates that you are at the selected thickness. Take care not to bend the gauge while checking the measurements as it can lead to incorrect measurements/adjustments. For more information on doing adjustments refer to this page. Adjustments are completed by using your 100 open ended wrench and a flat head screwdriver to adjust the gap. Make sure to re-tighten the nut while holding the screw in place during adjustments!
Have fun!
After all cylinders have been checked and adjusted, reassemble in reverse order. Make sure to clean the area that the gasket will come into contact with and to put a dab of Hondabond on the cam seam (front and back) before replacing the valve cover.
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