dang camber in front is agressive... i probably won't add as much... what is the height you're lowered?

You should have it corner balanced when you swap the K!!! but if you don't lift any wheels it should be close to optimal

 

Yeah i was planning on corner balancing. The weight of the K indifference from the L, i really dont think it will be that bad. Im also removing the entire A/C system so this should help out TONS! also sense most of the cage weight is in the rear this will help out a ton also. I can move things to the rear or other locations as needed. MER in cresson tx (guys who did my cage) are willing to corner balance it for me. they have a really nice in ground scale (scales). I cant really tell you exact ride height inches but i did measure from ground to side jack points and its 5". My front control arms are perfectly parallel to the ground.

 

nice! argh... can't wait for summer to come so i can work on my fit...

 

So, what's the trick with keeping the axles from popping out? Get a buddy to hold them in place?

Serious question.

 

I used bungy cables/ cords. attached from the wheel stuf to the inside of the fender. not lining.

 

^x2
10 char

 

Yep, bungee cords will do the trick. To get it back in & after worrying about how many people had trouble, spent many frustrating hours, removed the boot, etc. I thought my best bet would be to apply some constant pressure to the axle to encourage it to go in once aligned. To achieve this, I used a ratchet strap around the knuckle and hooked the other end somewhere straight across the car near the opposite lower control arm mounts to get a nice, straight pull in the direction I wanted. I also had to remove a fastener in the plastic splash tray so the strap could take a straighter path. With snug but not extreme tension and some gentle rotation back and forth, it popped in uneventfully in about 20 minutes and I didn't get tired pushing and hoping, didn't remove the CV boot, no zip-tie dilemma.

Ratchet straps to the rescue--definitely not the first time; these things are really handy to have around. Some day, I'll get a real come-along.

Joel

PS: To the coil over track rat, you're chasing a much different goal but it sounds like you're enjoying yourself.

 

this one?

1. Track Rat 64 up, 11 down
A race car of questionable appearance. Money is spent on safety gear, brake pads and tires rather than cosmetic repairs giving the car the look of a common beater.


or this one... LOL

4. TRACK RAT 3 up, 34 down
a black or ghetto female that always has the nappyest track!!!!!!! and makes any nigga wanna buy her a comb! lol
ewwwwww that bitch got a nappy head!!! oh thats just a track rat

 

I want to be number 2

 

Wait does this mean that GD3 springs work on our GE8's? I still have a set of Skunk2 lowering springs that I used on a GD3 I had 2 years go that I tracked succesfully with Cusco and T1R chassis bracing and Progress rear sway bar, I was contemplating on if they worked on the GE8 I just bought.

 

^^Don't know, ntt. I haven't made this mod yet. And I am the opposite of an expert on this subject.

 

NP man, but the following posts said "YES" so I'm double checking. If so, free mods for me!

 

i had both swift springs and coilovers on my first fit. progress RSB is a must.

i loved the swifts, great balance. i should have left it alone at the swift springs.

i also liked the coilovers, but i settled on spring rates and damping too stiff for what i needed, so didn't enjoy them as much as i should have. lesson leaned, but if you want a great set of coilovers at value pricing, AMR is a good choice. currently using their coilovers on my track/DD other car and i'm really happy with them. i've had some stupidly pricey coilovers in the past and i actually prefer the AMR set. <$1500 USD.

in the end, if you want set-and-forget, you will love the swifts. i recommend you get them installed at the same time you're getting an alignment with 0/0 toe all around, presto you're done. no-brainer.

coilovers really aren't that tough to figure out, so don't be shy. after a little initial setup, you only have to adjust your damper settings as you like. a set from AMR will have valving matched to your spring rates and driving needs. from a technical standpoint, matched coilovers are far superior to lowering springs on stock dampers. the extra step to set the ride height. 0/0 toe all around with the alignment, done.

 

I have always liked Swift springs on my Fit but since I removed the rear seats the rear of the car was sitting very high.. It was great for improving traction out of the hole from a dead stop but the change was bad enough to cause the front lip to sit much lower making it difficult to drive far at all with out having it contact the ground and cause the front bumper to pull loose from one or the other fender...I ordered a set of Buddy Club N+ coilovers and when replacing tires to 205 50 16's I had to go ahead and get wheels wheels that wouldn't cause the tire to get cut to pieces on the fender wells because of the offset and width of the wheels I had on the car... So far I have only mounted the rear dampers and springs. It is lower then with Swifts but I was able to raise the rear a little to prevent the side walls from scraping as much but with the Kosei 6 1/2" X16" w/45 mm offset and weigh only 12.8 lbs there is a very prominent improvement in handling, though with the dampers still set in the firmest setting to help with keeping the fender and tire from making tire contact with the other wheels installed It rides a little rough....I like having the wheels an tires sitting well inside the wheel wells and not putting excessive stress on the lug nuts, hubs, axles and suspension......With the lighter weight and more negative offset of the wheels there is less torque steer when cornering or making lane changes under and steering while on the throttle.... The steering feels much lighter and precise plus I won't be coating the car with dirt and sand when driving on the dirt roads and up my driveway... I will have some super sticky performance tires mounted of my Enkei RPF1s for when I want to get more power to the ground and experience more lateral G force... The Wal-Mart Goodyear Eagle Authority tires I got a decent deal on are quiet, have great traction wet or dry and 50,000 mile warranty.... I think the Buddy Club dampers and springs will allow me to dial in the height, damping and spring preload to just about any wheel tire combination and driving style I want... I am sacrificing some suspension travel but it doesn't feel nearly as rough as I was anticipating..It feel much more comfortable than a stock Fit with 40 lbs of air pressure in the tires... I seem to be getting better fuel mileage also.

 

Going OT for a sec: Coyote, how much you figure those rear seats weigh (they seem hugely heavy to me)? Was removing them just a matter of unbolting? Does the weight distribution without the rear seats make the handling all weird, like some sort of El Camino with an empty bed?

I like the idea of reducing weight . . . but I'm still running stock suspension, alignment and tire sizes.

 

where did you get the springs from?

 

I believe Lyons Night Road said the seats in his GE weighed 155Lbs... I had Swift springs on it at the time I pulled the seats and the rear of the car raised so much the front lip was closer to the ground... The Swift springs bring the front of the GD3 cars lower than they do on GE cars that sit level with them...I thought that it felt weird without the seats because it would dance around when rounding a curve with bumps but I found out that the hose on the air shocks had broken and rendered the shocks useless... With the new Buddy Club dampers and springs on the rear it now feels real good.... If I had a GE I would be very happy with stock shocks and Swift springs... I got the Buddy Club N+ coil overs from the group buy at Bean Garage for about $950...I balked at doing coil overs for a long time due to the cost and was thinking about using adjustable Tokico shocks and struts with the Swift springs... I found out that on the group sale I could pay about the same or a little more for the C/Os and that they were better able to allow me to set my car up the way I want to . Oh I forgot, the seats do just unbolt. You can feel that your car accelerates better without them but the rear end sits up higher but no handling issues with stock shocks.. If anything there is less understeer. +

 

^^I figured there'd be less understeer — maybe unpleasntly so.


Thanks!

 

DITTO! I know this from experience. Pulled the back seats out and the car became way too nervous mid-corner and through transitions. I never spun my Fit on track before, but once i pulled the seats it happened twice, each at a different event and different surface (smoot/uniform, and semi-loose).

Seats went back in and i also leave the spare in to further balance the car.

As for suspension, i'm on Bilstein PSS coilovers. No setup, as they've done it for you. Best choice i think for a comfy yet capable setup. My pelvis isn't dust from the sub-par back roads, but it stiffens up when you push the car through corners

 

I plan on getting Bilstein PSS coils in the next few months and getting corner weighted without the rear seats in the car and with me in the driver seat; that should correct any weight distribution issues by trying to get weight as near to 60/40 with 50/50 cross and she should handle marvelously!