So I am seeing a lot of threads of lowered Fits, though I am not seeing any mention of Camber kits. I can honestly say I have not looked under the fit yet to check out the suspension. My 92, 93, 95 civic and del sols all needed aftermarket kits. I've looked online, but can't find any kits.

Is camber not an issue with the Fit? Is the camber actually adjustable now? Or is there just nothing available?

Now that I got my wheels, I'm itching to drop the Fit, help me out folks.

 

no they didn't.

but for camber adjustment on the fit, the front needs camber bolts and the rear needs shims. and honestly, 99% of lowered fits on this website do not have any sort of camber correcting kit

 

Can't do anything to the rear on GE's.

 

not even camber shims?

 

The rear camber of all EG generation civics was easily corrected with washers, front needed a kit.

I personally don't think a lowered car driving down the street with wheels sitting like this / \ look good.

I don't care how dumped, tucked, hard parked, hella flush you are.

 

So I've been told, something about the hub being welded on.

 

it may be nice to have a camber kit, but totally unnecessary

 

Specialty Products Company makes a great kit for '07 and '08 for the rears (I've got them on my car)...not for '09 and up
SPC Alignment - Specialty Products Co.

 

It depends how much camber you have after you are lowered... excessive camber for DD is not ideal/needed. It can cause increased tire wear and handling to suffer. Take the stock ITR for example, the stock alignment specification is -0.5 front, -0.75 rear... not saying that you can't have more aggressive camber for better cornering...

The key in suspension tuning is BALANCE.

 

Assuming you are talking about the earlier model itr, you really cant compare the 2 cars in terms of static camber specs. The itr had double wishbone front & back, which lead to a more aggressive camber curve compared to what the fit can produce. & there are usually tolerance of about +/-1 degree of oem alignment specifications anyway.

 

RSX 2002-2004 Factory Specs
F Camber 0.0+/-.75
F Caster 1.5 +/- 1.0
F TOE .0.+/-.24 Deg
R Camber -.75+/-.75

Lets say the Type-S have -0.5 more, so at most the optimal should still be -0.5 to -1.25 for the front.

Yea, i'm just saying, more isn't always better.

 

Ok Im confused what you mean by optimal? Because when I autox my em2, which has the same suspension design as the RSX, I am running a minimum of -2* of camber up front & -1.5 in the rear, with -.7* of toe out all around, & max caster (on street tires). I know that static camber setting depend on the track/course, natural frequency (that dictates the camber curve) & tire compound, but idk of anybody that races an RSX that would say -1.25* of camber in the front is optimal. & Im not talking about track only vehicles.

Im not trying to argue with you, but one should not be misleading others in the thought that more camber is unnecessary. Yes minimizing camber will minimize tire wear to an extent, but if someone reads that & makes an alignment shop zero their camber, they will end up with a squirmy car when they give a steering input. The truth is you should be telling people to zero their toe not their camber settings.

 

Someone on top were saying, "no you don't need camber kit."
I was saying, that's not true, because if he slammed his car with -3* camber, is pretty bad for DD... In my previous post, i said is ok to not use a camber kit as long as is within -0.75 to -1.25 because that's what's the stock RSX runs anyway. I didn't suggest him to running zero camber.

Like you said, you run 2 degree camber up front for Autox, but we don't Autox everyday in the Fit, therefore 2 degree camber is certainly not quite suitable for DD... therefore, i suggested, the "optimal" camber settings which is between -0.5 to -1.25, which is more or less like the RSX Type-S' stock setting... which is similar to the Fit's suspension design...

So... if a person lowered his/her car, and have -1 degree camber, then he could get away without a camber kit. But if he slammed his car and have -3 degree camber, then he gotta get a camber kit.

That's what i'm saying.

 

I'm looking at the Mugen Sport suspension, drop appears to be .8"ish so I think I should be good without, after I fix the toe of course

 

im slammed and after 40k miles, my tires look fine

 

camber doesnt matter, toe wears tires prematurely

 

May be fine for you or "look" fine for you, but it is a fact that EXCESSIVE camber WILL case added tire wear. So stop spreading false information. Toe obviously will eat up your tires much faster than camber.

Anyhow, just saying. Anything more than 2 degree camber, best get a camber kit.

 

good luck with that

 

Then the discussion becomes what is excessive.

solbrothers is right. Toe is the bigger enemy. 1-3 degrees of camber.. not so much depending on ride height and what the effective angles are during whatever style of driving the car actually sees.

Under/Over inflation will do more to wear down or damage your tires than camber in many cases.

But there is nothing wrong with getting your camber dialed in .